How do I reinstall idler arm bushings???

[jgerock]

On 5/18/2017 at 3:34 PM, 72ITB said:

I removed the black insert and used a razor blade to add more taper to the edge of the blue plastic and then tapped them in with a plastic mallet. It did not look like they would fit but this worked.

+1.  I put the blue outer shell in first then tapped the inner black bushing.

 

That torque specification is too high.  I tightened the nut so there wasn't any play up and down but the rotational force was even (not tight).

[worzella]

Just read Jim's reply above. Even though I verified the torque number as the BMW manual says, I believe Jim has a much more practical approach. Remove the up/down play, but let the rotation be even/snug but not tight. 

 

Randy 

[2002#3]

I tightened the idler arm to the point of removing any vertical or horizontal play.  Probably a little less than 10 ft lbs.  Operates smoothly and probably as intended.  58 ft lbs has to be a major misprint.  Thanks, Jim and Randy, for the input re: reasonable tightness/torque.

Larry

[NYNick]

I'm going out to the garage to check my recently installed bushing. The subframe is still out of the car, but I seem to remember I couldn't move it hardly at all. Now you guys have me thinking...I guarantee you I torque it to the quoted spec...damn.

Edited June 4, 2018 by NYNick

[2002#3]

Nick,

Please keep us posted.  I know the engineering and leverage of the steering box and associated steering parts are well designed and strong; however, 58 lbs really, really tightens that arm and, in my mind, will superbly tax the aforementioned components.  Maybe I am wrong.

Larry

[Mark92131]

On 6/3/2018 at 4:07 PM, 2002#3 said:

Probably a little less than 10 ft lbs.

 

The idler arm bushings I got from Wallothnesch came with instructions to torque to 10nM (7.5 ft/lbs).  58 ft/lbs, sounds correct for the connection of the idler arm and steering box arm to the center link.

 

Mark92131