ceylove

TobyB-Just put on a brand new 38 Weber with stock jetting. Had tons of trouble with the electric choke staying on too long, but got that fixed. I know I need different jets, idle, mains and air correctors but can't seem to find the "right" recipie on searches on FAQ. Any magic numbers for me to try? I've got fresh motor I just rebuilt, Schrick 292 cam, stock pistons (unfortunately!)

no more problems once we put the BMW brand filter back on. Idle was set to about 800 rpm and oil p light was flickering. I brought it up to about 1000 to 1100 rpm which still doesn't sound too high, and the oil pres light went out and stays out at idle. I have no idea where the stock oil preasure sender is set at or if different makers are set at different numbers. So far so good, faster idle and stock filter. I'll pre fill it next time but still stay away from cheap filters. Thanks all for the info

(nt)

Thanks all for the feedback. It's been a fun project. I'll post a couple more interior & seat bracket fabrication pics and a motor pic that didn't get on before. BTW-on the 5 speed, not sure what rear ratio I have, but @ 3500rpm it's going 74mph, @ 4500 95mph. We checked the speedo against a new car and the 2002's actually conservative by 5mph! You can really feel the cam come on over 4000, a gentle push in the back and it rushes off to 90, 95.

TobyB-thanks! I did toss that one and I'll check my op to see how it compares to your numbers.

Thanks! that was fast!

First, I gotta say, I love Ceylon as a color for these cars! I get asked all the time, or told, "Hey, that was never a BMW color, isn't it a bit Cadillac Pimpy Gold?" Yes, it was a correct color, mostly in Europe but it's on the BMW 2002 color chart. Well, we got the car back from Ansite restorations 2-days before the Bimmerfest. Jim Ansite, amazing mechanic, fabricator, motor builder, etc saved the worst for last-fabricating custom seat brackets for the Recaro's that would allow full movement. These seats are narrower than the stock ones and to make it worse the 4-locating holes in the seat bottoms where the brackets would be attached were not square. That and mounting the rear bumper, a Euro chrome conversion for my 76' squarie. Jim replaced all the suspension, brakes, driveline, rebuilt the motor and re-did the 5-speed conversion someone else had screwed up. No comment on that! I bought it with a "good used motor" that was the worst smoker I've ever seen, but only after I did the first oil change. Must have loosened up! Jim was going to just try a fresh valve job but after we did that the leak down test still showed 78% leakage so we knew the motor needed to be rebuilt. 1.5 hours is all he took to pull the motor (I was there watching in amazement!) mount it to his stand and strip it to the block, crank and pistons, wrapped up in bags and sent me off to the machine shop. Where's all the drama on a motor rebuild? Hour and a half!, Machine shop cleaned everything, checked tolerances, did their thing on the crank, bores, etc and I had it back in 3 days, bottom end assembled, new bearings, seals, etc. Jim specifically asked the machine shop NOT to paint the block. That's where he gets into the details. He wire brushed it, in every nook and cranny to bare metal before painting the block and pan so I can enjoy the look of a nicely painted motor for more than a week of driving. We still have to do some welding and repair on trunk lock, someone (I'm being very nice here ) drilled out the lock and none of us noticed the hole was larger than it should have been until after painting. And the front bumper needs to be installed, valance cut, then some touch up paint, etc. I need a larger brake master cylinder. We went larger on the brakes but not the master and the pedal travel is too long. Some of the goodies we put in: 292 Schrick, -new valves, dual springs, keepers, guides, seals, etc all new IE-SS header to tail pipe (complete with a full day's cutting, re-welding, bending, etc to get it to fit. tii struts new wheel bearings all around E-12 brakes with vented discs 250mm Turbo drums w/19mm cylinders Bilstein HD's all around H&R lowering springs New urathane bushings everywhere Ft & rear big sways F/R that came apple green, re-powder-coated matt black new tii alloys, lug nuts Vredestein tires NOS tii dash clock replaced dash with like new used dash new carpet dynamatt on firewall, tunnel, floors, all of interior New chromed Euro bumpers front and rear, body holes filled during painting 5-speed Leather/black/white/Ceylon gold-hounds tooth Recaro period sport seats w/lumbar & 2 stage heaters, controls hidden 350 mm Petri sport steering wheel new rubber on door seals, windshields, etc new front windshield Motor still bedding in, only 500 miles on it, still plenty to do but I love driving this car the 300+ mile round trip from Palm Springs to LA a couple days a week. It loves to hum along at 80+. thanks for all of the support on this project. I've gotten the best parts at the best prices and super tech support on the FAQ.

My friend Matt had a great 02 T on at the Bimmerfest last weekend. He said it was a member who designed the logo and had some printed. Anyone know if still available or who to contact? I'm attaching a photo. No model release from Matt-hope it's ok. His Caribe 1600 with my old 2000CS 14" wheels looked sweet at the Fest!

