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Chrome Belt Line Molding - Two Way Tape v Drilling?


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The PO of my car did a beautiful glass/ motor out paint job.  His vision was NO chrome - NO moldings - wheels offset out etcetera.  I am modifying the car to my taste and I really like the rocker trim and particularly the belt molding.  I ordered a set from Roger's Ti and now two people have spooked me into re-drilling the holes that were filled by the PO and potential damage to an otherwise 8 on 10 paint job and highlighting irregularities in the the door - hood - trunk alignments.   I am aware of the adhesive molding some have used - which looks pretty good for sure - but I just wanted to go that extra little bit.

 

Simple question is - have any of you heard of using two way molding tape or other no intrusive technic that I mitigate risk.  In a perfect work, there would be a product of perfect thickness that hides it self within the MVL trim piece and 'sticks' to the body of the car....but I am not hopeful that has been done.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks for potential responses. 

Edited by Overdraft

1973 BMW 2002 Restomod - Fjord Blue on Nutmeg 

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Is there anything that modern cars use that would work?

One of the issues you may face is poor fitting trim, the BMW trim of late doesn’t fit that well and the belt line trim in particular needs the mounting hardware to “pull it in” around the corners of the leading edges of the hood, I’m not sure that you could achieve that with tape, I’d trial fit it especially where I’ve mentioned, if it doesn’t fit return it and get the set (stainless I believe) that fits properly, maybe the MVP set fits better, but I’d start with this before you try tape. 
I had exactly this issue and it took ages to find a set that fitted.

hth, good luck!

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Another problem with using tape on the OEM style molding is that the molding is hollow on the back, so the tape would only grip two narrow edges--each only a few mm wide--on the molding. 

 

And as Sydney tii points out, even the molding installed at the factory when the cars were new needs those clips--and especially the stud plates on the ends--to hold it firmly against the body.  Tape ain't gonna do it.  

 

What you can do is examine the underside of your hood and trunk lid to spot the locations of the original clip holes.  If they were plugged with filler or solder vs weld, you can mark 'em on the outside and carefully drill out the filler. 

 

If they were welded, simply drill holes at locations other than the welds.  Put masking tape over the paint before you drill to prevent skittering (and start with a very small bit, again to minimize paint damage).  For the quarter panels, look on-line or in the archives for either measurements of where the holes go, or pictures to give you an idea of where to drill your new holes.  The only tricky part will be drilling holes for the stud plates, as they need to be close to the ends of the trim pieces--especially the curved sections on the hood and trunk lid.  

 

Or...if you're not a purist, get some stick-on chrome molding (lots of discussion on the FAQ about using it).  

 

mike

 

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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there's too much tension on the belt line trim to try and tape it on the car...i'd run a couple of layers of masking tape around the car where the belt line clips need to be, mark the strategic spots and drill through the tape...it will keep the drill from skidding and paint from chipping

 

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Let me preface this by saying hat I have no idea what Rogerstii belt trim is like.  But if it is anything like the stainless belt trim that was floating around a few years ago you are in for a festival of pain.  I would carefully test fit all of it before taking any further steps.  Good luck.  

Mars Attacks!

marsattacks.jpg

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A local guy did his 1600 with the parts store self-stick chrome trim and sure it’s got a slightly different profile but it’s not offensive.  Have to say it actually looked pretty good because it looked so fresh and he also did a nice job with the various radii.  It might be the right thing to bridge the gap between not having any trim and drilling holes for the factory-style stuff.  If anything it’s an inexpensive stop-gap.  

Edited by wkohler

1973 2002 tii

1974 2002 turbo

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If you have a nice paint job, either drill and do the chrome the right way, or not at all. The chrome bolts have alot of tension to hold especially on the corners. Tape is not a real option.

 

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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2 hours ago, jfunk said:

Here's another option for you to explore:

 

http://thepaddock.xyz/store/2002beltlinetrim

I have seen this on 2 cars in the flesh, it’s remarkably good, one car didn’t use the OEM joiners and one car did, the one with the joiners I had to look at closer to see it was not the original trim, they both look good. It was done for exactly the same reason you are looking at.

As usual it’s all in the careful prep and application, I had mine replaced due to a hood impact, where believe it or not both sides were push back down the whole length of the car! I’d consider it if I’d had to pay for a new set, insurance forked out for mine.

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11 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

I have seen this on 2 cars in the flesh, it’s remarkably good, one car didn’t use the OEM joiners and one car did, the one with the joiners I had to look at closer to see it was not the original trim, they both look good. It was done for exactly the same reason you are looking at.

As usual it’s all in the careful prep and application, I had mine replaced due to a hood impact, where believe it or not both sides were push back down the whole length of the car! I’d consider it if I’d had to pay for a new set, insurance forked out for mine.

What is a joiner?

Edited by Hans
Spell
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1 hour ago, Hans said:

What is a joiner

Here you go, on the hood and trunk located just after the trim curve, something will also have to be done at the end of each panel to hide the colour of the cut.

 

CDD02692-0962-4E18-B279-E2A95C937971.png

10A308F1-12FD-48CB-8964-CED3B10F07C4.png

Edited by SydneyTii
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Thanks for the comments all.  In the end, I sought out a body shop with the patience to listen to me as I explained what I had learned through FAQ - photos and all.  The MVL mouldings provided by Rogers Ti were excellent .  Car looks much more complete.

FE167B67-8A27-47BF-8BEF-7019E5AF2D34.jpeg

  • Like 5

1973 BMW 2002 Restomod - Fjord Blue on Nutmeg 

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