Engine OMG! Identify all the things that are wrong (pics)

[Salamander]

Hello again FAQ friends! 

 

With the rear suspension refresh behind me, I'm turning my attention to Liesl's front end.  Let's take a peek at her engine: 

 

I am hoping you all will help me to identify all of the issues I am facing.

• disconnected wiring
• severed/plugged hoses
• disconnected sensors
• Zeuna exhaust manifold?

 

Uhg.  I am feeling overwhelmed and discouraged.  Advice?

 

Edited June 15, 2023 by Salamander

[tech71]

What year? Does it run? If so how well?

Seeing the usual smog relays ect, those can account for a lot of disconnected wires hoses

• Zeuna exhaust manifold?   Say what??

How about a pic of this "Zeuna" manifold?

Edited June 15, 2023 by tech71

[Mark92131]

28 minutes ago, Salamander said:

 

Uhg.  I am feeling overwhelmed and discouraged.  Advice?

 

Most of the disconnected wires, hoses and sensors is what is left of your emission equipment.  If your car is a 1975 or older in CA, here's a step by step for removing all the smog equipment.  Some of your equipment may already be removed.

 

Mark92131

 

Smog removal

 

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, IE Shorty Header, or just use your Zeuna exhaust manifold.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smogharness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

 

[John76]

Looks like a '75 or a California Spec '76.

If this is a '76, then at least it looks like you have the basic parts needed to pass the CA biennial smog test.

First step is to de-grease and clean everything. Once all wires can be identified (color code) then schematics are available to show where and how things should be connected.

Pop the distributor cap to see if it has points or an electronic ignition module. You have a condenser, but you also show an extra black wire near the coil that is not connected. The black wire in the skinny blue sheath is the normal connection to the distributor.

Hope this is a '75...much easier to tidy up the engine bay.

John

[Salamander]

The car is a '76 with a ton of '74 parts.  It came from NoCal and is now in SoCal, so I will face smog soon.  It's currently in the garage until I can get it to a place where I feel it's safe and road-worthy.

 

It does run and drive, but very rough.  I've refreshed the rear suspension, but still need to complete the front and replace/upgrade the brakes.

 

For now, maybe degrease and clean up the engine bay best I can as-is and get the front suspension and brakes sorted first?

[Salamander]

51 minutes ago, tech71 said:

What year? Does it run? If so how well?

Seeing the usual smog relays ect, those can account for a lot of disconnected wires hoses

• Zeuna exhaust manifold?   Say what??

How about a pic of this "Zeuna" manifold?

 

@tech71 Here you go!  "1260006 Zeuna ZS141 03 75"  The aluminum foil must have been a Dealer incentive! 😉

[Mark92131]

Ouch, a 76 with Smog Parts missing!  The ZEUNA manifold will need to be replaced with a Thermal Reactor version along with plumbing and check valve to the diverter valve / smog pump.  Use this diagram below to determine what you have and what you will need.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[tech71]

That looks... not right, possible big ass vacuum leak?,

Edited June 15, 2023 by tech71

[John76]

11 minutes ago, tech71 said:

That looks... not right, possible big ass vacuum leak?

No... not to worry. It's the connection pipe to the diverter valve from the air pump.

 

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

The ZEUNA manifold will need to be replaced with a Thermal Reacto

No... not to worry. The ZEUNA ZS 141 is a thermal reactor. Treat it like it's made of gold...$$$$.

 

[Salamander]

20 minutes ago, tech71 said:

That looks... not right, possible big ass vacuum leak?,

 

No clue.  It is a plug.  And the top corner of the radiator has a weld patch, correct?  Is that a viable repair?

 

[Salamander]

3 minutes ago, John76 said:

No... not to worry. It's the connection pipe to the diverter valve from the air pump.

 

No... not to worry. The ZEUNA ZS 141 is a thermal reactor. Treat it like it's made of gold...$$$$.

 

 

@John76 Thank you!! I find your diagrams super helpful as I am a visual learner and '02 newbie.  Much appreciated!!

[tech71]

2 hours ago, Salamander said:

And the top corner of the radiator has a weld patch, correct?  Is that a viable repair?

Probably solder, sure, as long as its not leaking😉

[Son of Marty]

Your oil pressure sender wire is missing, might be nice to hook it up and hope the warning light is not on when the engine is running.

Edited June 16, 2023 by Son of Marty

[Conserv]

Perhaps the “NA” in “ZEUNA” stands for North America (Nordamerika).

 

Here’s what a thermal reactor manifold looks like new.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[John76]

1 hour ago, Conserv said:

Here’s what a thermal reactor manifold looks like new.

Here's the underside of a used reactor with part number.

These were only fitted to all US '75 cars and only CA '76 cars.

You can probably find a bunch of them in neighborhood pools.