Heater Valve Rebuild Woes

[bkerr]

Has anyone has any success with the heater valve rebuild kits from Blunt Tech?  Perhaps I'm doing something wrong, but I have tried two kits and antifreeze is leaking on the heater adjustment side of the valve. A few months ago after replacing my first one, I noticed that my passenger side mats were wet.  After further examination I traced the leak back to the valve.  The plastic slot on the adjustment side was warped causing the antifreeze to trickle right past the rubber washer.  I replaced the second one today careful to lub all parts and sand the valve core and a bit of the plastic filler part, to no avail.  After spending a good part of the day working on the valve ( box out of course) I reassembled and same problem.  Fluid is trickling down from the valve into the car .  Any suggestions? Frustrated from today's events and need some encouragement.

Thanks,

brian 

[Simeon]

Have you contacted Blunt?  He is a good guy who will stand by his product. Perhaps the instructions are not comprehensive enough which is what happens with hobby level part production. Objective and fair feedback is the key to product development here. 

[Ferrance]

I fixed my leak by installing a PEX valve, a bit of trouble to open and close but no trace of a leak!

[7502]

'75 base model. Spent the morning rebuilding my heater control valve using the kit from Blunt and mine is also leaking. I cleaned the valve thoroughly, removing all traces of the larger diameter O ring which had deteriorated. The old set up never leaked but it also didn't properly close the valve so I had heat all the time.  Mine leaks when the valve is in the open position, when closed, it may be ok. Took a  test dive and it was super nice not to get hot air coming from the heater all the time so it's stopping the water flow into the core but the darn leak is going to make me pull it and start over. Looks like the smaller diameter O ring is thinner than the original one. And the larger diameter O ring may be too thin as well.  I've read some post regarding the O rings and is it sounds like a good hardware store might have something that will work better.  One step forward, two steps back.....

[Dudeland]

On 6/5/2017 at 8:47 PM, Ferrance said:

I fixed my leak by installing a PEX valve, a bit of trouble to open and close but no trace of a leak!

Do you have any pictures?

[Ferrance]

Dudeland, send me your e-mail address and I'll send you a photo.  Also, check out the various PEX valves at the closest plumbing supply house.

Fran Ferrance

ferrance@aol.com

[Dudeland]

pm sent

 

[KFunk]

I just used o-rings from a hardware store for a couple bucks.  Opt for bigger/thickest one you can fit.  Use silicone grease to complete the seal.

[halboyles]

I would be leery of using just any o-ring from a local hardware store.  This is one of those jobs you don't want to do more than once.

 

I use the metric Buna-N versions from:  http://www.theoringstore.com/.  Measure the diameter of the slot the o-ring fits in and the thickness and chances are this site will have it.

The tech support here is very helpful and informed also.

[halboyles]

Oops, forgot to add the chart of chemical resistance.

[PaulTWinterton]

51 minutes ago, halboyles said:

I use the metric Buna-N versions from:  http://www.theoringstore.com/.  Measure the diameter of the slot the o-ring fits in and the thickness and chances are this site will have it.

The tech support here is very helpful and informed also.

 

Although I have the early style of valve, the new rubber seals have worked perfectly.  I tried plumbing stores (in Vancouver BC) and found nothing that would fit.

 

It's been a few years but it was an FAQ member who sent me a set of the proper spec and I've had no leaks at all.  Next time I have a leak I'll buy a bunch from TheOringStore and share them with friends and members.

 

Sorry for your frustration guys.  Good luck.

 

On 6/5/2017 at 4:38 PM, bkerr said:

antifreeze is leaking on the heater adjustment side of the valve

 

Small o-ring?  I would suspect that either the shaft or the body of the valve has excessive wear or is scored in some way for fluid to seep past the seal.

[KFunk]

4 hours ago, halboyles said:

I would be leery of using just any o-ring from a local hardware store.  This is one of those jobs you don't want to do more than once.

 

 

Did it twice, as the first one I bought was a tad too thin and tight of a fit, and it barely dripped just a bit.  That's why I said to opt for the thicker one, which has done fine for many years.

[7502]

Hit the hardware store and bought new black rubber O rings, hope they are compatible with a hot glycol solution.  Second times the charm. No leaks, bone dry in open or closed positions. Also a good excuse to get out the Brasso as well. Wow, sure is nice to have that valve working properly. Hot air is noticeably hotter while the cold air is nice and cool. The heat on this car sure beats the Karmann Ghia! 

[SydneyTii]

Guys my  kit also leaks, which I could fix with a larger o ring ...maybe?

However what I am also concerned about is the amount of movement of the centre shaft which the arm and Bowen attach to.

Should there be any movement in the pivot shaft through the valve body? And if there is would that infer the slot in the new plastic insert inside the valve is not machined flat enough where the stainless pivot sits.

im assuming that a lager o ring may help remove the gap, the one in the kit is thin and doesn't extend past its mounting recess and thus does not "pre load" (poor term) the large plastic part.

Any ideas would be great, I've read this topic extensively and it appears they are dry aka Marshalls install or leak around the pivot.

 

[Schon '02]

The width of the teflon plug is equal to the internal width of the brass valve body. The stainless steel shaft and its seat is designed to be sandwiched between the side of the Teflon plug and brass valve body. It’s important that the internal brass valve body be free of any corrosion preventing the full insertion of the teflon plug. The plug and stem should then smoothly rotate, but not have any wobble or radial movement. Polishing the inside of the valve is helpful IMO.

 

Note that there are various versions of brass heater valves, so your version may be more susceptible to issues. You made no comment on where your valve leaked (at the stem or the cover). Pictures would be helpful.