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ceylove

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Everything posted by ceylove

  1. ceylove
    I've only had my car for 400 miles from the restorer, and lost a guibo bolt yesterday on the road. It appears the guibo cinched up with coffee can nuts, ie all different, old and used, some locking, some regular, etc. I'm replacing all today but only have the nylon not metal lock nuts so will locktite 242 as extra insurance.
  2. ceylove
    I was given a "rebuilt" head as a band aid fix. I don't trust that the guides, valve seals, are right or still fresh, it's been on the shelf a long time and also, I was told everything else in the head was put back in "as is" I'd like to get a good look at the seats, valves, springs, etc and maybe have more work done on it. I've loosened the valve adjustment nuts and removed the locking plate at the end of the head but still the rocker shafts are tight in the head. I've buddged them a bit tapping on the end of the shaft that protrudes but once it's flush my next move would be a drift pin same size as OD of the shaft. I don't want to damage things, the shafts usually come out easier than this on other motors. Any tips?
  3. ceylove
    Ceylove here-Well, did leakdown test yesterday and the motor is just plain worn out. Presented to seller as "good running used motor" he did a compression test and was satisfied. I've never liked compression tests only as diagonistic tool. The leakdown, which we did on 2X for verification, showed #1 cylinder=16% leakage, #2-78%, #3-70%, #4-55%. So, basically I'm running on a one cylinder motor! most of the air escaping through the bottom end, but oil smoke on decell tells me there's plenty swimming by the valve seals and guides, or lack of them. I was given a rebuilt head as a band aid fix. I'll put it on and see what happens. I'll drive it till it fails, then start fresh and build the good motor I've always wanted. BTW -we did a compression test as well while we were doing the leak down test and got: 160-135-150-160 which the seller thought was fantastic! He said anything over 120 he considers a good motor, but I fear he's missing the point it's not just the highest number here that matter but the variance between cylinders-? I'm open to other POV if I've got all this wrong-Thanks
  4. ceylove
    Just did body work and paint on my 76' and coming from a '69 roundie, I had to lose the awkward US bumpers. Even though I know in a fender bender they actually will protect the car. Anyway, the Euro chrome bumpers going on soon as the last parts come together. I'll install the rear bumper first and go front bumperless for a bit, so I went ahead and just filled in the huge gaping '74-'76 front valence openings when I did the body work. Yes, it will be tricky cutting the slots for the front brackets on fresh paint, but there's enough touch ups to be done anyway I 'm not worried. The rear looks terrible without bumpers, the front look I kind of like...for awhile.
  5. ceylove
    Just did body work and paint on my 76' and coming from a '69 roundie, I had to lose the awkward US bumpers. Even though I know in a fender bender they actually will protect the car. Anyway, the Euro chrome bumpers going on soon as the last parts come together. I'll install the rear bumper first and go front bumperless for a bit, so I went ahead and just filled in the huge gaping '74-'76 front valence openings when I did the body work. Yes, it will be tricky cutting the slots for the front brackets on fresh paint, but there's enough touch ups to be done anyway I 'm not worried. The rear looks terrible without bumpers, the front look I kind of like...for awhile.
  6. ceylove
    Guess I should have said "no more budget till I recover "-in last few weeks I painted the car, did interior, suspension, brakes, etc. Just took delivery of the car Christmas Eve- seller represented motor & mechanicals as good used & driveable. It's proving not to be the case -I'm at the beginning of a long term project. And...No-not expecting anything for free! Eventually-after I replace everything on the tired worn out car it will a good driver
  7. ceylove
    Thanks for input. I just drove it 95 miles at about 75 (3800RPM-I have a 5 sp) and it just got worse and worse. I need to do a leak down test in the next few days, but for now still driving it. Running well, not over heating, just keeping an eye on oil consumption.
  8. ceylove
    Well, so far put 400 miles on my "new" '75 with it's used -no history available motor. All the smog stuff removed, no air pump, etc. After rebuilding the distributor (vacumme advance was bad, weights frozen at full advance, swapping carb, etc we've finally got it running well-then the smoke started. it's really bad on deceleration-full on blue oil smoke. Hate to ask the obvious, but do I need valve guides or to rebuild the head? No budget for this now, but need to drive it. Tips on locating a good used head to get by on? Thanks
  9. ceylove
    Thanks all for the general thumbs up! The car was at 2002 AD in the pics. They did the tear down prior to painting, a 5-speed conversion and re-assembly after paint. They didn't do the paint or body work, just mechanical & some trim. 2002AD got it running, I'll be doing the fine tuning, fettle-work that we all know takes time. The car will get chrome bumpers in the next few months, just amassing the parts now. We're after a more or less authentic '75-'76 Euro spec car. After the bumpers, I'll do brake upgrade w/tii struts, suspension adding a bit of negative camber, and lastly motor work. I loved the DCOE Weber set up my 2000CS had, so FAR down the road, cam, carbs, exhaust.....$$$ Oh-left out the embarrassing part-One Day did the body work and paint-but it was at their shop 60 days with me policing the process and the outcome is OK for a driver.
