De-smogging questions....again??!!

[Conserv]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

 

Steve, doesn't your '76 have its original #164 Bosch, with vacuum advance ?

 

John's CA '76 has the original Adv/Rtd model, no?

 

I remember the photo you posted of the sales brochure, but maybe they goofed in that publication(?)

 

I am still confused.

Tom

 

Tom,

 

You are right: the ‘76 49-state appears to be vacuum advance.  I trusted the wrong source.

 

First photo:  obligatory historical photo of my ‘76’s distributor in August 1983.

 

Second photo:  April 2015 photo of the distributor, confirming JFU4, 0 231 170 164 model, original to my car, VIN 2742541 (49-state version, manual transmission, manufactured April 23, 1976).

 

Third photo:  wrong source — January 1976 (“1/76”) U.S. 2002 brochure, stating “Ignition distributor with centrifugal advance and vacuum retard system”.

 

Fourth and fifth photos:  right source? — July 1975 (“VII. 75”) Owners handbook, U.S.-spec supplement for the 1976 models.  Second paragraph begins “In addition to the centrifugal advance, a vacuum advance mechanism is used.”  Fifth paragraph, in addition, reads “Only the engine for manual gears in the California version is further equipped with a vacuum retard mechanism.”

 

So...precisely as you say, 1976 49-state is vacuum advance whereas 1976 California version is vacuum advance and retard.

 

Oh, wait, where does this leave us with the automatic transmission 1976 models?  ?

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

Edited October 13, 2017 by Conserv

[Simeon]

I am sure Toby has said something like '100 models of distributor but only one camshaft!'

['76mintgrün'02]

ah, but then there is the '76 only #5 camshaft !

 

I think c.d. said something like, 'in '76 they'd perfected them, so they quit making them.'

 

[Roland]

5 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

ah, but then there is the '76 only #5 camshaft !

 

I think c.d. said something like, 'in '76 they'd perfected them, so they quit making them.'

 

 

Has anyone ever confirmed the alleged difference between this cam other than the imprinted number five?  FWIW, realoem does not make the distinction and only lists one part number:  11310631014. 

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/57034-2002-ti-camshafts/?do=findComment&comment=562440

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/57034-2002-ti-camshafts/?do=findComment&comment=562424

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/163071-comparing-m10-cams-bmw-and-schrick/

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/121959-rare-cam-delong/

 

 

 

 

[Hodgepodge]

Regarding my distributor, here is an image of my distributor, along with some of offending emissions stuff.  This is not a CA car, so I think this is a standard unit with a vacuum advance.  I have de-greased the engine twice now to remove oil from what appears to be a decade-old valve cover gasket leak, but the gunk persists.  (Yesterday when I parked, fresh oil leaking onto the hot exhaust manifold gave the impression that the car was on fire.)    I have to pull the valve cover off to check valve clearances soon anyway, so this leak will be fixed as part of that.  Just another item on the long list of engine to-do items....  

 

I've ordered a stainless steel, ceramic coated shorty header from Ireland Engineering along with new studs, bolts and a heat shield.  (That place is like a candy store...)   The only parts I don't have are whatever I may need to seal off the intake manifold openings. 

 

Are there intake manifold plugs I can order, or should I just wait and go over to the local parts store once I know what I need?  

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

14 minutes ago, Hodgepodge said:

here is an image of my distributor, along with some of offending emissions stuff.  This is not a CA car, so I think this is a standard unit with a vacuum advance.

 

That distributor has the combination pod, with Adv/Rtd.  What number is stamped into the side of it?

 

As John mentions above, you should remove the electric vacuum switches and disconnect the vacuum retard line from the back side of the vacuum pod and run the vacuum advance line over to the ported vacuum nipple, which comes off the base of the carb, just above the throttle plates.

 

There is a large o-ring on the distributor body that may need replacing, as well as a special sealing washer on one of the little bolts that mount the distributor flange.  Those could be contributing to your oil mess.

