Starter problem

[roman.lysiak]

Ok, so I’ve hat everything back together ready to start after a 10 month nap, and the starter does not turn over. I hear a click like the solenoid engaging but the motor does not spin.

 

I found the ignition wire loose against the brake booster, I don’t think that that would cook anything. Put it back on the starter terminal and still just a click.

 

Is there a test I can do without taking it out. Starter is from a 80’s 5 series so it’s a bit bigger and difficult to get in there.

 

Could you cross the two main terminals to spin the motor? In neutral?

 

 

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['76mintgrün'02]

Is the battery fully charged?

 

Do you have a double ground strap that has one to the body and one to the block?

 

What sort of battery clamps/cables do you have?

 

These are often problematic...

[Simeon]

As Tom alludes to above, you may have just enough volts at the starter to pull in the solenoid but not enough to spin it up. 

 

Check all of the electrical connections at the battery and grounds but also put the car in 4th gear and push the car forward just to verify that the engine hasn’t frozen (it probably hasn’t). 

[roman.lysiak]

Left the trickle charger on over night.  Will see if it turns today.  All connections and terminals are new. Engine is good, have turned it over manual with no resistance. Ran like a charm last summer. Have grounds from alternator to body, battery to body. Will check the block ground. Where is the stock ground strap located?

[NYNick]

Put a meter on that battery before even trying to start it.

['76mintgrün'02]

The ground wire from the back of the alternator typically attaches to one of the little bolts on the front of the upper timing chain cover.  (as opposed to the body)

 

The ground from the battery to the block is usually attached right in front of the starter.

 

[roman.lysiak]

Ground



Hot


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[roman.lysiak]

So I had the ignition wire going to the top terminal and not the one hidden at the bottom of the solenoid.  Switched is and fired right up. Whats that top terminal for?

[roman.lysiak]

Top and bottom ignition wire terminals.

Back on the road



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[Simeon]

4 hours ago, roman.lysiak said:

So I had the ignition wire going to the top terminal and not the one hidden at the bottom of the solenoid.  Switched is and fired right up. Whats that top terminal for?

 

The top one will provide battery voltage direct to the coil to bypass the ballast resistance in the ignition when starting. 

[roman.lysiak]

 
The top one will provide battery voltage direct to the coil to bypass the ballast resistance in the ignition when starting. 

I’ve read back to this comment about the top terminal of the starter. Which bypasses the ballast. Trying to understand if this would be a good terminal to attach the AFR gauge to. Or looking on the underside of the fuse panel. Any thoughts?


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[roman.lysiak]

I’ve read back to this comment about the top terminal of the starter. Which bypasses the ballast. Trying to understand if this would be a good terminal to attach the AFR gauge to. Or looking on the underside of the fuse panel. Any thoughts?


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[John76]

The top terminal on the starter (#15) only supplies +12V to the + side of the coil when the starter is activated (ign. switch in START position). The reason for this is to supply a full 12 volts to the coil during cold start cranking . Otherwise, the coil is only getting about 10-11 volts while the engine is running (12 volts thru a .9 Ohm resistor wire). Full voltage is not needed during normal running....the coil will last almost indefinitely when operated at less than 14 volts!  I've heard many folks powering the coil with full operating voltage, and complain that they burn out their coil every 5k miles.

Connect your AFR gauge to the #3, #4 or #12 fuse. This will power the unit only when the ignition is ON.

[roman.lysiak]

The top terminal on the starter (#15) only supplies +12V to the + side of the coil when the starter is activated (ign. switch in START position). The reason for this is to supply a full 12 volts to the coil during cold start cranking . Otherwise, the coil is only getting about 10-11 volts while the engine is running (12 volts thru a .9 Ohm resistor wire). Full voltage is not needed during normal running....the coil will last almost indefinitely when operated at less than 14 volts!  I've heard many folks powering the coil with full operating voltage, and complain that they burn out their coil every 5k miles.
Connect your AFR gauge to the #3, #4 or #12 fuse. This will power the unit only when the ignition is ON.

Thanks John


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[PaulTWinterton]

12 hours ago, roman.lysiak said:

Any thoughts?

 

I found the most vexing problem was feeding the wires into the cabin from the (leftside) engine bay, plus I didn't really want to clutter up the leftside under-dash or engine bay.  I also wanted to put the AFR in the glove box to make it less distracting when not in use.

 

There is a body plug on the passenger side firewall behind the glove box that suits this need perfectly. Photo courtesy of @'76mintgrün'02. 

 

 

 

The AFR can be connected to the input side of the resistor for clean power when the key is on.  My AFR is fused so no need to go through the fuse box.  I was given a nifty double male electrical spade connector to attached 2 female connectors.  Works like a charm.