Need opinions...'74 tii

[joebarthlow]

Polaris + square tail lights = the best! ?

 

Tii = bonus points

 

charcoal = BBQ at your house!

Edited September 23, 2018 by joebarthlow

[Conserv]

1 minute ago, joebarthlow said:

Polaris + square tail lights = the best! ?

 

 

+1

 

Oh, yes, I forgot, until Joe reminded me!

 

Polaris rules! Below, my ‘76 in April 1977 and August 2018.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[I'm SpaghetTii]

polaris does rule.... I gotta fix that on mine.

I don't have the most experience (really not much at all, I'm still learning) but that car looks pretty good from what I can see in the pictures. don't let small issues like a snorkel scare you away from a nice tii. if anything it would just make you more afraid to drive it the way it was meant to be driven because of the chance of needing to replace an all original nose. Also definitely have someone go out and take a look at it first.. I didn't and now I have a 1972 tii conversion unintentional parts car for my 73tii. Ideally, you would want someone from the 02 community to check it out but it might not work out that way.

[Danz3]

Very nice original car. Like others have said snorkel to me is not important. My 74Tii has one but I'm sure the front panel was replaced.


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[j2002tii]

Looks like a great, unmolested car.  Rust should be the primary concern.  If it is as clean as it appears I would not hesitate to buy it for a fair price and because it is so unmolested I would pay a premium.  These cars are becoming more rare by the minute, especially the '74s which have been like the red headed step child.  They have been less desirable over the years so many became parts cars or junked because of restoration cost.  If you like square tails, this looks like a great car.  I am one of the minority that prefers the look of the square tail over the round tail, even with the large bumpers.  To each their own.  Far fewer square tails were made than round tails.  They are probably more rare because of lower production numbers and lower desirability.  That might change over time but all 2002's are cars that you will enjoy.  That's the key.

[Wexler]

1 hour ago, j2002tii said:

 If it is as clean as it appears I would not hesitate to buy it for a fair price and because it is so unmolested I would pay a premium. 

What would be a "fair" price?  I thought it was priced right, prior to the weld on the bumper mount concern (especially because he thought he had all the records on the car from the original owner - cosmetic repair is different than accident repair in my mind, PPI will determine I guess).  Good guy, and I don't want to haggle.

 

117k miles

assuming numbers match (but will confirm)

one re-spray about 25 years ago

exhaust leak

seats need re-stuffing

very slight bubbling, but from the pics I've seen (limited) these are cosmetic rather than structural

 

Thanks!

 

 

[dang]

I didn't see a price posted but that's all that matters at this point, for me at least.  I just bought this '74 tii.  Thought I'd make you feel better about that one... everything has a price.

 

 

Edited September 24, 2018 by dang

[JAS]

While I would double check the passenger side frame rail, I note the hood hinges are aligned.  If it did get poked in the nose and the frame rails weren't aligned properly or the new nose not installed correctly, odds are the hinge alignment would be different left versus right (ask me how I know). One upside of a new (replaced) nose (if that is what happened) is that there may be less rust in the chin spoiler area than original one would have (again, ask me how I know ?)

 

Fair price is subjective. The car looks solid. If you think the price is fair, jump on it.

 

 

[Conserv]

I’m not going to weigh in on price. I’m just throwing out two notes.

 

I have four very full volumes of receipts for my ‘76 (first photo), from day one. I’m not talking 20 receipts; I’m talking 200 receipts over 42 years and 105,000 miles. Interestingly — but perhaps not oddly — I’m missing receipts from any instance in which my insurance company paid for a repair. For example, my “nosepiece incident,” my “deer-ran-into-the-right-rear corner incident,” my “leaving-Rochester-in-a-snowstorm incident” (second photo), you get the idea. Why no receipts? When my insurance company was paying for the repair, I gave them the receipt. Period. No, I didn’t make a copy for my records. Why would I need a receipt if I wasn’t paying the bill?

 

I did not keep my other 200 receipts with the thought that I’d own the car 42 years later. I kept them for one reason: I wanted to wave them in the face of the dealer and say “Look, you’ve tried to fix this shifter vibration issue four times in the last year! When are you going to solve the problem?”