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

3 hours ago, Roland said:

Has anyone ever confirmed the alleged difference between this cam other than the imprinted number five? 

I had measured the lobes to some degree (crudely) and posted my results on here.

I made a little magnetic degree wheel, to stick on the front.

The input I received on here was that it was "more lift than stock, but less than a 292"

[Roland]

1 hour ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

The input I received on here was that it was "more lift than stock, but less than a 292"

 

Danke  For some unexplained reason I missed your info. 

[Mark92131]

2 hours ago, Hodgepodge said:

Regarding my distributor, here is an image of my distributor, along with some of offending emissions stuff.  This is not a CA car, so I think this is a standard unit with a vacuum advance

 

That should be the standard 1975 unit that has advance and retard on the pod.  The white hose is the retard connection and the black hose is the advance connection.  If you are going to keep that distributor, plug the retard port on the pod and run a hose from advance connection on the pod to ported vacuum on the Weber carb, (passenger side of the Weber just above the throttle plates at the base of the carb).

 

Mark92131

 

 

 

 

[Hodgepodge]

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

 

That should be the standard 1975 unit that has advance and retard on the pod.  The white hose is the retard connection and the black hose is the advance connection.  If you are going to keep that distributor, plug the retard port on the pod and run a hose from advance connection on the pod to ported vacuum on the Weber carb, (passenger side of the Weber just above the throttle plates at the base of the carb).

 

Mark92131

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much, Mark!  Your explanation is concise and very helpful!   I am anxiously awaiting what feels like a room full of parts to arrive so I can start working on this engine.  I have a couple of other cars where the spare parts take up more room than the car and I'm guessing this one will be the same.  

[Mark92131]

7 minutes ago, Hodgepodge said:

Thank you very much, Mark!  Your explanation is concise and very helpful!

 

No worries...

 

Here's my write-up (Check List) on Smog Equipment Removal (1975-76).  It might be useful...

 

Mark92131

 

Smog removal

 

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

M.

[John76]

I believe the smog equipment was the same for all '75 (49-state and CA) and '76 California models. The  '76 49-state models did not have EGR or the vacuum retard on the dizzy...just the advance.

 

PS: Use the green/white wire(s) in the blue sheathed harness to power your electric choke and idle shut-off solenoid. The green/white wire gets a full 12V at all times when the ignition is on, and it is protected by a 8A fuse. The black/red and resistor wire to the + side of the coil is not.

[Hodgepodge]

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

 

No worries...

 

Here's my write-up (Check List) on Smog Equipment Removal (1975-76).  It might be useful...

 

Mark92131

 

Smog removal

 

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

M.

This is the best checklist I've seen yet.  Very detailed and complete!   Thanks!   

[Hodgepodge]

15 minutes ago, John76 said:

I believe the smog equipment was the same for all '75 (49-state and CA) and '76 California models. The  '76 49-state models did not have EGR or the vacuum retard on the dizzy...just the advance.

 

PS: Use the green/white wire(s) in the blue sheathed harness to power your electric choke and idle shut-off solenoid. The green/white wire gets a full 12V at all times when the ignition is on, and it is protected by a 8A fuse. The black/red and resistor wire to the + side of the coil is not.

My understanding is that the '76 models didn't have a lot of this stuff because of the new heads.  

 

The Weber 32/36 on this car is a DGV and the PO connected it properly to the cable pull at the steering wheel.   I'll use green/white for the selenoid.  Thanks!    

[Conserv]

6 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

I had measured the lobes to some degree (crudely) and posted my results on here.

I made a little magnetic degree wheel, to stick on the front.

The input I received on here was that it was "more lift than stock, but less than a 292"

 

Yes, sir, Tom,

 

My ‘76 49-State version got the 3.90 “stump-puller” diff and the super-hot “less than a 292” camshaft.  No wonder all the Priuses just run and hide....?

 

(And no stinkin’ vacuum retard either!)

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited October 13, 2017 by Conserv