Qs for the twin weber guys. Car is almost done. PIC

[mtriple]

My car is ALMOST done. I went to pick it up yesterday and unfortunately the stock alternator is not good enough. I do not plan on installing newer stereo or amps..etc so here is my first question Please pardon my nooobness I am new to this game!:

1) what is the best alternator for the job? any modifications needed? DIY?

As you can see for the pic below, No filter yet. The brake booster is soooo close to the horn which limits my options. Also, the oil dip stick it right there in the middle!

Here is what I found just looking around for filters:

Pod style

Ramflow it shows only for 48 dcoe though on top end website?

Screen pop-on style (pierce manifolds) Apparently its better than the screens that top end sells. Looks like it would block better:

So my second question is:

2) Which one do you recommend that gives me the best clearance and doesn't interfere with the oil dip stick?

Thanks.

Hamada

[Harv]

Why is the stock alt not good enough? Does it not work?

The screens totally destroy any benefit from the velocity stacks. Are these Webbers the kind that need the stacks to secure the chokes? If they are, you can get short stacks and even angled ones to tilt away from the booster. I personally would try to fit a slim K&N filter with a stub stack inside the filter. If not that, then the socks type filter in your post would be the way to go IMHO.

Also look for a Tii brake booster. that will give you a bunch more room.

John

[mtriple]

Why is the stock alt not good enough? Does it not work?

The screens totally destroy any benefit from the velocity stacks. Are these Webbers the kind that need the stacks to secure the chokes? If they are, you can get short stacks and even angled ones to tilt away from the booster. I personally would try to fit a slim K&N filter with a stub stack inside the filter. If not that, then the socks type filter in your post would be the way to go IMHO.

Also look for a Tii brake booster. that will give you a bunch more room.

John

John,

When we tested the car yesterday, we noticed the VDO going down slowly while driving the car from 13- 12 - 11 Vs. That is whats happening. It is not holding the charge. I was mistaken to think that it needs an upgraded amp. May be its something else?

The screens are a no go for sure now. I believe these are the older style webers which might have the stacks securing the chokes (I don't have the car with me) I'll see if the K&N or the sock type works I do like the sock one for some reason.

Man, I can wait to drive the car...

Hamada

[jp02ti]

I have the flat style that bolt directly to the webers themselves, and so I don't need the stacks to hold the chokes in place. I believe I got mine from Maximillian, but I also had a set much like the ramflo which also bolted directly to the carbs, no stacks required. clearance is an issue with the brake booster, but the do just fit. You may need to gently bend the dipstick out of the way. GENTLY mind.

Ideally go to a ti booster (same as the tii) and you'll get better clearance and you can fit some nicer filters on there.

I see you've gone electric fuel pump. this is not necessary, depsite what some others may tell you. I ran electric for a year or so, but then went back meachanical. much quieter and no messy pressure flow valves to worry about. call it personal choice, just remember the BMW used mechanical pumps on the ti when it came out.

regards,

Jon Poole

[Guest Anonymous]

A Tii brake booster will add clearance. I even heard that by mounting it upside down you get more. The very short K&N units will just fit and work with stubby stacks but not the horn stacks.

Down side is they don't have enough filter area to feed the engine when the throttle opens and the R's go up.

I took a very short K&N unit and took the chrome cover off and cut out a piece of K&N filter material and RTVed it in place of the chrome plate. I spanned it with a steel strap with a hole in the middle for the bolt and spanned to the edge of the filter to hold it in place. It actually had two steel straps forming a cross arched above the filter material. The front filter I just used a taller (4") filter. Both carbs have stubby stacks. Check the K&N web site for flow per sq. in and use 2 cfm/hp to see how big a filter area you need for your engine. Remember each filter is sequentialy used for a single barrel.

The dip stick I just cut off and remove the filter and use a long dipstick to measure the oil. Not careful and the crank will grind / snap off the regular dip stick if you wiggle it around to clear the filter.

Have fun

[rns7602]

Congrats on being close to completion. I went or stayed with the mechanical pump and use the ramflow filters. I want to go with the stacks as was recommended by Harv. With respect to your charging issues, check your battery cable. I see the OEM cable in the shot, I had similar problems and had to move to a heavier gauge cable. This might be the cause? Good luck.

[mtriple]

Thank you gentlemen for the input. Looks like I have a little homework to do. I emailed the shop since he is a bit far from my house, but the filter/dipstick issues are things that I can probably tinker with myself. I think my main issue now is to see whats happening with losing charge issue.

Stock alt

MSD 6A

no high power stereo/amp

The negative battery cable is actually a few months old. The + seemed in good shape last time I looked.

TIA

Hamada

[bigjim5551212]

You could remove the stacks and run 2.5" filters. We carry those in stock. The socks on the horns are good and compressable. the mesh screens will cut air flow.

[vic74]

Hey Hamada,

it's looking good man can't wait to see it. let me know when you get it back.

Victor

[dapbmw]

use a dbilas intake manifold, the manifold itself is angled so it clears the stock booster even with long air horns.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,12631/

[vinceinIL]

What I did years ago....was to use an early Datsun 240Z air filter sandwiched between two flat pieces of aluminum that was drilled to fit the Weber 40DCOEs. The Webers have slightly shorter air horns that fit inside the air filter assembly. Ideally, there should be an amount equal to the diameter of the air horn between the intake and top of the air filter assembly. These really isn't much room, and I had to crush part of the tilerr and the top with a vise to clear the ti/tii booster. On the back side it a plastic plumbing fitting for the crankcase ventilation hose.

I bent the dipstick tube, and made a bracket for it that attaches to the top starter bolt.

Not having the air horns really decreases the performance of the DCOEs. Not having them also results in hesitation and poor acceleration and backfiring on deceleration because of the turbulence of the air rushing around the carb intakes.

I've attached a pic, I think...hope it helps,

vince

[rns7602]

The negative battery cable is the stock or oem version, thats my concern. On my way to Limerock a few years ago my car kept dying, new battery, brand new negative cable, new higher amp alternator(s), and I had to buy another en route and swap it out in a local town. PIA. Long story short, when I got to Limerock, Justin, one of the NY 02 guys suggested that I swap out the negative with a thicker gauge negative. I havent had a problem since. It aint OEM, but it may solve your charging problems for less than $20.

NY 02 guys, thanks again for following me home to make certain I didnt have any issues.

[bingbong]

Check your voltage reg, that could be the problem if not your alternator needs a rebuild or you can get another one. As for your webbers, I have seen back to back testing of both the socks and the cotton K&N type filters. 8HP difference between them. K&N came out on top.

[TobyB]

I have the same problem with my dipstick-

this winter, I'm going to cut it off really short so that it just sits in the

little stub tube.

'oooh, your dipstick is so... short?'

I hope that my ego can take it.

t

[rogerspeed]

I have the K&N small pancakes, the rear has about an 1/8" clearence, but with the Topend engine brace it hasn't knocked against the booster, eventually I'll make, or have made a custom box/plenum so I can run the intake to the snorkel with an inline filter. I think a long induction will give good performance across the rev range, as with the classic Alfa Veloce system. My motor is a 74 block with the dipstck tube that is rubber jointed, so the tube comes out acroos the bottom front edge of the front filter, I'm make a bracket to attach to the center bolt of the front filter to the bracket on the tube, I'll post pix next week when it come back from the metal man who is redoing the rockers and rear valance. BTW - Kragen sells rebuilt stock alternators (bosch type) under the autolite brand for $59.95! You have to reuse the old pulley, good deal