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Head Locating pins on block-how to remove?


Pablo M
Go to solution Solved by jgerock,

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I’m trying to clean up the block in preparation for installing my rebuilt head. 
 

how do you take out the two locating pins without special tools? 
I’ve looked up ways on YouTube, and tried to put something inside it to keep it collapsing as I take a vice grip to it but there isn’t enough to really grab on to. 
Any other tricks? 
Or can I clean the block with them in place? I’ve already scraped the surface pretty smooth but need to take the Roloc bristle discs to it next. 
 

Locating pins are bottom left corner and upper right (between 1 and 2). 
 

image.thumb.jpeg.983b0bee525eecf83a35b66c59de9c75.jpeg

(I’ve further cleaned the block and piston tops since this photo) 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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1 hour ago, Tommy said:

It's easier if you don't have to worry about ruining the old dowels.

image.png.87806918cc3c47399644702770dc1948.png

Cheap, for sure. 
how do I get them out though? Honestly I’m afraid of damaging them trying  and not being able to get them out. Then being stuck.  
edit: or worse yet, crack the block trying to force it out. 
if there’s a technique for removing them, by damaging them beyond use, I’ll try it if it’s been done before. I just need to know. 

Edited by Pablo M

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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I have managed to get them out with some adjustable water pump pliers. Sometimes easy, sometimes harder way. Maybe somebody can discribe some tricks better than me.

But also, just for cleaning, I don't think it's necessary to remove them.

Edited by Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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Vice grips, yank them out, install new ones. Be sure to run a 12mm x 1.75 thread chaser/tap down the head bolt holes, and clean clean clean  the holes out well. Any debris, oil or gunk will prevent the proper crush when torqueing. 

You should be able to easily spin the head bolts down to the shoulder with your fingers. 

The Devil's in the details....

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Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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2 hours ago, jgerock said:

Stick a socket into the dowel, then use pliers to twist it out.

IMG_2001.jpeg

That’s what I tried, with vice grips. Couldn’t get the pin to turn, the vice grip wasn’t getting a good bite. I guess it wouldn’t hurt for me to try again with regular channel locks. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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Just buy 2 new ones for $15, better than flailing around experimenting, searching for tooling to extract old ones without damage.

They are used on multiple cars, engines, locations so your local BMW Stealer probably has them in stock.

Easy to get them out if you are tossing them.

 

11111743118

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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8 hours ago, jgerock said:

Stick a socket into the dowel, then use pliers to twist it out.

IMG_2001.jpeg

Ok, I tried this again, with a little more nerve and did manage to get them out. Damaged but they’re out. New ones ordered. I feel silly, but was so freaked out about getting so far on the head rebuild only to mess something up at this point. Once I get those pins I can install my rebuilt head and see about starting the car! 
thank you. 

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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2 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Once I get those pins I can install my rebuilt head and see about starting the car! 

For the record, they are called alignment dowels.  More are on the lower bolts of the lower timing cover to block joint and on the bell housing to transmission joint.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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