 

Second, are you planning to re-paint the ‘74 during your “tenure”? If so, the snorkel and sloppy weld — a by-product of the nosepiece replacement — can be “disappeared” easily. Unless there is evidence that one or both inner fenders has been replaced or heavily repaired, I wouldn’t give that nosepiece replacement another thought.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2018 by Conserv

[NYNick]

Well, Wexler, you've got plenty of input so far, all of it qualified. As the owner of a Polaris 74Tii non-snorkel that I'm restoring (tha has an unusual Gobi Tan interior), I'd recommend a THOROUGH examination of the following areas for rust: 

 

Pedal box-lift the carpet, pads etc and poke around down there. Also check under the car. Check again.

Passenger footwell-check where it meets the fender wall, and the floor

Back seat floors-again, under the carpets

Front fender wells, back portion where mud would get sprayed

Front lip, front lip, front lip. Did I mention front lip?

Rear Shock towers

Spare tire well

Rear subrame

 

FYI-right above the headlights on each side of the nose there should be a small vertical seam just below the hood. If not it's a dead giveaway work has been done to the car and the nose isn't original.

 

This car may be a driver, but it looks like it needs refreshing. When I say that, I mean the interior needs some love as I'm sure the suspension and mechanicals do as well. That could easily run you $5 to $10K depending on what you replace and who does the work, maybe more. With gorgeous 74Tii's going for mid $30's and up, that should give you a baseline for pricing. If this car is $15K, check for rust and then jump on it. If it's rusty and mid $20's I'd be thinking hard about it.

 

Rust is your enemy. Know thy enemy before you begin the war.

 

Good luck!

 

Nick

 

[joebarthlow]

2 hours ago, Wexler said:

What would be a "fair" price?  I thought it was priced right, prior to the weld on the bumper mount concern (especially because he thought he had all the records on the car from the original owner - cosmetic repair is different than accident repair in my mind, PPI will determine I guess).  Good guy, and I don't want to haggle.

 

117k miles

assuming numbers match (but will confirm)

one re-spray about 25 years ago

exhaust leak

seats need re-stuffing

very slight bubbling, but from the pics I've seen (limited) these are cosmetic rather than structural

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

I don't know what the the asking price is, but here's some thoughts:

 

Your PPI will determine a lot. Be sure to the inspection looks underneath at the suspension, steering box, wheel bearings and brake system. also the health of the floors, trunk and any other sheet metal exposed to the elements. Also check the seals around the transmission and rear differential (check for drips). Finding the right guy/shop to do the PPI won't be easy as they need to have a good understanding of the K-fish injection system.

 

Based on what we know and assuming it runs and stops fine, I believe Hagerty valuation would place it in the ballpark of the "Good" range for '74 Tii, which is about $25K, perhaps 10-15% less. Use the PPI to determine how much to come down. PPI should include estimate to repair the items.

 

The most important factor is "how bad do you want it?!"

 

 

Edited September 24, 2018 by joebarthlow

[saaron]

Listen to the people talking about rust.  

 

Also, if the KFish is wonky, it can either be it needs adjustment by people that know the KFish, or it needs some pretty expensive work.  KFish rebuilds and injectors can get expensive.  You need to call in the experts if that stuff needs attention. 

 

Hope it works out for you.    

 

Scott

[Steve Tochi]

I agree with others, the rhinoplasty shouldn't scare you away provided the car has good bones, and to me, matching numbers is critical if you're concerned about value.  I realized quickly you can't think of these cars as an investment or you're buying for the wrong reasons.  Most owners say "I'll never sell it" anyway so who cares what it might be worth now or in the future, my kids can sell mine when I'm pushing up worms.  With that being said, I have it on good authority a "perfect" 74Tii traded recently hands at $90K in an off market transaction. 

Side note, I've been telling my wife about escalating prices, she commented great, if the 529 fund isn't enough for kids college, we can just sell the car. Ouch!

"its hip to be square"

 

 

[02Les]

54 minutes ago, NYNick said:

 

FYI-right above the headlights on each side of the nose there should be a small vertical seam just below the hood. If not it's a dead giveaway work has been done to the car and the nose isn't original.

 

 

Hmmm, I thought the opposite was true. ie the joint was "tinned" and covered/not visible.

[Conserv]

17 hours ago, 02Les said:

Hmmm, I thought the opposite was true. ie the joint was "tinned" and covered/not visible.

 

+1

 

Nick,

 

I’m with Les on this: the short (3”?) fender-nosepiece seams above the side grilles were brazed and leaded by the factory, rendering them invisible. The fender-nosepiece seams below the side grilles were left fully exposed.

 

Below: the ‘76 in April 1977, showing factory fender-nosepiece seams.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited September 25, 2018 by Conserv