Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

All of a sudden no idle, running hot


johns1974

Recommended Posts

PREFACE--

Please excuse my ignorance on what most of you will likely consider basic stuff/symptoms...

After many miles of great running, I just filled up the tank and now the car won't hold an idle at any temperature. It just drops stone dead. It doesn't even try to stay lit. Cold, Warm or Hot it's all the same...

Also, the car is running quite a bit hotter than usual and getting very near the red after 20 minutes or so regardless of speed/traffic/airtemp.

Also, there is a loud series of "PPFFFFFTTTT" sounds (almost like tiny backfires) that continuously pop whenever the car is under engine braking, particularly at higher RPMs

The car still runs very strong and smooth when my foot is in it.

It's a real strong motor, e21 head, 38/38 weber, electronic ignition (crane), and all new filters all around (fuel, air etc.) It was running great before my last fill up...

Could all this be caused by a bad tankful of gas? Does it sound like a carburetor issue? Engine timing? I'm at a loss as to why this would all happen at once when none of these sysmptoms existed 2 days ago... Would a can of octane booster help (if it is a fuel issue)?

Any guidance on where to start would be ever so much appreciated. Thanks

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer ignition timing has 'slipped'

or carb jets have come loose?

carb jets blocked?

float level has changed - overflowing fuel?

look down into the carb while it's idling and report back

see if when you adjust the carb idle mixture screws you get a running

change with just 1/4 turn of the screw

if no running change with 1 to 2 turns in or out - you have an 'issue'

have you looked into the radiator ? - level?

over flowing?

looked into the oil filler cap ? do you see whitish foamy mix with the oil ?

fan belt loose?

any leakage from the bottom of the water pump - just behind the belt pully?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be a stuck thermostat. I've had overheating issues with a bad thermostat. Doesn't change the idle though. I agree with CD in that you should check the idle mix screw or see if you distributer is loose and is out of time. Otherwise CD is right about maybe a clogged fuel line, carb jet or bad float level. Good Luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks, c.d.

Now here comes the inevitable series of "sincere but stupid questions of the year":

How do I "unslip" it?

Which way do I turn the distributer?

How far?

With the engine running or no? (I'd have to get someone to hold the throttle open for me, i suppose)

Can I just grab it and twist, or do I need to loosen a screw (or other similar doodad) that might hold it in place?

FWIW, I don't have a timing light (wouldn't know how to read it if I had one)...

For anyone willing to show the patience to hold my hand through this, THANK YOU!

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

c.d.,

I need to take an auto shop course (or a 1,000) to even grasp what you are referring to most of the time!! I don't know the first thing about carb jets, mixture screws, or floats.

I can tell you:

there is no over flowing fuel,

the radiator is level, full, and still a good color

there is no foaminess in the oil filler cap

the fan belt is tight

and there are no leaks, at all, from the water pump or anywhere else.

BTW... I smile everytime I read your posts because everytime I read one, I'm reminded how much I wish I knew! But I'm like a 3rd grader talking to a professor emeritus...

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well john - you just placed the apple

on the teachers desk !. Thank you for the compliments

I feel your need to learn and you have a great life ahead of you with

the attitude that you exibit.

Wish I were closer - but wait a little longer and

hopefully you find a 02 neighbor willing to spend some time with you.

The public library usually containd very dated general automotive

'how to' books showing you the basics that you need about timing light operation, carburetor basics,

and other topics that will help you understand the basics of Motor compression, ignition, cooling system, carburetion/fuel injection,

drive train .

<<<<<<<<<<<><>>>>><>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I need to take an auto shop course (or a 1,000) to even grasp what you are referring to most of the time!! I don't know the first thing about carb jets, mixture screws, or floats.

I can tell you:

there is no over flowing fuel,

the radiator is level, full, and still a good color

there is no foaminess in the oil filler cap

the fan belt is tight

and there are no leaks, at all, from the water pump or anywhere else.

BTW... I smile everytime I read your posts because everytime I read one, I'm reminded how much I wish I knew! But I'm like a 3rd grader talking to a professor emeritus...

