body and interior Help! Is it made of rust?

[AceAndrew]

I'm interested in what was covered in the PPI.  Was this BMW tech familiar with 2002's? 

[Glengoolie Blue]

12 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Yes 3M makes the same thing, these are the bomb for stripping paint and rust off flat surfaces, but I would hesitate to use it on the tar sound deadening I'm afraid it would just clog up and you would have to toss it but once the tar is gone have at it

 

Yes, I went to Lowes and picked up a couple but it looks like they may be the wrong size for my cheapo angle grinder. Going back to have another shot at it.

 

12 hours ago, pklym said:

I can understand a PPI missing some hidden rust, but the rust by the pedals should have been caught. That's garbage. Good luck.

 

48 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

I'm interested in what was covered in the PPI.  Was this BMW tech familiar with 2002's? 

 

To be fair to the guy that did it, he did mention (one) rust hole near the accelerator pedal. He told me it was minor and shouldn't dissuade me from buying. However, this same guy had just replaced the pedal bushings a couple months before the PPI so I feel sure that he knew more than he let on. Good dude, but I think in this case because he knew both the buyer and seller, he wasn't capable of being impartial. My fault as much as his...

 

3 hours ago, vacca rabite said:

Rust is the original transformer.  There is always more then meets the eye.

 

Once you get ALL the tar off (either heat or dry ice) start attacking it with wire wheels or muriatic acid.  

Use some of that 4500 and buy a MIG welder and auto-dark helmet.  By the time you are done with your car you will know how to weld.  Hiring someone will be faster but cost more, and you wont learn how to weld.

 

This will be messy work, but its very doable.

 

For motivation - go to youtube and look up Project Binky.  They dude is fantastic at fabricating and I you will learn a TON about welding and how to make and fit patch panels.

 

There was also a Datsun 240Z series on youtube many years ago.  It was my "project Binky" teaching aid.  Learned so much by watching them. 

 

If I can do this stuff, anyone can.

Zach

 

 

 

Haha we'll see about the welding. I'm setting to work now removing more tar and then will decide once the surface rust is stripped. Will definitely be checking out the youtube videos you recommended. Gonna need all the motivation there is!

 

Thanks Zach

 

Thanks

[Glengoolie Blue]

2 hours ago, ray_ said:

Not that you need the pieces specifically, but Walloth Nesch carries floor pans and most everything else, and shipping is quick and reasonable. https://www.wallothnesch.com/karosserie-blechteile/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/katalogbild-41-04.html

 

Note the front pan does not extend all the way to the pedal box.

 

If your rockers and shock towers and other structurally related pieces are solid, don't fret too much,

 

Yet.

 

Cheers,

 

Dank sehr viel für die hilfreiche Website-Link!!

[Glengoolie Blue]

Thanks very much for all the interest and helpful replies! I will be spending the rest of the day scraping and grinding. Will take some pictures of the car and post tonight!

 

Stew

[Glengoolie Blue]

Question, before I start using the heat gun around these hoses which appear to both have something to do with the gas tank, what sort of precautions should I be tanking? Can I disconnect them for now? What do they go to? Seems like the fuel line is all that should be coming from the tank?

Stew


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[vacca rabite]

The brownish one is a plastic fuel line. Be careful around it. I pulled it out of my car and have yet to put it back. So long as it's flexible it should be fine. If it's brittle pull it and replace!  Fire hazard. 

[Son of Marty]

Both lines are made to melt shut in case of fire keep them well away from your heat gun or they may melt.

[MildSeven]

Cold is much, much better than heat for the tar (on the floors), for the behind rear bench, heat worked fine.

The pieces chip out instead of melting out, much cleaner.

FYI, Even a little tar residue will have an ill affect on the wire brush, wasn't fun.

 

I think some of the rust you have there looks worse than it is... and a grinder will help you.

 

When I started on my 2002, I didn't know much either, now I don't know much but I almost have a nice 2002. good luck.

 

for reference (the photos of rust on my 2002): https://flic.kr/s/aHsk9bDyAZ

Edited September 8, 2016 by MildSeven

[TobyB]

Cold and heat both work on tar, in very different ways.  Try cold first.  Some tar it removes almost completely,

some it just helps a lot with.

 

Heat is then an easy way to make the scraping both faster and more aeromatic.

 

That's just a bit of mild surface rust.  

 

Simeon's strippy pads are NOT meant to go into an angle or die grinder- rather, you want a drill

or something else that does 4000 rpm, NOT 10,000!  They explode at about 5500- yes, I tried, just for fun.

And they are really really good for smaller cosmetic things like you're about to do.

 

Strip it back until you've found the extent of the rust, strippy- pad it as best you can, paint with

a stout rust- neutralizing paint, then overcoat with whatever you please.  And re- tar.

 

But find the source of the water, first.  It could be something as easy as plugged elephant trunks...

 

t

 

[ray_]

In case toby wasn't clear, since you're a  newb:

 

[Simeon]

26 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

Simeon's strippy pads are NOT meant to go into an angle or die grinder- rather, you want a drill

or something else that does 4000 rpm, NOT 10,000!  They explode at about 5500- yes, I tried, just for fun.

And they are really really good for smaller cosmetic things like you're about to do.

 

 

Nope. The ones I used are specifically designed for mounting and use in an angle grinder. Definitely not talking about the ones with the plastic thread on the back that screw into a collet / backing pad. Definitely don't use those in an angle grinder. 

[Glengoolie Blue]

Thanks for the replies!

 

I have finished the majority of the scraping in the front left and right floor pans. Unfortunately, I've discovered a pretty nasty cut of rust in the middle of the drivers side. Seems to be right under the fuel line... The source of the leak appears to be from atop the trans tunnel where the right plug is missing.

 

Good save Toby! I definitely was about to start angle grinding tomorrow! I will be drill stripping instead now!

 

What do we think about this left floor pan and pedal box? seems that we've got a major defect here??

 

Best,

 

Stew

[72_02]

In the same boat as you man!

 

Took to a BMW specialist and told me it's pretty dry, but whenever I do a bit of work I find a new spot of rust...

 

Definitely watch out on the Walloth website for specials! I got a new floorpan and both of the rear wheel arch covers, a door skin, and front fender for 200 bucks. Shipping isn't bad.

 

How are you rockers?

 

Hopefully you can do the work in winter, too. Drive in summer. 

 

 

Edited September 9, 2016 by 72_02

[Glengoolie Blue]

3 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

Nope. The ones I used are specifically designed for mounting and use in an angle grinder. Definitely not talking about the ones with the plastic thread on the back that screw into a collet / backing pad. Definitely don't use those in an angle grinder. 

 

Okay so never mind, I was thinking it might take a while if i had to do it with a drill! Angle  grinder it is then! Can't wait for tomorrow!

[Son of Marty]

The package the wheel came in will spec the max rpm don't exceed it or you will bleed, if its rated at 4000 rpm use a drill and it will strip like a banshee if it's rated to 10,000 rpm then use your angle grinder.