A/C recommendations

[Son of Marty]

When using the vendors output/sizing you'd be better off going a bit oversized due to the large amount of glass in a 02

[Rudy2002]

The fact is that you can choose to use two separate systems designed 50 years ago or modern technology.  Electoservo controls. Blended systems where you can defrost your windscreen with dry cool air.  Send cool air to your feet, or face or screen. No one would ever design what these cars have nowadays. You can also plumb the vents into any of the dealer installed center console faceplates if you want so I am not clear why you can't use an original.  The blower moves twice the air and the evaporator and heater core are new.  When you add up all of the costs of rebuilding a heater box with motors, the little radiator and the rebuild kit for the stuck valve, plus the costs of rebuilding your ancient Frigiking or Behr system it's not even much more money.
For me, despite the effort to do the fabrication it's is not even a consideration to restore what I had.   

[Rudy2002]

Sorry, post was duplicated 

Edited February 9 by Rudy2002
Duplicated

[Rudy2002]

The comment on addressing the greenhouse glass and heat load is valid. But a very worthwhile thing to do (common on 911's) is the use a ceramic window tint on every window. It eliminates 75% of the UV load and heat soak that you get. It is also not a noticeable tint. 

[ray_]

Rudy, please keep us posted on your progress. 

 

Also provide your shipping address and I'll send my car up. You can do two at once!

 

;-)

 

BTW I don't recall if it were mentioned in this thread about the smaller clearance hose connectors... this link or nearabouts.... 

EZ Clip Fittings | Aeroquip

WWW.EATONPOWERSOURCE.COM

 

 

Cheers,

[Vicleonardo1]

I am going to go the route of window tint that blocks UV/IR. Just installed Huper Optik on my Audi and it looks and works great. 

 

Huper also makes a clear ceramic that cuts UV/IR that you can put on the windshield.  I will install it on the windshield and darker on my side and rear windows on my 02 when I get it back.  Hoping it cools down the greenhouse and lets my ICEAir keep up. 

[0257]

4 hours ago, ray_ said:

I hear that system is really hard on ignition switches.

 

😁😁😁😁😜

Getting that prehistoric bracket on simultaneously the compressor was hard on my knuckles!

[leggomyelko]

Always a fascinating topic to keep tabs on.  Please pardon the shameless plug, but just trying to help some folks out rather than cling to my own stockpile of parts.  If anyone is looking for Behr evap/console components (or even a compressor bracket), check out the link below:

 

[rstclark]

Adding one more shameless plug to a very good thread

I am taking over the production and sales of the hobiedave AC bracket from the originator Dave Donoghue and hope to have a website for direct click thru sales in about a month or two The website will be : hobiedaveacbracket.com  when it goes live  

 

[chargin]

13 hours ago, rstclark said:

hobiedave AC bracket from the originator Dave Donoghue and hope to have a website for direct click thru sales in about a month or two The website will be : hobiedaveacbracket.com  when it goes live  

 

 

Really looks like the best M10 compressor bracket 👍

[jgerock]

After going thru an extensive ac upgrade on my 73tii, there are some things everyone should be aware of:

 

1) New, parallel flow condensers will block more air used to cool an engine radiator. My engine temps were higher after installing a 10x18 condenser, even on a relatively cool day.  My engine already had a 71 degree C thermostat, new water pump PLUS a new Walloth Nesch HF 3 row radiator.  
 

2). Using the condenser fan (like a 12” Spal) for cooling the radiator (in my case) did not work effectively enough after I removed the stock 5 blade mechanical fan.  I added it back to the engine which provided enough air to keep engine temps in line.

 

3) Use reduced barrier (RB) ac hoses for easier routing, especially in the cabin and nose areas.  When using a crimping tool, you must crimp the RB fittings MORE than the instructions say, or else you may have leaks. BTDT.  Standard thickness hoses are more forgiving for leaks due to the extra material.

 

4). Bypass the original relay in the Behr system that prevents the ac from turning on if the heater blower is on. Too much confusion for what should be a simple circuit.

 

5) Wire in a manual toggle switch for the condenser fan to activate it as required (supplements the stock mechanical fan for hot days).

 

6) Add a relay with in line fuse for the ac compressor instead of relying on the old switches which may have a large voltage drop. I mounted a relay next to the Spal condenser fan relay on the right inner fender.

 

7) Move the AC charge point fittings away from the compressor and exhaust manifold.  There are quite a few options for fittings.

 

8). Source some copper flare washers for use at the original evaporator and expansion valve.  Contrary to the published Behr documentation, the small fitting on the evaporator valve is different than listed.  Gasket 5 says 7/16” washer. It is actually 1/4”.

 

9) A new ac temperature switch is cheap. I sourced a new one via Amazon for less than $9. UAC brand p/n SW6490C.  It doesn’t come with a knob, but you can press your old one on.

[rstclark]

Is there any consensus of a recommended parts list to upgrade a Behr or Fridgidking system ?

Perhaps a  basic kit with options

[MurphinDC]

12 hours ago, jgerock said:

6) Add a relay with in line fuse for the ac compressor instead of relying on the old switches which may have a large voltage drop. I mounted a relay next to the Spal condenser fan relay on the right inner fender.

 

@jgerock

Do you know which relay you used?  Any recommendations?

 

Thanks

Murph

[M3M3]

Just a basic Hella relay as used for lights.   Nothing special. 

[jgerock]

12 hours ago, MurphinDC said:

 

@jgerock

Do you know which relay you used?  Any recommendations?

 

Thanks

Murph

A normally open type relay. 4 wire type. Sourced mine on Amazon.