Thanks-about to do the same thing on mine, plus changing both door handle locks as I got a complete set. Are door handles and locks just as easy?> Anyone have pics of the pin location that needs drilling on ignition or is it evident once inside? Thanks

Just did the 500 mile oil change on my rebuilt motor. In a hurry, ran to AutoZone and got the correct (by their chart) Fram oil filter. It was the only one listed for '69-76 BMW 2002 4Cyl. The Fram # is: PH3816. The one I took off was the BMW filter. I compared both filters before installing the new one and was satisfied they appeared the same. Started up the motor and the op light stayed on. It's a new OP sender and was functioning before the oil change. Flickering at idle, going out once revs hit 1000. Turned off the motor quickly, looked inside oil filler at valve train and had friend start it again and sure enough, no oil squirting through the valve train. The only thing that changed was the filter, so went back to the old BMW filter, started it up, and full OP again. Has anyone else had similar experience here? I did not replace my oil pump as it was working fine before, just cleaned it well, etc. What should the OP be at idle on a fresh motor? what should it be @????RPM? My OP gauge doesn't fit into the OP switch hole so I'll have to sacrifice an OP sender to make something to screw into the hole to gauge it. Any input here appreciated. Thanks BTW-motor is 2.0L E12 head, 292 Schrick cam, new dbl springs, valves, etc stock pistons, new bearings, seals, etc everywhere. Weber 32/36 carb

Hey Matt-the wheels look great! Especially after seeing your car in person, yes, the vintage steel wheel look fits your ride best! I'll keep my eyes open for some 2000CS hubcaps for you. Might want to put out a request too on the parts wanted forum. Good luck!

Thanks all! I appreciate all the comments, even the anonymous one! I'm surprised at the options and especially the sale prices sent to me. Being as it's a mostly rust free car, So CAL style, dry, except for the driver's floor. I never plan on selling my projects and eventually always do so-call it pride, vanity or whatever, if seller looked under the carpet or under the car, which I hope they would, I want it to look right. We were going to start with a cookie sheet piece of flat steel and form it close as we could before I came upon fairly good repro pieces anyway. Again, thanks for all the input-I'll follow up with pics of the competed patch!

while the motor and trans are out of the car, I took a deep breath and removed my driver's carpet and sound deadening pads. The seller installed a new carpet kit before I took delivery, and with everything glued down I hadn't wanted to pull it all up. From under the car, however, it looked pretty bad. The entire driver's floor from beginning of seat rails North to the accelerator pedal attachment point is rusty, some places all the way through. The photo doesn't look too bad, but there's a 6 inch tear and it's so thin you can push your finger through. Mobile tradition tells me BMW never made repair panels for this. I found one at Jamic UK for 78 Bp or $120 + shipping. My first thought was to just use sheet steel but it's actually got quite a lot of contours, depressions and curves up all around. Cutting one out of a parts car led me to the common response of, "if I had good floors, it wouldn't be a parts car" which makes sense. Any of you know another source other than Jamic and spending $120? 2002Ad quoted me about $200 for one they have made up, but it takes a couple of weeks and my motor's ready to go in. Thanks

I agree, it's a nightmare in Calif.Even if the smog parts are all there and semi working it's iffy to pass. I've heard of people with 76's getting a 75 or older title from a junk parts car and making a new vin plate, but mmmmm...is that legal? My titled 75' was built Sept 75 so technically it's a 76 but it was titled a 75' long ago. I would have passed on it, however if I had to deal with the smog. BTW all my smog stuff was long taken off and tossed. Good luck, the car looks nice!

Funny you say that, I have a Bilstein radio which I got in a package deal with my Bosch tires....

Have you considered mounting the unsightly and bulky take up spool on the underside (trunk side) of the parcel shelf like modern cars do? The view from the top of the parcel shelf would be just a slit rather than that big lump. You'd need a piece of hardware with a slot in it to pass the belt webbing through and over but it would still be as strong, I believe. I'm working on that for my rear retractable 3-point belts, still away off, however.

Dave Varco @ Aardvark Racing really took good care of me in the brake dept and offered plenty of tech support on the install. http://2002parts.com/html/front_disc_kits.html

Anyone out there installed an IE SS exhaust and have it just "bolt on"? I've got '75, '76 center exhaust. I have their and down pipe too. The bend on their down pipe is different than stock and where it bends to head towards the back of the car it's hitting the underside of the car. It will not bolt up to the header without hammering in my floot an inch or two. IE has been helpful on the phone and tells me it should fit but the bends just don't seem right. My solution is to cut it at the incorrect bends, bend it and re-weld it which I can do but it's a lot of time. I've gotten a lot of parts from IE and they continue to be helpful and a great source of info, but this exhaust has been a bear!