The Kumquat, my newly acquired ‘74 INKA sunroof car

[jimk]

14 minutes ago, NLPed said:

My reasoning for this, is that I’d really like to retrofit a Holley Sniper EFI 2-barrel setup,

@Dudelandwhat do you think?

[NLPed]

Let me clarify on the Sniper EFI choice. I have the 4 barrel version on my 1963 Ford Falcon and it’s exceptional. Hence my proclivity for looking that direction. 

 

 

[zinz]

They work great on a V8. Folks have struggled to get them to run on a 2.0 liter; especially at low rpms.  I know one guy in the Austin area who claims he’s sorted one out on a 2002, but I haven’t actually seen it. 
 

Ed

[Dudeland]

On 2/16/2021 at 6:34 PM, jimk said:

@Dudelandwhat do you think?

 

Kindly take a look at my blog. As far as I know, I am the only one to have done it with a Sniper efi. I did it because I wanted the challenge. I took a flyer and jumped in.  I can't find any information about the guy in Austin. 

 

I think after a lot of tinkering, I have the setup dialled in pretty good. It is not terrible and makes more power than stock. The driveability is good. It will be better once I swap out the linkage I have for a cable because if I hone on it, even with rigid rubber motor mounts, the car will pick up revs when the engine flexes. Nothing huge, but I notice it, and it needs to get fixed. 

 

The thing that will throw you off is that you will get fuel pooling at the bottom of the intake. I figured out that it wasn't the injectors, but the initial primer shot that finds dead air at the bottom of the cold intake. If you didn't get it warm enough, it would stay there.  Probably there is some not gas properly mixing because of low flow rates, but it wasn't the primary source. 

 

You don't put any fuel enricher (fuel squirter in carb talk) in it. I think it is not necessarily too much carb in terms of intake, and It is just that the thing can pour the fuel.  So in order to get the correct learning to take place your fuel needs to be pretty linear,  the squirter throws stuff off and adds noise to the data.  In addition at idle, the airflow rates are so low that it makes the car struggle not to overshoot when coming off the throttle because the fuel is coming out of suspension and artificially leaning things out. 

 

 To solve this, I put a particular fuel map so that when my throttle position was closed, it would pin the thing fatty anything between 2 and 4K rpm. So it ensures that it will richen up the charge because most of it will fall out of suspension. The second I open the throttle, poof, everything dries up, and away you go. If you are coming to a stop, it gives the computer time to sort out the trim as the fuel dries off the intake walls. When I realized this, it ultimately changed my mind as to if this was a success or not.

 

Before I put her away, I leaned it out quite a bit in terms of off-throttle enrichment, and it didn't seem to mind. I ran out of time and insurance before taking it for 2-5K rip to make sure. It is making me feel ok doing all the other stuff, rather than swapping in the turbo.  At a couple points I couldn't wait to rip it out.  But now, it will do until I take care of the other stuff. 

 

You will need a crank trigger, and you have to get one made. Holley wants a hall effect sensor, but the problem is that nobody makes a drive pulley with magnets in it, and the missing tooth thing won't work with the Holley TBI/Sniper system.  The standalone one does, but not the Sniper.

 

You will need a CD system. I have an MSD 6AL. It is the only one that works with the Sniper and allows you to control both fuel and spark in the same interface. 

 

They are picky about timing, and it will be your best friend when trying to dial in the descent to idle. The crank-driven MSD is a dream to play with. You can make your car make some cool sounds, but that is another subject altogether.  But it would help if you had it as there is a good chance that you have a ton of slop in your dizzy, which makes things unpredictable to the EFI, which is sensitive and a bit paranoid if you ask me.  So every once in a while, you would get some crazy hiccup to happen, or it would flop or pop. 

 

Technically it can handle boost, so if you want to go cheap and cheerful, Get a Sniper EFI and an eBay turbo kit and drive it until oil is gushing out of everywhere ( warning: This may happen immediately).  That might be the option for me (except for a non-eBay turbo/basketcase) to ensure that everything fits and works and doesn't leak or bang. Then take it apart, re-do the electrical, put a new intake on, and you know that it is all going to fit and work. 

 

The rest is straightforward things you would have to do to put EFI in any car. Like, convert the fuel system, put in a little bit more alternator, make sure you have reasonable clean grounds... blah blah blah. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 21, 2021 by Dudeland

[Lorin]

There is a guy around here that has done 6 or 7 sniper installs, he said he loves them. 

[NLPed]

Dudeland, I actually did read your blog and it didn’t deter me, LoL. I’m wondering if my Cannon intake would improve the puddling issue since it is an open plenum intake port vs the dual bore type?  I know I would still have to run the adapter, but maybe?

 

 

First pic is the intake i currently have vs the2nd pic of my original one like yours. 

[jimk]

38 minutes ago, Lorin said:

There is a guy around here that has done 6 or 7 sniper installs, he said he loves them. 

On 02s or big v8s?  V8s with drop down flow path don't have the same issue as an 02 down draft intake.

[Lorin]

19 minutes ago, jimk said:

On 02s or big v8s?  V8s with drop down flow path don't have the same issue as an 02 down draft intake.

On 2002s

[Dudeland]

11 hours ago, NLPed said:

Dudeland, I actually did read your blog and it didn’t deter me, LoL. I’m wondering if my Cannon intake would improve the puddling issue since it is an open plenum intake port vs the dual bore type?  I know I would still have to run the adapter, but maybe?

 

 

First pic is the intake i currently have vs the2nd pic of my original one like yours. 

