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Rear spring alignment


mosman58

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Is the spring still under compression?

if not you should be able to reach in a center it.

if it is, a big pry bar would perhaps get the spring back on its perch. Or lower the car, remove the bottom screw from the shock absorber, and then jack the car up. You can then apply downward pressure to the rear axle to provide enough room to pry the spring/pad back where it’s supposed to be. You’ll need another person to help.

Edited by gwb72tii

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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Don't try to force the rear to droop with the halfshaft attached- it's 

possible to damage them if you use a LOT of force.  I found that

stock springs won't release unless you remove the axle and let it REALLY droop.

 

As to coming out of position, the pads help, but unless the spring's naturally aligned

with the metal pads, the rubber's not enough to keep the thing in place, and it'll

do it again.  

The stock springs are pretty good about staying in place, but if the ends have been cut

or they're some of the less impressive aftermarket, they can be a real bear.  They don't usually

make a bid for freedom- but they can be noisy.  I had to strap some from Ireland into place, once.

Sometimes they just rotate out of position, and you can find a new position that works better.

 

hth,

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I had to undo my half-shafts to get the stock springs out, but can remove the H&Rs by undoing the shocks.  I still use a spring compressor to get that last little bit of clearance.  I got in there last summer to deal with the same problem you're having and had some fun that I shared in the "what did you do today" thread.  I'll go ahead and share it here too, in case it helps some future archive searcher... and because it was a fun solution.

 

My original lower spring pads had given out under the ends of the H&R springs and they no longer sat flat on the rubber.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.e0403dc53026a02cb272e3a838ca8f4c.jpeg


I only had one spare, so I made another one by cutting down an extra 2 dot pad I had.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.ed2b473a96577b54c6c81ac1b01c35be.jpeg

 

I cut down the height to match the replacement but added an eighth of thickness, to help with the driver's side sitting lower.  It sits level side to side now.  The hole in the middle of the upper pads is smaller, so I traced a tuna can and cut to that line;

 

image.thumb.jpeg.df02a3ed415089069698030b8867692e.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.95a210106d11d8d6b392f8c26ca41458.jpeg

 

then rounded edges over a bit and added the notch in the bottom to key it in.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.81b6467e0cac65007bb3ebdbfdcc66a2.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.dc63beaa3d441308cea4e9272ad5a76f.jpeg

 

Tom

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I used a length of plastic tubing from Ace Hardware that matched the diameter of the HR springs on my car. Pushed up a length far enough on the coils, probably about 12", to substitute for the pad. It has worked without any issues so far, about 25,000 miles....

 

I'm going to go in the corner now and duck

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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Not too much there to weld a good welder may be able to cut the top and bottom off and weld in a new vertical section, or you could try and source a arm or the spring seat from the parts wanted section. That part was never offered as a replacement.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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FYI, I took out my stock springs recently and I didn’t want to take off the drive shafts. I just took a long pry bar to get the spring off their seats (once I had remove the shock and sway bar to give me max droop). Was worth it and not too difficult. The new shocks were lowered shocks so went in easily. 
 

I like the solution of the steel and through bolt for retaining the spring though. I may end up copying that. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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