Wallace

[zinz]

10 hours ago, majdomo said:

This is the higher flow, lower pressure Pierburg pump that has the 5/16 inch inlet and outlet,

 

First off, congrats on getting the car sorted and running nicely.

 

Word of warning on that new Pierburg pump.  The outlet nipple has been known to pop off and douse the engine bay with fuel (happened to me and others).  Read here:

You can stake the nipple into place with a sharp punch, or, Mint safety wired his across the clamps on the inlet and outlet.  Either way, I highly recommend you do either/or.  It would be horrible should that nipple pop off and your car catch fire.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

1 hour ago, zinz said:

Mint safety wired his

 

Like so--

 

Good move going back to a mechanical pump.

Tom

[majdomo]

1 hour ago, zinz said:

 

First off, congrats on getting the car sorted and running nicely.

 

Word of warning on that new Pierburg pump.  The outlet nipple has been known to pop off and douse the engine bay with fuel (happened to me and others).  Read here:

You can stake the nipple into place with a sharp punch, or, Mint safety wired his across the clamps on the inlet and outlet.  Either way, I highly recommend you do either/or.  It would be horrible should that nipple pop off and your car catch fire.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

WOW... just wow. How scary. Thanks for the heads up!! I will be peening that fitting in next time I’m in the garage, and then wiring the inlet / outlet clamps together when I’m finishing out the carbs to keep it belt and suspenders safe. The whole carb setup is coming out for cleaning and hopefully replacement of the 18 carb with a 2.

 

No excuses, that should never happen under any circumstance, but I do wonder why that happens. Does it just work its way loose, or could it pop off if it builds up too much back pressure between the carb and the fitting? 

[zinz]

58 minutes ago, majdomo said:

Does it just work its way loose, or could it pop off if it builds up too much back pressure between the carb and the fitting? 

 

Not sure?  Mine was brand new and only on the car a few weeks when it popped off.  It hosed gas all over the running engine...any spark would have lit it off.  Scary thought.

 

 

[majdomo]

Pulled my 40 DCOE 18 after receiving the other Tipo 2 from eBay (which looks great)...take a look at the sandy nasty float bowl from the 18... the other 2 still on the car is no better. Looks like I get to do some cleaning.

 

[majdomo]

Been waiting for parts to rebuild the carbs

and reroute the fuel lines, which finally showed up over the weekend and had a chance to do tonight. Blew through half a can of carb cleaner, but pulled out all the brass bits and ran cleaner through the whole thing. Replaced gaskets and filters, then installed new pulls for the throttle shafts. Fuel filter, new linkage, and new fuel lines are here, all that’s left is to clean up under the carbs and hook everything back up. Hope to be back on the road late this week. Not hard particularly, just a little dirty. At least it’s all contained and workbench-able. 
 

Have also been bit by the FJ80 bug lately. May swap out the 3rd gen......

[majdomo]

Carbs rebuilt and reinstalled, fuel lines rerouted and reinstalled, new linkage installed, and... I’m still having a high idle problem after spirited driving. Most of the research is pointing to float level, going to start there and resynch / retune at idle and see if that fixes it. However, it does stay around 900-1000 rpm when cold, so that’s good. It’s just after driving at speed (freeway) the issue comes up. Other problem may be fuel pressure is too high, or both. Will start with floats because that doesn’t involve dropping $ on a regulator.

 

Other minor stuff - oil changed, old transmissions sold, steering wheel shopping. Up between an E21 sport wheel and a Momo, kind of tired of the bus wheel. Got over to the pick-a-part yesterday and pulled a fuel filler inlet from an E30, so have that on the workbench to hacksaw and turn into a gas pump adapter for the 02. Already tried hitting up HBChris, he’s out of stock for now. Heater box valve was fixed a few weeks back by adjusting the valve arm to move about 1/8 inch closer to the end of the bowden cable sheath, spent about 20 min with my hand all wrenched in the plenum but better than pulling the box again.

 

Made it to cars and coffee yesterday as well. Neighborhood guy with a really nice tii came by, said that the most fun he had with his car was when it was all patina’d out like mine, and that now it’s kind of a pain in the butt to keep it clean and all that. Nice thing to say, I think, but not entirely untrue either. 

