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Giubo for 5-speed 245 swap


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I'm in the middle of a swap to the 245 Getrag in my '73 2002.  I got a modified drive shaft from the seller that is a tad too short.  It has the 3-bolt flange on it, and it was done nicely - looks factory but it isn't.

I know I have some adjustment in the diff mount but I need a bit more than that will afford.

I'm lead to believe there is a thicker Giubo available, possibly from an automatic car.  I've been to my local dealer but they have no specs on the Giubo thickness for any of the offerings.

My current 6-bolt Guibo is 28 mm thick.  I'm looking for something that is thicker - does anyone have a thickness measurement for the Giubo for an automatic?  Or does anyone know where I can source a Guibo that is thicker that isn't BMW as there are other makes that use them.

I'm thinking that's the best way for me to make up some of the space, then I can fine tune it with the diff mount and maybe a bit of movement in the motor mounts to get it right.

Appreciate the input.

Thanks

 

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Merrrffff... you know, I've never seen a rubber coupling spreadsheet, with all the different sizes.

God knows, there are at least a hundred different ones, over the decades and manufacturers.

 

The auto coupling is too large in diameter- the bolt circle is bigger.

But there's a small E30 version.  I don't know how thick that is.

 

I'll bet RealOEM doesn't give dimensions, but that'd be the first place I'd look

and then start trolling through different models and drivetrain options...

 

When stuck with the opposite problem, I have milled 5mm off a 4- bolt without 

any ill effects.  And I'm just nuts enough to try using hardened washers to spacer

the coupling back a little- E30 head bolt washers are 10mm.

I would NOT do it with a non- hardened washer.

 

t

willing to try all sorts of questionable ideas.

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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PSA:

Early 245 with four bolt flange using a standard 114 four bolt flange driveshaft and guibo gets a driveshaft that measures 59" end to end.

Later 245 with three bolt flange using a standard e21 guibo on a standard 114 driveshaft wearing an e21 driveshaft nose measures 59.5" end to end. The .5" length difference is the thickness difference between the e21 and 114 guibos. These are overdrive trans specific lengths. C/R versions are different.

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2 hours ago, Furry Camel said:

PSA:

Early 245 with four bolt flange using a standard 114 four bolt flange driveshaft and guibo gets a driveshaft that measures 59" end to end.

Later 245 with three bolt flange using a standard e21 guibo on a standard 114 driveshaft wearing an e21 driveshaft nose measures 59.5" end to end. The .5" length difference is the thickness difference between the e21 and 114 guibos. These are overdrive trans specific lengths. C/R versions are different.

I have a 3 bolt flange on the end of the transmission and a modified 2002 driveshaft with a 3 bolt flange welded on a shortened front shaft.  The overall length of the shaft all assembled is 59 3/16".  I'm trying to make up the additional 5/16" to get the right length.  

I understood that a giubo from an automatic might be thicker but also may be bigger in diameter causing it to interfere with the shift platform/linkage.  I need a giubo that has 78mm center to center bolt holes and no more than 110mm diameter.  It's the thickness that I'm looking to increase slightly.

 

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Have you tried loosening all the motor and transmission mounts and pushing the motor back as far as it can go without the distributor hitting the firewall?

 

Or is there room on the rear subframe to make the slotted differential mount holes longer?

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I’ve got a few e30 guibos I can measure. Problem is, I’m traveling for the next two weeks. If you still haven’t figured this out by next weekend I’ll be glad to measure one when I’m back home. 

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3 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Have you tried loosening all the motor and transmission mounts and pushing the motor back as far as it can go without the distributor hitting the firewall?

 

Or is there room on the rear subframe to make the slotted differential mount holes longer?

I'm hoping between the giubo and the movement in motor mounts and diff, I can get it to work.

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3 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Have you tried loosening all the motor and transmission mounts and pushing the motor back as far as it can go without the distributor hitting the firewall?

 

Or is there room on the rear subframe to make the slotted differential mount holes longer?

Thanks.  If I get it solved, I'll post here.  I appreciate the help with measuring your giubo.

Cheers

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3 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Or is there room on the rear subframe to make the slotted differential mount holes longer?

There is an oval non- crush sleeve in there that prevents that-

 

I had thought the same thing when my shaft came up... too long.

 

Alas, no, she said.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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A couple of factoids.

The engine won't be moving back for you.

The diff can move a little back, but not forward enough to make up that difference.

The fact of the matter is, you're chasing after a fix for a driveshaft that is too short, and unless money is a huge factor, you should just find a used driveshaft and have the three bolt nose cut from the short shaft and get it done right.

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3 hours ago, TobyB said:

There is an oval non- crush sleeve in there that prevents that-

May I suggest number 2 in the chart below.

 SPECIALIST_BOLTS_CHART_1AD63869-979D-8DC7-D343FB1BA440D02F.jpg

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I'm working on the install and the options shown above.  I'm hoping it's solvable without sacrificing another driveshaft.  I'll try a combination of the suggestions and let you know.  Thanks for the input!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/28/2024 at 8:45 PM, Motorrod said:

I'm working on the install and the options shown above.  I'm hoping it's solvable without sacrificing another driveshaft.  I'll try a combination of the suggestions and let you know.  Thanks for the input!

Just wondering how this turned out. THX

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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