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About citizenchan

  1. I do not know what condition these struts are in. I've owned them since about 2008, but they came as extras for a car I bought and I've had them in storage since. At this point I just want to get rid of them, so I am taking offers. I kept them upright at all times. I was told they were usable, and were only replaced with bilsteins. But I can only go by what I was told, and they've sat for 4 years now. All I know about them is what they say on the side. The front inserts have a number that indicates they are the KYB GR-2. KYB 363013 The rears indicate that they are Gas-A-Just KYB KG5540 Email me at [email protected] if you would like more info. Or if you PM me, please post here that you did so I get the notification. Thanks!
  2. Well, sorta. THis guy found a BMW hovercar prop from Back to the Future and restored it. http://jalopnik.com/5067674/man-restores-griff-tannens-hover-bmw-from-back-to-the-future-2
  3. I'm in Fremont, but I am willing to bring the car to you. Thanks for the responses.
  4. Thanks for the response. It's a 318i Stock motor with all FI parts and Ljet. It's a real mess with the wiring. Today, I was thinking I should suck it up and go in there. I can't be overwhelmed anymore and so I started by tracing the lines from the battery (in the trunk) to starter and on. Turns out it was a bad/corroded/grimy connector on the starter. I tweaked it and got it running again. While I fixed this particular issue, it would still be great to get some expert coaching when/if you, or any one else, is free. Thanks,
  5. So, I've had several wiring woes lately. The PO that did the swap just didn't do everything with great polish, loose connectors have been my bane for weeks. My car sat for 3 weeks undriveable because of a shoddy connection between the fuel pump and ignition. I was too newbie to see it, or realize it was wired without a relay...? Anyway,I drove the car home thursday afternoon, parked it. And now I'm not able to start it. It doesn't even appear to have power, no lights, nothing. Also, no switches were left on. I tried jumping it to no avail. I would like to know if an 02er in the bay area would like to spend a day helping me sort out the problem and some of my wiring? I'm not knowledgeable with electrical curcuits, but I can, and want to, learn - just need a mentor. I want to solve this once and for all, and if you teach me to fish, then the rest I could gladly handle. I'm not looking for freebies, we can discuss what would make it worth it for you. I would also pick you up, give you gas money, or tow the car to your garage/shop if you don't want to hassle. I'm positive it's a lose connection somewhere, I'm just too clueless to figure it all out (it's kind of a birdsnest, to me at least). Please let me know, email at [email protected] or leave your info and I'll contact you. Thanks a bunch.
  6. Thanks Mike. yeah, I've got the later single pump but the older LJetronic computer. I'm curious to know if you think it would cause any driveability issues having the motronic (later) fuel relay - which doesn't have an input signal from the fuel system, or if I really do need the relay for the older 84 that has the extra input. On the motronic, fuel was managed by the ecu. In the Jetronic, fuel was a separate system, and the relay had input for that. So long as my fuel is hitting the pressure regulator at a high enough rate to achieve pressure in the fuel rail, I shouldn't need any other control over the fuel delivery. Correct? If so, I am thinking that the older relay was necessary solely because it had two pumps that had a special relationship that needed to be governed i.e. the electric undercar pump could be easily varied by the fuel system. If that's true, then the single pump is all-in-one and I should be fine, correct? Or do I still need a fuel system signal going regardless? Thanks for your help.
  7. A couple members helped me narrow down my fuel supply issue to the relay (I thought it was the pump and I was wrong, big surprise.. hah), and I found that the relay I have is for the motronic. I have a l-Jetronic from an 84, but a pump from the 90 318is. So my question is: Should I try to wire up the appropriate relay, or does it really not matter that much? The L-Jet relay has two + voltage to two pumps - I have one. It also has an additional input from the fuel regulating system, which is separate from the engine management system in the LJet. Plus the computer ground, ground to body, and ignition. The motronic only has one power out to the pump, which is ok since I have the later pump. But it's got the other three - the computer ground, ground to body, and ignition. I am thinking the input from the fuel system somehow helps to regulate supply or whatever as the engine runs. Would this relay be a possible cause of some driveability issues? Thanks for the help everyone.
  8. PO set the pump up on an inline fuse and relay. All connections seem tight. I am getting power to the fuel pump it looks like. Put my multimeter on 20 - Vdc and got 12.x. I'm a novice with electricity, being shocked a couple times doesn't make me an expert heh. So, this means that on a source up to 20 volts, I was getting 12 volts correct? So, does it sound like a failing/whirring fuel pump would finally die right when the car was in a tight turn? That seems odd to me - why would the turn make the difference? I can see how inertia caused the fuel to move and possibly add or reduce the stress on the pump, but would that cause it to just go caput like that? I imagine it would still pump, just not strong enough. I did have the issue once before, exact same thing with the car losing gas, except when I straightened out I got power back - that was just Monday, and I drove the car four times since, to have it die and stay dead yesterday. What are your thoughts. Thanks for your help.
  9. Search really does work here too. Not like most forums where you find someone with a legitimate question and a ton of flamers. People actually help, and the archives have a wealth of info. Yes, take pics and keep a log of some sort.
  10. Collector car insurance in cali is hard to get if you plan to drive the car much. The max is something like 3000 miles a year or something, you also need to get the car looked at or appraised or something, and have it pass some sort of rudimentary verification that it is in "Historic condition.
  11. Awesome guys. Thanks for the help. I'll see about it in a few hours and be back.
  12. Distro looks good. I thought maybe it was a fuse, but all the fuses are intact and all the lights work. All the dash guages power on. I don't hear a thing from the fuel pump. So, now I am looking at tracing the wires from the ignition all the way to the pump I think. Sheesh, what a headache. Is there any trick I can use?
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