 

Mostly, though, just spending some time enjoying and driving, which has been great! The E30 needs some exercise, too. Replaced the odo gears last weekend, dropped a knurled nut down the side of the interior panel while pulling the cluster, got to rip out half of my interior to get it back. That was fun.

[majdomo]

High idle level seems solved, the problem was between the screwdriver and the carburetor. Tried adjusting the floats, which made it run better but created a bog at around 2k rpm that wasn't there before. My guess is that it was the acceleration jet plus the idle jet flooding a bit when making the transition to the main circuit due to the higher level of fuel in the bowl. High rpm driving was unaffected, so I put the floats back to 8.5mm / 15mm and then redid all my idle adjustments except balancing, which was fine before. That cleaned up the bog, but in adjusting the idle mixtures, I noticed that leaning them out made the car run better at idle... which meant those were too rich. That jibed with my foggy, unburnt fuel-smelling exhaust too when blipping the throttle by hand. Readjusted to best lean idle and knocked back the idle speed screw a touch (literally 1/16 of a turn or less), and all is happy.  Even sounds a bit quieter on the freeway, but I think that's just me getting old.

 

I haven't done any heavy analysis on jetting or chokes just yet. I'm running 32mm main chokes, 4.5mm aux venturis, and jetting is as follows (again on DCOE 2s)

Air corr - 180

Emulsion - F16

Main - 115

Acceleration - 40

Idle - 50F9

 

This seems a good balance of performance and efficiency from my research so far, but if any of the Weber guys out there have any feedback I'm open to it. I am running the K&N flat filters for now that barely fit, looking to maybe get some open trumpets to improve airflow... a

Edited June 16, 2020 by majdomo

[Chris_B]

This may be OBE, but fuel pressure has nothing to do with idle speed. Excessive fuel pressure, if it could overcome the needle valves in  your carbs (if so, determined in part by float adjustment) would cause your float bowls to flood out and ultimately your motor to die as excess fuel flooded into your venturies and into your motor. 

[majdomo]

48 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

This may be OBE, but fuel pressure has nothing to do with idle speed. Excessive fuel pressure, if it could overcome the needle valves in  your carbs (if so, determined in part by float adjustment) would cause your float bowls to flood out and ultimately your motor to die as excess fuel flooded into your venturies and into your motor. 

Cool, thanks. I definitely don’t want it flooding out, seems ok for now.

 

Also, pulled plugs earlier this evening and they are brownish tan, so that’s good. Have some new ones on order just because I have no idea how old they are, although the electrodes looked fine. New spark plug wires as well. Had a credit at Pelican.

[majdomo]

Replaced spark plugs, wires, valve cover gasket (finally) and those little corn kernel doodads on the door latches this afternoon. COVID quarantine drive, 40 minutes of twisties out Big Tujunga to ACH and home again in time for my next Zoom meeting. I could get used to this, if everything else didn’t suck so bad.

[majdomo]

Reaching a crossroads of sorts - I'd like to replace the door and rear quarter window seals, but that begs the question - are you going to paint the car soon or not? And realizing I don't really have an answer to that, I took advantage of some free space in my calendar today to take the car down to a shop in east LA for a quote. $5K gets me a glass-out, down to the bare metal respray in Polaris Neu (PPG) with any and all surface rust repaired, and structural rust mitigated (at least, what we can see - it's not much). I'd pull off the bumpers and all brightwork, while he'd have a glass guy come out for the front / rear windshields and side quarters. 2 weeks estimated downtime. We didn't get into the details on sills, but he would do the underside of the hood, the top of the front clip, and the trunk lid would come off. Would probably replace the front fenders, since those are toast as well.

 

Or, I go with springs and sways for the rest of the summer and don't worry about paint for a little while.

 

What says the FAQ??

[ray_]

It's your car.

 

Make a decision.

 

 

;-)

[majdomo]

4 hours ago, ray_ said:

It's your car.

 

Make a decision.

 

 

?

It's a split decision in the house. It's all going to get done eventually, but it may be most responsible (hah!) to hold off for a minute. May also get another quote, thinking that it's going to be this much or more.

 

Bought a modern head unit, and have that to noodle with for the next few days / week, anyway.

[Tommy]

I wouldn't rush with the paint. Just get the mechanical stuff sorted, take care of structural rust and enjoy the patina ?

Later when you have everything else done you could go for paint and for a nice paintjob engine etc. has to come out.