I hogged mine out, thinking that taking out the extra cm or so of metal under the carb would help, but I found it didn't help at all. I think it ran differently/worse when I did do it. I was fiddling with a bunch of things at that time, so it is hard to tell if it was the tune or the change. 

 

The Canon manifold needed a heat jacket from a single barrel carb, and I couldn't get one in time, so I so I opted out as a cold intake is suitable for power but bad for fuel dropping out. I did take a monkey ball hone to it and smoothed out the inside of the runners. It was rather fun, but I don't think it made a difference. In fact after reading more, it was probably the wrong thing to do as a rough sided intake creates turbulence which may help keep things mixed. I also port-matched the intake to make sure everything flowed as smoothly and quickly as possible.  

 

BTW you can use an adapter used in pinto conversions to go from a weber to the Holley 500 pattern. I used one like this below. It works well. I did have to remove the transmission kick-down bracket on the Sniper throttle linkage; it was hitting something. It was no big deal to take it off. 

 

What I think would help is something at the bottom that would help direct the flow more evenly, rather than the sharp right hand turn. 

 

Somebody handy with a tig could likely fill it in and hone it out, but maybe the plenum volume and turbulence under the carb helps mixing? The EGR return goes in right at the bottom of the intake. It may be that shape it is because of the EGR, I am not sure.  I thought it would be a great place to squirt nitrous.  It seems like blowing directly down, then having to hang a hard left appears to beg the fuel to come out of suspension.   I think it was @Tobyor @jimk that mentioned that this may be an issue.  But many cars have a similar setup and still operate correctly. Perhaps 2.0L is just not enough air flowing. 

 

I did have the whole unit kick the bucket and had to send it out to get fixed. My AFR reading was pinned at 29 or something like that. The folks at Holley are fantastic, and in fact, one of their techs reached out to me on this forum to help me out. Heck, of a nice thing to do if you ask me.   

 

If you look in the reviews in the website below, somebody got this adapter to put a sniper EFI on a 74 2002.  Peter Beren from Overland Park, KS United States, if you are out there, please speak up!

 

We know where you work !!! LOL 

http://www.imagetruckpartners.com/team/peter-beren/

 

 

 

Link to an adapter. 

 

https://www.lceperformance.com/Adapter-Holley-500-to-Weber-Manifold-Adapter-Kit-p/1033021.htm

 

 

Regards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 22, 2021 by Dudeland

[xr4tic]

I seriously looked into the Retroject:

https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/15299-retroject-3838-throttle-body/

 

But my heart was set on ITBs, so that's the route I'm going (with Microsquirt EFI)

 

[NLPed]

I really haven't done anything to the Kumquat in quite awhile.  I have a bit of car ADHD and I've landed on another project truck and have been working on it ?

Edited March 27, 2021 by NLPed

[2002iii]

22 hours ago, NLPed said:

I really haven't done anything to the Kumquat in quite awhile.  I have a bit of car ADHD and I've landed on another project truck and have been working on it ?

That looks like a nice 68 C10, looks like you have it bagged and ready to lay frame. Is that a 350 or 383 stroker?

 

I built a 68 C10 longbed with my best friend about 10 years ago. We took out a tired old 327 and th400 and rebuilt and put in a 4 bolt main 350 and 700r4  with about 300hp to the rear wheels. It was lowered with mostly stock suspension and has a 4.11 posi and power steering added. Thing is a beast, does really nice burnouts and donuts lol.

[NLPed]

20 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

That looks like a nice 68 C10, looks like you have it bagged and ready to lay frame. Is that a 350 or 383 stroker?

 

I built a 68 C10 longbed with my best friend about 10 years ago. We took out a tired old 327 and th400 and rebuilt and put in a 4 bolt main 350 and 700r4  with about 300hp to the rear wheels. It was lowered with mostly stock suspension and has a 4.11 posi and power steering added. Thing is a beast, does really nice burnouts and donuts lol.

 

It has a full PorterBuilt setup front and rear with air ride, big Wilwood brakes. It’s actually a 468 cubic inch big block with a beefy 700r4 behind it and a built 12 bolt with an Eaton posi and3.42’s. That big torque motor should love the 3.42’s and might even get 10-12 mpg. ?

Edited March 28, 2021 by NLPed

[2002iii]

36 minutes ago, NLPed said:

 

It has a full PorterBuilt setup front and rear with air ride, big Wilwood brakes. It’s actually a 468 cubic inch big block with a beefy 700r4 behind it and a built 12 bolt with an Eaton posi and3.42’s. That big torque motor should love the 3.42’s and might even get 10-12 mpg. ?

I see lots of burnouts and fun in your future lol. 10-12 mpg if you pussy foot it and do mostly freeway driving.

 

468 big block with aftermarket quad throttle body injection should be sweet!

 

Are you keeping the old patina paint job?

Edited March 28, 2021 by 2002iii

[NLPed]

4 hours ago, 2002iii said:

I see lots of burnouts and fun in your future lol. 10-12 mpg if you pussy foot it and do mostly freeway driving.

 

468 big block with aftermarket quad throttle body injection should be sweet!

 

Are you keeping the old patina paint job?

Yes, I will keep the exterior paint intact. I’ll clean it up some, but nothing major. I bought from the estate of the original owner as the family didn’t want it ??‍♂️.  It was stuffed in a corner of a basement and had a license plate from 1984. It took me and 2 buddies about 4 hours to free it from that basement. 

 

Day one: