Ran When Parked.

[2002Scoob]

So.... I think I’m solidly looking at either a dizzy issue, or a faulty coil.

I went ahead and replaced all but 2 fuses with new ones (didn’t buy enough.... whomp whomp. Back to the store I go). I don’t think it was necessary, but they do look purty!


After that I pulled the cap up to check the rotor/contacts, and they look just fine to my eyes.




Followed by plugs, which look good, never quite got down exactly what to read and how- (front carb appears to be a bit lean... or rear rich? Meh. Doesn’t matter at the moment)

Immmobilizer off, and curve OK



Hooked up the little spark-detecting doomifloggies and lo-and behold, no light-show.

So as a second test I hooked up my timing light to also check individually in case the sparky things weren’t working, also no light-show.

So as I see it- power is getting to coil, and coil to the dizzy, but no spark is getting out of the dizzy...

My next step is to borrow the voltage tester this evening to check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings to confirm if they’re out of spec, and that should tell me if I have a bad coil, or an issue with the dizzy, or the cable going from the coil to dizzy.

Deeper down the rabbit hole I go!



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[zinz]

unpower the 123 and power it back up again?  (famous IT fix... "did you turn it off and turn it back on again?")

 

I would also reach out to 123 for tech support

 

Ed

 

 

[jrhone]

5 minutes ago, zinz said:

unpower the 123 and power it back up again?  (famous IT fix... "did you turn it off and turn it back on again?")

 

I would also reach out to 123 for tech support

 

Ed

 

 

 

Yes is there a factory reset? U have a mechanical dizzy you can swap in temporarily?  

[2002Scoob]

30 minutes ago, jrhone said:

U have a mechanical dizzy you can swap in temporarily?

 

I think it's long been retired to the bottom of the neighbor's pool...haha. 

 

Checking the coil will confirm the next link in the chain, if the resistance #'s check out then I'll start looking at potential dizzy problems. 

[2002Scoob]

Well.... coil seems fine. Couldn’t find a spec for the secondary winding, but the primary was showing 3ohms.

Ends of the lead from the coil to dizzy seemed to be bottomed out and solid... in gunna try a new lead tomorrow as I should have a spare, then investigate the dizzy or a poor ground perhaps? I’m mildly doubtful a ground is the case... not impossible, but I’ve taken pretty good care when u put everything together pay attention to such things.




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[Simeon]

There is a factory reset for the 123. Search on here for it and check my thinking but I think it is something like putting 12V on the black wire. 

 

You might need to reload your curves. 

[VWJake]

I'll apologize in advance if this has all been covered. I'm drinking bourbon so I'm gonna just plow forward and share my thoughts.

 

Setup:

Timing light on the coil lead. Verify 12v+ to pos side of coil with key in fahrt position. Trigger on timing light engaged. Jumper wire from ground. Disconnect "points" lead from dist. to coil .

 

Tap jumper to neg term on coil. if no flash, replace coil wire and retest. If spark-stop, no spark- replace coil.

 

I would think you could set the meter to an audible continuity setting and attach it to the "points' lead of the dist. and a good ground. Crank the engine and listen for the tone indicating a completed circuit that would/should fire the coil provided there is 12v+ on the other side of the coil key on.

[Simeon]

Under the cap on the 123 is a green light that is used during set up. If you crank it and try and see the light it should flash if things are working properly. Might need a mirror or be a gymnast to see it. 

[VWJake]

53 minutes ago, Simeon said:

Under the cap on the 123 is a green light that is used during set up. If you crank it and try and see the light it should flash if things are working properly. Might need a mirror or be a gymnast to see it. 

Or a momentary contact switch with 2 leads and alligator clips. Just a thought 

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Simeon is correct... remove the black wire from the (-) Coil and apply 12V to black wire for 15 seconds to reset the 123 memory:

http://123ignitionusa.com/blue-tooth-trouble-shooting-and-reset/

Blue Tooth Trouble Shooting and Reset

 

Problems connecting to the Bluetooth?

Sending feedback via the feedback tab at the bottom of the settings page is highly recommended. This sends a log file to the IT department at the factory. You can also try some of the following tips.

A solid blue light indicates that Bluetooth is working.

A flashing blue light indicates no connection.

1) To Reset: move the black wire to the + side of the coil and turn on the power until you get a solid blue light. This will reset the unit but not delete the stored curve.

2) In some cases you may need to delete the app and reinstall. Make sure you delete the cache memory on the phone before you reinstall the app.

3) If you have trouble with the app storing points that you did not program into it. Make sure the starting rpm is 500 and the last rpm is 8000

4) Although the app will allow 10 points It is best to limit to 5 or 6 points

[Simeon]

9 minutes ago, VWJake said:

Or a momentary contact switch with 2 leads and alligator clips. Just a thought 

 

Its more getting the angle right to see the light past the whizzing rotor. 

 

I assumed the use of either a remote starter or a willing assistant. 

[VWJake]

Ahhh I hadn’t considered that. 

[2002Scoob]

1 hour ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Simeon is correct... remove the black wire from the (-) Coil and apply 12V to black wire for 15 seconds to reset the 123 memory:

http://123ignitionusa.com/blue-tooth-trouble-shooting-and-reset/

Blue Tooth Trouble Shooting and Reset

 

Problems connecting to the Bluetooth?

Sending feedback via the feedback tab at the bottom of the settings page is highly recommended. This sends a log file to the IT department at the factory. You can also try some of the following tips.

A solid blue light indicates that Bluetooth is working.

A flashing blue light indicates no connection.

1) To Reset: move the black wire to the + side of the coil and turn on the power until you get a solid blue light. This will reset the unit but not delete the stored curve.

2) In some cases you may need to delete the app and reinstall. Make sure you delete the cache memory on the phone before you reinstall the app.

3) If you have trouble with the app storing points that you did not program into it. Make sure the starting rpm is 500 and the last rpm is 8000

4) Although the app will allow 10 points It is best to limit to 5 or 6 points

 

Thanks! That's another thing worth giving a shot. 

 

I had read that troubleshooting blurb on their site and assumed that it had more to do with Bluetooth connectivity issues and less to do with actually sending spark to the motor. 

 

If that ends up being the fix, it's a good one to know!

 

Cheers,

-J

 

 

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Bluetooth connectivity is easy, just turn Bluetooth on your phone or iPad off/on, and it reconnects. 

Looks like your curves are still saved, so I'd be surprised if that's it.  Their t-shooting points the finger at the coil...

 

Trouble Shooting

 

Now that you have one of the best ignitions available for your Classic car you will no doubt want the experience to be the best. So why not make the ignition system the best it can be by adding new plugs, wires and a coil of not less than 1 Ohm.

1.) A lot of problems are caused by a bad primary ignition circuit, specially high rpm problems. 
This means the circuit: Battery (+) --> Contact switch --> Coil (+) --> Coil (-) --> Ignition (black wire) --> Ignition to ground (minus (-) of the battery must all be in top shape.
This total circuit has a very low resistance. For example 3 Ohm when you use a Bosch blue coil or 1,8 Ohm with a Bosch red coil.
You will get a weak spark when there is a bad connection (resistance) somewhere in this circuit (for example a bad contact switch or a bad connection between the ignition and the battery (-).

2.) Never trust old coils as they may have been subjected to overheating which would damage the coil.

3.) Most cars are well along in years and have had multiple owners so what you see is not always correct in the wiring. Make sure the correct wires are going to the +ve and -ve side of the coil. While the car may run with the old points if the wires have been crossed it can keep the 123ignition from functioning properly.

4.) Weak Spark, Use a good quality spark plug wire if you have a weak spark. Check all connections in the ignition circuit for bad connections. I would check the voltage of the coil under load. Emphasize there needs to be good connections everywhere. Also check the GND and try another coil.

5.) Re check your wiring. On TUNE models the Blue wire (curve 1) goes to a good ground. The yellow wire goes to a power source (6 or 12v) and when it is energized provides curve 2.

6.) Light bulb test in the car. Basicly you are replacing the Coil with the light bulb for the test.

 

[2002Scoob]

So I had a call with one of the guys up at 123, and they stated to check 2 things- 

 

1- That spark is leaving the coil by attaching a spark-plug lead to the coil and discharging it to the engine. 

 

2- Check the rotor for failures, as he said it's possible that if it had, it could be grounding through the shaft of the dizzy itself. 

 

He also commented on how the ignition disabling feature works, that it'll actually facilitate a handful of sparks before it'll quit. It was actually the first thing he asked, whether I was able to get a spark signal at all or the motor actually firing and then quitting. Given that I've got neither, the immobilizer feature likely isn't the problem? I also got the impression that the reset function does not affect the dizzy's ability to fire, it only helps if you aren't able to connect via bluetooth to your device. (not an issue)

 

I do have a question, when attempting the Coil-spark-plug-grounding procedure, I only need to have the car in 'run' and it should be able to discharge, I don't need any additional signal or to be cranking the motor, no?

 

Unfortunately I don't have the benefit of a 'helper' to crank while i do things, I'm a one-man show

Edited March 15, 2018 by 2002Scoob