  10. ceylove
    My '76 CEYLON back from painter & getting ready for the road and Euro bumpers. late bumper impact absorber holes will be covered by the chrome bumper so I left them-not the best way to do it, but I put $ into bodywork that will actually show. At least now I have a 3-hot-dog warming station...or a place to store 3-maple bars.
  11. ceylove
    Thanks CD Diesel-the paint is Ceylon-not correct for a 76' but I really like the color and rarely see a Ceylon car at the shows. I think it was offered 'for 73-'75. I'm in the process of converting to chrome Euro bumpers and still putting together parts. For the time being, I'm running bumperless with filled in front valence. I'll duplicate the factory cut outs for the front brackets when the time comes.
  12. ceylove
    I got very lucky on Craigs list 3 years ago and got a good used M10 for $200. It came from a guys car that had been wrecked but motor still good. A father and son family shop who were 2002 nuts. I know I took a chance but the motor was promised to have been a strong runner before the crash and I drove the wheels off my car with that motor the past 3 years never skipping a beat. Sometimes things work out! Good luck!
  13. ceylove
    I got very lucky on Craigs list 3 years ago and got a good used M10 for $200. It came from a guys car that had been wrecked but motor still good. A father and son family shop who were 2002 nuts. I know I took a chance but the motor was promised to have been a strong runner before the crash and I drove the wheels off my car with that motor the past 3 years never skipping a beat. Sometimes things work out! Good luck!
  14. ceylove
    I followed what turned out to be the carb return line up to the front of the car. The last person to work on it (who shall remain nameless!) terminated it under the battery and plugged it with a screw, not quite large enough. fuel was at times leaking past the screw pooling up at the bottom of the front valance. This was probably done when the carb was switched from the original Solex to weber. The "fuel smell in cabin" archive in the FAQ had 10 possible sources for the fuel smell. I had 7 out of 10! Slowly eliminating them one by one. Thanks for all the assistance.
  15. ceylove
    Conkitchen-sorry-all the smog gear removed before I took delivery of the car. I just got all the leaks! This is just the process of getting a new old car dialed in. Usually takes me at least a year or so. Thanks for input.
  16. ceylove
    Thanks for input. BTW-I'm running a single weber downdraft not the solex. All the smog stuff has been removed, canister, air pump, etc since it's exempt from smog in CA (listed on title as a '75 not '76) If the weber does not need the return line, I can plug it. I know there's no leaks up to the hard steel line-I'll check more to try to locate the leak.
  17. ceylove
    Got my 76' fresh from the shop after being painted, 5-speed conv, and motor freshened, etc. Christmas Eve. Car never got proper shake down, but on way home, at night, of course, after filling the tank noticed big fuel leak puddling under left rear wheel, had to get home (100 miles) so pushed through to get home. My tank has 3 lines coming off of it and I'm not sure which one is fuel feed to fuel pump and which are vents. Owner's manual, service manual, etc has not helped. The leak was from the braided hose that feeds through the trunk to underside of car, over the diff, clipped to the body and finally connecting to a flared steel fuel pipe in front of the driver side drive shaft. It was rotten in several places and not clipped to body so part of it was hanging down being hit by the drive shaft u-joint. So much fuel was leaking here, I can't believe it's just the vent but other's have said the actual fuel line to carb comes out of the fuel sender through the cabin. Then there's another vent on the rubber fuel filler pipe that goes into a catch tank in the trunk, then also through the back seat into the cabin. I've replaced the braided line to the steel line but there's still fuel leaking in engine comp down low, not at fuel pump or carb. Any ideas?
  18. ceylove
    My experience same as some other posters, replaced my slave only, master was and still is fine. I drive it hard and do 300 +mile trips weekly,with lots of LA traffic stop and go and no problems. I don't give advice, what worked for me may not work for another, but, again, my motto which has worked for me is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
  19. ceylove
    Thanks. Saving my $ for struts, will wait on shocks- Cheers!
  20. ceylove

    SOLD!

    ceylove replied to Franchise's topic in Miscellaneous

    Email me: info@stuartwatson.com
  21. ceylove

    SOLD!

    ceylove replied to Franchise's topic in Miscellaneous

    Email me: info@stuartwatson.com
  22. ceylove

    SOLD!

    ceylove replied to Franchise's topic in Miscellaneous

    I'll take the turn signals and pay pal you asap. I'm in So Cal-I know you said local pickup only, but you can drop those little babies into a LG FedEx box and use my FedEx#. Easy no hassle shipment-I'll meet you half way! My car's due to be ready for Christmas, still missing Euro turn signals. Thanks, Stuart
  23. ceylove
    Used. I know I can get new for about $580 ea, but looking for used with good spindles. Thanks
  24. ceylove
    front strut housings available? Also how old are the rear bilsteins? Thanks
  25. ceylove
    (nt)
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