Genuine Schrick 292 v/s IE billet cam?

[ceylove]

I've read posts here specifically calling out "genuine schrick" when describing cams. I've got an IE 292 billet cam that worked for my budget where a genuine Schrick 292 didn't. Once in the motor and running, shouldn't these perform the same? If not why? Please enlighten me! Thanks.

[ceylove]

Well, no replies so either there's no difference or no one wants to knock IE! I can't blame anyone as everyone at IE has been nothing but helpful, actually beyond good customer service. So, for now I'll enjoy the cam. Just curious why someone would spend the extreame $$ for a genuine Schrick when a copy is gets the job done. As I mail order correct metric carriage bolts to assemble my chrome bumpers when hardware store SAE bolts are available & less expensive.... for a part no one will ever see I understand.....the joy of doing something right is it's own reward.

[Mich]

What is this new billet cam? Sorry, but i from the details in IE website i couldn't understand much in this technical english. I guess it's different from the regrind, because i've heard that regrind cams goes back almost to stock specs after 15-20 k miles. If somebody can explain it easier to me it would be great...

[FB73tii]

I am no cam expert but gather there is quite a bit to performance camshaft design beyond lift and duration specs. Because of the dynamics involved, even what seem to be "minor" variations in design may have significant effects. It would be interesting to Dyno a set of "similar" cams and see the difference, but of course it depends on the application, engine characteristics and the complete valve train design.

I invested in a Schrick 336 for my new engine build because they are a known quantity. I recently talked to someone who designed a cam with more lift than the 336, but different characteristics so it is not as harsh on the valve train. Said to be good for a measurable increase in HP. I am also doing a lot of research on valve springs as well. Schrick springs are tried and true, VAC springs are "similar" and less expensive, Isky has some that will work, and there are some NASCAR "beehive-style" springs that may work and could reduce valve train stress. And of course there are pneumatic springs (F1 style), but I don't have the $$$ to have them designed for an M10.

Here are a few articles that may be of interest:

Basic Camshaft Article

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0701_camshaft_design_science/index.html

More Detailed Camshaft Article

http://chevyhighperformance.automotive.com/117013/0911chp-isky-racing-camshaft-design-secrets/index.html

Technical Camshaft Article

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Cam_Design.html

Fred

'74tii

[TobyB]

A curve's a curve- you could be unscrupulous and have the

292 duplicated onto your blank, or have the base circle

reduced a bit and ground onto your stock cam.

There is a significant bit of science in cam design, but you can't hide it-

if you put the cam into a head, put a rocker and a valve in there,

and roll it over, it's on display for the world to see.

I have used Delta regrinds for years (www.deltacamshaft.com)

since they were local and inexpensive.

Tax and shipping on a new Schrick, and decent performance...

t

[jgerock]

Do your homework before purchasing any critical engine component. I would stick with a major name brand.

[rover1]

i use a 292 from top end performance that is a regrind with Dr. Shrick valve springs and titanium spring retainers weber dcoe's etc. etc. i think i payed like $149 for the machine service. its bin a pretty good cam 10.000 miles later. i think its on par with a Dr. Shrick and it was about $500 less. if i could afford a Dr. Shrick i would probably buy one.

[inkatouring]

Most likely there is little or no difference. People have been running a million different cam shafts in a million different engines for half a million years, mostly with not problems. The IE cam is "new billet", so it is not re-ground, which it could be argued is inferior to new billet -- but there are plenty of performance regrinds out there working fine. Is the curve the same or at least equally as usable as a Schrick? Probably. But until there is a track record, your going in a slight unknown area. Schrick certainly has a track record -- and you pay for it.

Bottom line is no one (in their right mind) builds a motor with every optimal, know quantity part. There are financial compromises throughout the process. Where do you want those to be? Is this a "risk" worth taking in your budget? My guess is that the answer is Yes, it is worth saving a few bucks here. But I went with a schrick 304 in my motor....

[jgerock]

Bottom line is no one (in their right mind) builds a motor with every optimal, know quantity part. There are financial compromises throughout the process. Where do you want those to be? Is this a "risk" worth taking in your budget? My guess is that the answer is Yes, it is worth saving a few bucks here. But I went with a schrick 304 in my motor....

I agree with you when you must keep a strict budget when building an engine, but it helps to buy the best parts you can afford. For those of us who have built engines on the cheap using re-man heads, old hand-lapped valves, used rings, mis-matched pistons/rods and paid no attention to details and compression ratios, it's a tough learning experience that will not save money in the long run.

[Harv]

From what I understand, regrinds are SOMETIMES not as durable as a new billet. Also there are slight differences in timing due to different rocker arm angles because of the cut down back circle.

Cams from American suppliers are very high quality but the research may not be the same.

John

[TobyB]

Yeah, you have to regrind the profile keeping the reduced base circle in mind.

But given the choice, I'd experiment with a cam long before I

experimented with the bottom end. If a cam gives it up,

it's no big deal. Rod bolts, not so much.

And having watched the heartache of a wiped Schrick, I don't feel

too bad about regrinds- I've been 8 for 8 with them.

And all 8 haven't quite matched the cost of a new (high lift) Schrick.

And... 4 of the 8 are still in cars, and 3 more are sitting in boxes,

with matched sets of rockers, mostly because I wanted something more

out of the cam.

But if money was no object, sure, spend it- Schrick is good.

t