Spring Replacement Installation

[M4dMax]

I am looking to replace my springs with Ireland stage 2.  I have never changed springs before and I cannot find any how to articles.  Looking for advice on how difficult of a switch this will be?  Will I need a spring compressor for either the front or back?  Already have the springs but will I also need new pads.  I am looking to get it a little lower.  If anyone knows of a video or can point me in the right direction it is greatly appreciated. 

[TobyB]

It's not too hard.  A compressor makes it a lot easier.

 

If your ball joints and bushings in front are not relatively new, I'd suggest looking at them carefully before you start-

now's the time to do 'em if they're rivetted in, or show wear.  Then it's easiest to drop the entire strut,

(detach and hang the brake caliper first) and do the spring change off the car.  The compressor is very useful for getting things apart.

You'll probably want new dampers, too...

 

In back, you just use a jack to relieve pressure on the shock.  You'll probably need to unhook the rear halfshaft.

You won't need to recompress the Ireland spring- in fact, you may need to strap the suspension to keep the spring in place.

And you should look at the rear bushings while you're in there...

 

welcome to scope creep!

 

t

 

[NYNick]

You'll need a spring compressor for the fronts. I got mine from Autozone on the loaner program....all the auto supply stores loan tools. Might as well replace the ball joints. There's a thread about how to get that nut off....not easy. Bluntech sells the ball joints.

 

Otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Search youtube for some videos of other people doing other cars. It'll help with your learning curve. Then search search search.

['76mintgrün'02]

perhaps you should add your location to your signature line.

I would gladly lend you my spring compressors, if we were neighbors.

 

The pads in back are thick and durable, but the fronts are very thin and tend to degrade; especially the bottom ones.

There was a recent thread about the front pads, in which I learned that all four are the same.

+1 for Blunttech.

 

Mike Self's advise to enlarge the drain hole in the bottom spring cup is wise.

I have found pebbles sitting in that hole on my car.

 

Scope creep can be a good thing, if you plan for it; but it can be frustrating, if you do not order the parts you will need in advance.

Take a close look at all of the rubber bits up there, including the strut mounts.

The "while you are in there" approach makes sense... although it can get a little expensive.

I could have saved a lot on postage, with a little more foresight.

[Son of Marty]

When you disassemble the the strut top keep track of the order and orientation of all the small parts they need to go back together in order and facing the same way for happy steering.

['76mintgrün'02]

There is a photo showing the orientation of the small parts in this post--

( along with some other excellent pics )

[thinksound_mike]

I used rubber tubing instead of spring pads on the fronts (upper & lower). I bought new urethane rears from IE to level out the car. You will need spring compressors. I bought some from Harbor Freight for $15 and have used them in creative ways for other things like bushing installs.

Edited February 5, 2017 by thinksound_mike

[m6smitten]

      From a previous post I refer to all the time-

 

On ‎11‎/‎1‎/‎2013 at 0:21 PM, AustrianVespaGuy said:

This is actually a project that I'm just about to embark on also so while we're on the topic I'd like to verify what seems to be the consensus as to the proper method.  Please correct any steps that aren't right:

1.) Jack up, jack stands, etc.

2.) Remove wheel and brake caliper (hang out of the way, no need to disconnect hydraulics)

3.) Cut the safety wire and undo the three bolts holding the strut to the control arm

4.) Separate tie rod end from front knuckle.

5.) Undo three top mount bolts on top of fender well

6.) Remove if enough clearance, if not, go to steps 7 and 8.

7.) Disconnect stabilizer bar link from control arm

8.) Disconnect control arm and radius link from front subframe.

 

That all sound right?  Also, does anyone know where to get new spring pads/seats?  I figure I ought to replace those while I have everything apart.  Thanks!

 

-Carl

delete items 4,7 and 8.

 

two caliper bolts, three lower strut bolts, three upper strut nuts and take it out.

 

edit....and the one little bolt that holds the brake hose bracket to the strut....i forgot about that one as i don't use it on my car.