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Is this the best sunroof seal adhesive?


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Just did mine.  I used acetone on a piece of Terry towel to remove the old glue.  I used contact  cement I got from an upholstery shop in a mason jar.  Dries fast and holds well.  It's easier if you can get a brush-on glue.  The tube is ok but harder to get spread evenly.

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Last time I did those seals, I used good old Weldwood Contact Cement, AKA gorilla snot--the yellow stuff you buy at the hardware store.  Comes in a bottle with a brush in the cap.   Still holding nicely after 20-some years.  I did clean off all the old glue (also contact cement) before I did this job.  And one of the little 4 oz bottles did both the long and short pieces.

 

mike

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   Yes, the black super w/strip adhesive IMHO does well over the long haul. That said, surface prep (cleaning off old glue/wax/grease) is important for good adhesion. Test the remover/cleaner in an inconspicuous spot, making sure your paint stays on. Back in the day I used a spray can of adhesive remover on a rag. Nowadays, a product called "Goof Off" softens the glue for the most part to wipe off. A fingernail/whale bone tool, etc. for some of the harder spots (always watching the painted surfaces). Clean off residue before gluing. Carefully, apply light amounts of glue to trim piece and metal surface and let both get tacky. When you put them together they'll be stuck good.

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Toluene/xylene from your local hardware store is the solvent in contact cement and is the best dilutor of old contact cement.  Won't hurt cured paint. 

 

I wouldn't use black glue on the sunroof seal.  Too big of a chance to get it on a visible surface and discolor the seal.  Any common contact cement will last decades as prescribed by @Mike Self.

Edited by PaulTWinterton
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22 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Toluene/xylene from your local hardware store is the solvent in contact cement and is the best dilutor of old contact cement.  Won't hurt cured paint. 

 

I wouldn't use black glue on the sunroof seal.  Too big of a chance to get it on a visible surface and discolor the seal.  Any common contact cement will last decades as prescribed by @Mike Self.

FYI the current, damaged seal is attached to the rear of the roof opening (i.e. not the s/r panel itself). Since I'm not sure what type of glue was used to attach it, would that same solvent remove something other than contact cement?

I'm planning to put the new seal on the rear of the panel itself, assuming I can get all the residue off the current location. I have to adjust the sunroof height anyway, so I thought I'd do that while the panel's out. 

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53 minutes ago, richdnyc said:

'm not sure what type of glue was used to attach it, would that same solvent remove something other than contact cement?

 

Can't say for sure.

 

Unless the PO used superglue, I'd think that the glue is a type of contact cement.  It can't hurt to have some toluene around for future use.  Test a small patch to see if you can soften the existing glue.  Good luck.

 

Just to confirm: contact cement application is onto BOTH surfaces,  wait until both are highly tacky and then attach with some pressure.

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11 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Unless the PO used superglue, I'd think that the glue is a type of contact cement.  It can't hurt to have some toluene around for future use.

Try hard not to breathe it, its hell on your sinuses . Use in a well ventilated area.

I keep acetone and toluene  around in small quantities.

I'm a gorilla snot fan myself due satisfactory results, easy access and excellent price point.

Edited by tech71
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On 8/25/2021 at 10:04 AM, richdnyc said:

3m 08008. $18 for a 5 oz tube at Bezosmart

 

Also, what’s the best way to remove old seal/residue?

 

Would the 1oz tube be enough for just the rear seal?

686C5978-5CA8-4D98-9D7D-F09461C7ECE8.jpeg

 

I have used the same adhesive and it works just fine. It does the job pretty well. But still depends on where you will use it.

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