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ceylove

Solex
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Everything posted by ceylove

  1. I send all mine out to Centrex in So California. I'll post before/after pics. They split the calipers, cad2 plate them, install new seals, pistons, pads, etc and they come out like new. They have our calipers on the shelf ready to go in exchange for your rebuildable cores. I don't have a price for you, it was part of a trade for services I did but it's way reasonable and you get parts as good as new. Talk to them and see what they say: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_brands/centric.html
  2. I've been wondering same question. Here's my favorite strut bar photo. Herbert Reiter's Factory tii Rally car-featured in Bimmer 04/05.
  3. Thanks GL-I've got some business with IE this week and will ask them on my visit. They have always had good info and been very helpful with questions.
  4. I need a 2L motor for my 75' 02. One known to be a good solid runner, non smoker, etc. No shipping, I can pick up anywhere from San Diego to San Francisco and anywhere in between. The "good used" motor that came with my car smokes so bad it's barely drivable. It had an OK compression test but a leak down test shows 50-78% cylinder leakage across the board and it smokes something fierce. The motor I'm looking for will have to pass a leak down test. Thanks
  5. Hi Brian-I just emailed you. I'll take it if still available. I'm local and can pick up.
  6. Can anyone recommend a competent and fair machine shop in the greater LA, Glendale, Pasadena Burbank area? I need some head work done and I want to work with someone locally I can talk to one on one. Also, anyone who wants to share with me what the average costs are to do a clean-up cut on a head, and/or a full valve job I'd appreciate it. Thanks
  7. Hi Larry-yes the shifter feel solid, but I agree, the support doesn't look like other set ups I've seen. Also the shop that did the conversion left the shifter shaft too long so the gear shift and shift pattern it tilted too forward. They installed, (without my request) a short shift kit, which is fine, but the angle of shift pattern bugs me. I'll take it apart, cut the shaft, taking off a bit and re weld it. At that point I'll get a good look at the shifter support and see what's up. Thanks for the input
  8. Thanks All and I think TobyB has pegged it-I drove about 10-15 minutes with the bolt out-enough to get home and swap cars. The noise and vibration driving it minus one bolt was BAD. Probably enough to distort the guibo where it was no longer attached. There was only contact in that spot. I'll put some paint on the grazed spot and check it after driving. I suspect now that the bolt's been replaced it's not longer hitting the shaft. You guys are awesome! Again, Thanks!
  9. do you have part #'s or application? Are these all 2002, 2002 tii? 320i? can't tell from the photos-thanks
  10. Greetings all-I think the shipping would cost as much as the wheels so I'm not shipping, I would be driving up to the san jose area but if I took 5 wheels my wife and baby would have to ride on the roof! Anyway, I double checked them again today, not a dented rim among them, even that initial first thin rim on the edge of the wheel. I shot pics an hour ago, will post momentarily.
  11. I have 5 really nice dated 10/66 steel wheels from my '66 2000CS. The offset is correct for a 2002 and the 14" diameter gives more tire choices over 13" They are very straight, no bent lips and some are still in original silver paint. They will not accept 13" steel wheel hub caps, but CS hub caps are out there and available. I have one and will post pics later today of the wheels and what hub cap would be needed. $100 for all 5-no shipping. Local pick-up only in Palm Springs, CA area. I go into LA at least 1x/week so delivery possible to Greater LA area for $25. These look good on a 2002.posting 2 photos of a Colorado with these wheels and 185/65 rubber.
  12. any of the info from the receipt available to post? Head type, cam, is everything stock or semi built up? Compression ratio, etc. I'd like to know some more info please. My "New" old '76 delivered Christmas Eve, has a junk worn out motor blowing oil down the road, into the cabin, etc. I'm looking at options....thanks
  13. Hi Robb-just emailed you re: steering cover-I'll take it. Thanks!
  14. what's the engine # and/or head type? And..when it was running, was it a smoker? I've had really good luck on used engines from FAQ'ers-not so good outside of these circles! And lastly, would you be willing to strap it to a pallet for shipping if I could have it picked up? Thanks
  15. I recently ordered this part and it's on the way to me. I notice yours doesn't have the fan attached, neither does mine. Any ideas how to mount the fan to this so it will work? I've looked at several toasted blower motors and the fan seems to be permanently fused with a brittle plastic keeper. It broke apart when attempting to remove it. I'd love input on this, as will new buyer of this item as well. Thanks
  16. With 400 miles on my 76 w/5-sp conversion, lost guibo bolt on the road. While replacing it, new bolt, lock nut, lockitie 242, etc, noticed guibo being shaved down at that bolt hole, with metal core beginning to show through. You can clearly see with a single rotation of the shaft, the guibo contacts the bottom of the shift rod and it's hardware. I guess the shop who did the conversion somehow missed this.? See photos. Any suggestions before I'm ground down to the bolt?
  17. After about 400 miles I lost a guibo bolt on the road. After inspection, the guibo where I lost the bolt is worn down through the rubber with the metal core beginning to be exposed. I replaced the bolt, with proper lock nut AND locktite 242 blue just to be sure but I know now it did not fall out randomly. Rotating the drive shaft from under the car by hand to get at the other bolts, there is resistance at one spot, and the guibo is contacting the shift rod and hardware at the top of the tunnel. You can clearly see if you watch through one rotation, it binds. I guess the shop doing the work somehow missed this. Any suggestions? I don't believe I can move the shifter rod and linkage up into the tunnel any more, it's "there" . Thanks
  18. Thanks all for the great tips and help. This head was "fresh" from the machine shop, still with the purple dye around the seats, etc but I have no idea what machine shop or what year? so I checked it for thickness and warpage. I was unable to slide a .002 feeler between the straight edge and surface of the head, so I think I'm OK there. Yes, I did not know about the clips and luckily found out about them before I started "drifting" Not having the fancy spring compression tool that compress all at once, I made a tool to rotate the cam-an aluminum bar drilled to accept 2 bolts to go into the cam gear hub. Once the clips were off the rocker shafts-tap tap with a 5/8 wooden dowel, cut to different lengths. I used shorter ones at first and longer ones as needed, gently rotating the cam as needed to ease off the rocker faces as I went. Once the rocker shafts were out, of course the cam came out almost on it's own. Again, the FAQ talked me down on this one, Thanks a bunch!
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