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ceylove

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Everything posted by ceylove

  1. ceylove
    I agree with Cd-and I just went through this with mine. Rocker shafts can't come out head on the car. I started out needing seals, then measured the valve stem width where it passes through the guides, and they were worn beyond spec and wobbled in the guides, which BTW were also worn. Again, back to Cd's comments-head needs more attention than just seals. I ended up getting new valves, guides, seals, springs, keepers and a clean up resurface and seats re-ground. Just wanted to know that at least one thing on my motor was correct. Good luck!
  2. ceylove
    Thanks! The calipers are E12. I had Centrex rebuild and cad plate them. They come back with their pads, not sure what they are. They do a really good job on them, new pistons, seals, bolts, etc.Centrex is in Southern California, a division of Stop-Tech brakes.
  3. ceylove
    Well, it's been interesting taking my stock '76 2002 into the better braking, suspension arena. Everything was so worn out, neglected, bent or broken when I got the car I thought might as well make it safer and handle a bit better. Took awhile to locate good used tii struts, found um through FAQ but if I did it again, I'd have bought new. The ones I got were painted pretty but had rust inside-enough that the new Bilstein HD's could not go all the way down. Cleaned it out, treated it and they are fine. None of the fine folks I got upgrade tech info from ever mentioned I'd need the Tii hard brake lines going from the flex lines to the E12 calipers. Stock lines are 340mm each, on Tii's one is 330mm the other is one 360mm. Had to order from Maxie-still waiting. If I knew how to search better, I'm sure there's a parts needed list for the conversion somewhere. Thanks to Dave @ Aardvark racing for the great parts and tech help as well as many FAQ'ers. Oh well, here's some pics.
  4. ceylove
    Is it ATE or other manufacture?
  5. ceylove
    Beautiful photo-and it's what I do for a living! Did you scan those? Thanks for sharing-I may make a print for my wall!
  6. ceylove
    Thanks Barry A-I was just sitting here thinking, "mmm I need one more thing to worry about!" You answered my prayers!
  7. ceylove
    What difference does it make? -Curious minds want to know.... To Tomaso's point, no matter what the number ends up being, I'm not rebuilding the motor now so it will not change any operations on my end. If I didn't find this stuff interesting, I'd just take it to the shop and say "fix-it"! My guess is it's about 9:1 or thereabouts. If it was 10:1 of higher, I'd be smarter, taller and could dance a bit better.... BTW-cam is IE billet 292
  8. ceylove
    Fresh valve job on E12 head. New valves, springs, keepers, correct 3 angle carbide cut seats, etc. Measured combustion chamber volume today=61cc. I've attached a photo of my stock grand piano pistons. Head thickness after the valve job is 5.0605" or 128.536mm. Can anyone out there take this info and come up with what my compression ratio will be after assembly? Thanks PS-BTW I'm not rebuilding the motor at this point, only rebuilding the head as a band aid to spewing oily smoke upon decel.
  9. ceylove
    Well, no replies so either there's no difference or no one wants to knock IE! I can't blame anyone as everyone at IE has been nothing but helpful, actually beyond good customer service. So, for now I'll enjoy the cam. Just curious why someone would spend the extreame $$ for a genuine Schrick when a copy is gets the job done. As I mail order correct metric carriage bolts to assemble my chrome bumpers when hardware store SAE bolts are available & less expensive.... for a part no one will ever see I understand.....the joy of doing something right is it's own reward.
  10. ceylove
    I feel your pain!~I just spent a LOT of time chasing electrical gremlins on my "new" car. It obviously spent a lot of time outside as a neglected car. My headlights, taillights, instrument lights, horn, etc were all non functioning, or sporadically functioning. We started at the fuse panel, took everything apart, removed the color coded paper and lightly sandblasted (very carefully!) the connectors, cleaned and blew it dry. It seems mice had been living in the fenders in the hollow area under the fuse panel and had chewed several inches of insulation off of several wires. There were loose or disconnected wires at the instruments themselves, and we rebuilt the tail light units. Still intermittent tail lights. It seems the light switch itself at the dash had a wire for the tail light, that was broken down to a single filament, which finally broke. All is working now, days later! It was a slow process of checking, cleaning, replacing wires and making new connections everywhere but ultimately, with good results. The process cannot be sidestepped as at least for me, it's always the 5th and last thing I try that ended up being the winner. Good luck
  11. ceylove
    I'm looking to finish my silver rocker cover to look as close to factory new as possible. I was thinking cad plating, or silver paint? Polishing would not be right, too shiny. Anyone have experience they'd like to share on this one?
