Early/Late "Dip" Switch Stalk Differences.

[PaulTWinterton]

For some reason I have an early high beam stalk on the left side of my steering column.  Being a 73, I believe it should be the larger knob, with or  without a graphic, I'm not sure.  Can someone help me confirm what I need and if it's readily available as a used part or is it a rare item?  RealOEM has it listed as "Dip control switch #61311352949.  ENDED.

 

Hey!  Maybe it's a swap.  Surely someone with an earlier car needs a correct stalk.  Once I get more input I will list under WTB (or swap) if necessary.

[jgerock]

2 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

For some reason I have an early high beam stalk on the left side of my steering column.  Being a 73, I believe it should be the larger knob, with or  without a graphic, I'm not sure.  Can someone help me confirm what I need and if it's readily available as a used part or is it a rare item?  RealOEM has it listed as "Dip control switch #61311352949.  ENDED.

 

Hey!  Maybe it's a swap.  Surely someone with an earlier car needs a correct stalk.  Once I get more input I will list under WTB (or swap) if necessary.

That is the early Roundie version like on my 69.  The two column stalks on IIRC pre-71 cars don’t have junction plug/receptacles.  The leads end in separate crimped connectors.

[halboyles]

Is the casting number 11532002.2  8347?  If so, then you have BMW part 61318648007 which should be for the 02s through '72(?).  The casting number you need is 1 352 957 8357/61.  It looks like the one in the pic without the wires cut off.  The early one, the one you have,  is still available at around $100.   The one you need is apparently NLA but I think I might have one.  Let me look and I'll get back to you.

 

Edited January 22, 2021 by halboyles

[PaulTWinterton]

19 minutes ago, halboyles said:

Let me look and I'll get back to you.

 

Cool!

[PaulTWinterton]

32 minutes ago, jgerock said:

That is the early Roundie version like on my 69.  The two column stalks on IIRC pre-71 cars don’t have junction plug/receptacles.  The leads end in separate crimped connectors.

 

I'll have to take a look at the wiring.

[PaulTWinterton]

3 hours ago, jgerock said:

The leads end in separate crimped connectors.

 

At first glance mine has separate spade connectors on the back of the stalk.  I haven't looked at the junction to car's harness.

Edited January 23, 2021 by PaulTWinterton

[Mike Self]

The knobs interchange (jellybean to truncated cone), and IIRC the wiring connections are the same, it's just the early cars have separate wires vs the plug on later ones.  If the spacing on the early dimmer switch's male terminals won't align with the plug on the later car, you can either make jumper wires to connect the two, or unplug the female terminals from the plug on the later car and plug 'em in separately.

 

mike

[bkdriveway]

I have the earlier stalk on my 73, which had fallen apart recently.  Purchased what I thought was the correct/identical part on Pelican (and thought I was lucky to find it!), but ended up getting the newer one, which features (what appear) threaded posts for the wires, whereas the old electrical connection plate was just solder points. 
 

Ok, well, not the end of the world. They appear to be interchangeable except for the wire connections, which are the same wires, just different way of connecting. 

I proceeded to clip and strip the wires from their solders on the old board. The wires are pretty old, copper strand seems fine, insulation brittle, but I got them disconnected. 
 

My question is, what’s the mechanism by which one should try to attach the exposed wires to the posts? Each post has a tiny threading hole - I was able to thread a couple, and once threaded, I just wrapped and crimped them with a plier. 
 

Ran in to trouble with the red / 30. Couldn’t thread it well, and ended up with the copper strands all frayed. 
 

Wondering a) are the threaded and “bent” wires I “succeeded” with sufficient on their posts? Should I solder all of them? Haven’t soldered before but not afraid to give it a go. 
 

What’s the move with the one I messed up? I thought maybe just purchase a little more wire (anyone know the gauge?) - trim back the twists, braid the new, either electrical tape, or solder that together, and try the same approach to thread the fresh wire to the post and clamp or wrap it? Or can I just take the frayed ends and clump them directly to the post with a solder?

 

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by bkdriveway

[mac]

When was the change from "jelly bean" to "truncated cone" stalk ends? 

 

Mac. 

[jgerock]

14 hours ago, mac said:

When was the change from "jelly bean" to "truncated cone" stalk ends? 

 

Mac. 

I believe for the 1971 model year along with the change from 6 to 12 fuses. 

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, jgerock said:

I believe for the 1971 model year along with the change from 6 to 12 fuses. 

+1

 

It was one of the Modell 71 upgrades that was placed into production in April 1971. Thus, early 1971 models (September 1970 to April 1971) had “jelly beans” while late 1971 models (April to August 1971) received “truncated cones”.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

[bkdriveway]

Noob q, but does anyone know what gauge the wires are coming out of the harness? Need to extend a couple of them a few millimeters...

[bkdriveway]

Going to try my luck with some 14 gauge speaker wire I have sitting around. If this is a bad idea, let me know, or be prepared for me to ask where I can buy replacement fuses.