----------------------------------------------------------------

at least you have looked at a few of the 'basics'

and we can zoom in closer to your poor running cause. . . . .

_________________

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turn the distributer counter clockwise a bit if it's slipped, but it could mess you up. But if the bolt is loose that holds it into place then it might be the problem. My car doesn't run good on 10% Ethanol and you might need to richen up the carb some by turning the idle mix screw counter clockwise a bit. Stock carb settings on a weber 32/36 are 2 1/2 turns out, but if it is too rich it will feel sluggish and too lean will feel tight and shaky when it revs. Might want to check to make sure you are close to the 2 1/2 idle mix screw stock setting and go from there. Wouldn't do anything too drastic with the distributer unless the little screw holing it on is loose. I sorta 'Italian' tune mine by feel. Advance is clockwise and counter is retard on the distributer. To far avance will either start super quick, or not at all, to far retard will start slow and rob you of power. What I did was find a nice place on the carb where the revs were right and it shifts smooth without grinding gears and turn the distributer a bit one way or the other to smooth out the engine 'Italian' style. Then I'll start it again to make sure I'm not too far advance, drive it and test it with my right foot and shifter hand. ;-)

Anyway, if the distributer bolt is loose then it might be too far advance, other wise it's a carb/fuel/Air issue...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 38/38 so I don't know if that solenoid is the answer... Does a 38/38 have one? I'll look into that. It does feel, to me, like a carb/fuel issue but I need to learn more about the way distributers work...

I'll be tinkering this weekend and hope I don't screw things up too bad! I live in fear of making things worse, especially if it is something super simple. Thanks!

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, the "there is a loud series of "PPFFFFFTTTT" sounds (almost like tiny backfires) that continuously pop whenever the car is under engine braking, particularly at higher RPMs " is kind of strange. Check for a loose spark plug, or maybe an air leak on the intake system, like a vacuum hose that has come off or has a hole/crack. A lean condition from an air leak could have an effect on the idle, and make the motor run hot.

Chris B.

'73 ex-Malaga

Link to comment
Share on other sites

to add to the masters diagnosis, the sound under engine braking could be unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust system, bad ignition timing will increase the unburned fuel in the exhaust system (and cause overheating), you may also want to look for exhaust leaks which will provide the oxygen to help create the burning of fuel in the exhaust system.

RK in OC

ex- 67 1600ti/Aplina

http://rogerspeed.tripod.com/bmw_1600tialpina/

83 A/R Spider Veloce

"I come from a broken home, I should know, I broke it" Bazooka Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey CD - maybe you can add a Weber carb. graphic to this post that shows the adjustment screws (if you have one).

John: Do you have any kind of manual for your car? All manuals (even the BMW owner's manual) have great pictures showing the locations of all the areas you need to inspect. Whatever you do, pick only (1) thing to inspect/change at a time. This is the only way to correctly diagnose a problem.

I'm curious as to the problems with your car. Good luck and keep us informed.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for those who are interested here's what I got accomplished... Just because my gut told me that the last gas fill up might have been the culprit, I drained the tank down to about 1/4 tank (using the old fashioned siphoning method) and then refilled with 5 gallons of chevron 91 octane. Then I took all of your advice about an "italian tune-up" and went for a spirited drive...

Idle is much better now and actually holds where it is supposed to! The "PFFT" sounds that existed under engine braking are also much reduced. But it did get warm again (about a 1/4 inch from the red)... so that is something i'll be looking into... maybe a radiator swap from Mr. Ingraham is in my immediate future. (a search of the archives tells me they are the best, by far... I'll be asking you all for any tips tricks to this but I'm hoping it is a bolt-for-bolt transplant and not too complicated)

I'll try to dig a little deeper as I have time next weekend but I feel OK getting back and forth to work this upcoming week. Thanks to all for your generous support of this complete rookie.

And maybe there is something to be said for buying good gas from the same station with these old cars. Thanks again,

-john

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...