  12. ceylove
    I've read posts here specifically calling out "genuine schrick" when describing cams. I've got an IE 292 billet cam that worked for my budget where a genuine Schrick 292 didn't. Once in the motor and running, shouldn't these perform the same? If not why? Please enlighten me! Thanks.
  13. ceylove
    Thanks for all the input. I think I will just drive it and see how it goes. I had zero brakes in the rear when I got the car Christmas Eve and just having them fresh and working was a revelation! Lots of changes going on at one time the next couple of weeks, probably good on the wallet to give it a fair assessment before buying more parts! Thanks again
  14. ceylove
    I've put E21 front calipers w/vented rotors on as well as 250mm drums in the rear. I'm concerned the stock 2002 master won't be able to keep up. What's the best (largest?) master cylinder I can mount to the stock booster without modifications? 76' US 2002-no smog stuff.
  15. ceylove
    sent email
  16. ceylove
    OK-getting lots of conflicting info on which way flap should point for the long hood seal. Original seal cars say should point towards the back (windshield) My photos of show cars, including the Mobile Tradition Inka tii shown at Lime Rock a couple years ago have it pointing towards the front of the car. They should know, right? Seems like seals that have been replaced, ie restored cars all seem to point forward, and older, possible original seal cars point back. I'm going to go with the pointing back and realize that even the Mobile Trad folks might get some things wrong occasionally. Few people have the luxury of a truly unmolested original car to verify such things. Thanks for the input on installation, etc.
  17. ceylove
    Hi Napes-thanks. The photos I've looked at from BMW events show the flap facing the front of the car. It makes sense to go towards the back as your car does. Here's a photo of a car at a show. So I should not do it this way>? Thanks Stuart
  18. ceylove
    I've taken apart my E12 head. My motor # has been filed off, so no idea what I've go, apart from the head. My cam has this number on it:12106100802 on it. Also at the distributor gear end the number 11. Is this the stock 264 degree cam?
  19. ceylove
    Since my rear brakes were toast I moved up to 250mm brake drums. I did '81 320i backing plates, 250mm drums, shoes and the 19mm wheel cylinder. I've had an issue with the hand brake cable. Once I swapped the backing plates, the stock 2002 hand brake cable was too short to fit. Others told me after the fact, oh, you'll need 320i hand brake cables, so I bought a new set. But the bowden tube part on them is too long and there is extra slack I don't like looping around the rear suspension area. Unless you have another suggestion, my plan is to shorten the new 320i cable and re-silver solder the ends back on, so in essence, make a custom cable that's longer than stock 2002 and shorter than 320i. Is there a better, easier way?
  20. ceylove
    thanks All. Logic told me to try to slide it through which didn't sound fun. I'll push it in as suggested, still soaping things up and use a putty knife gingerly.
  21. ceylove
    Just my experience on repaints-I had a bad to so-so same color repaint on an original '69 Colorado for close to $4k. They didn't paint the inside of the hood, didn't remove the rocker covers, missed a bunch of stuff, etc. That was 3 years ago. I really went cheap this Fall and had One-Day Auto Body do their $400 dollar job that ended up being $2k and took them 3 months and it's unbelievably crappy. Like painting over sanding dust, loose screws, washers in trunk, just horrible. So when I hear about an "OK" paint job, I'm thinking more like $5,000 doing the minimum body work that all "rust free" cars have. I think I've been cured of painting cars. I'll buy um as I want um or be willing to live with the imperfect paint and know if it drives well, I won't notice the paint after 3 months!
  22. ceylove
    I'm installing the long hood seal tomorrow-the wide one that goes across the inside of the hood to keep engine bay fumes from entering the heater intake. Is there an archive post on this or any tips? Does it require adhesive or just soap it up and pull it through the channel. Thanks in advance
  23. ceylove
    nbristow01 in Dallas-I just went through the systemic elimination of 6 fuel leaks causing bad fuel odors in the cabin. I can't seem to find the post, however to send you a link. One was the rubber filler, which was like swiss cheese, the other one was the fuel return line that runs from the tank, through the floor of the trunk, over the suspension to the left side of the car to a hard line, running up to the engine bay. If you no longer have the Solex carb, you don't need this line and it may be leaking. I capped mine at the tank.
  24. ceylove
    Thanks Fred-that's actually similar to the one in the factory workshop manual, so must be good. I appreciate the link.
  25. ceylove
    Can anyone suggest a simple valve spring compressor tool and where to get it for the M10 heads? I bought a Universal one from AutoZone, which works but is lame and seems unsafe. I seen very expensive ones that bolt to the head and compress everything at once, which for me is overkill. One at a time is fine. What's worked for you? thanks
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