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72_02

Solex
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Everything posted by 72_02

  1. Hi; I've sold the parts but still have the hazard switch. Thanks for the interest!
  2. Sadly sold my '02 a while back and dont plan on buying a new one unless I move to CA... can't hack the weather over here without a garage. I have a few new parts for sale that I dont really want to sell but have sat a couple of years now. I am planning to sell the lot - I don't really have time to send individually I'm sorry. ONLY exception is the hazard switch! Hazard Switch: 8 pin with resistor (new) $65 Bulk parts (will try explain and followed with part number from Autohaus may be BMW OEM number) Master cyl. grommet 0004310935 Exhaust Hangers rubber + plastic parts 31 12 1 095 420 Exhaust Manifold gaskets individual will do a whole manifold 11 62 1 723 878 2x strut bottom safety bolts no safety wire included Moulding Clips 51-13-1-829-904/58 Sway bar parts 31 35 1 114 570 Various new strut/sway bar bolts with washers. 07 12 9 922 436 (x2), 900 084 00402 (x6), 07 11 9 900 052 (x2) Sump plug magnetic I think: 11 13 1 250 089 Drive Shaft Bearing 26 11 1 206 502A 8 bolt gearbox output doughnut new Wheel bearing seals (2) 31 21 1 101 114 Bosch Super Plus Spark Plugs (x4) 7900, 0 242 235 663-08Y Offers for the lot. I'd be happy with 150 + shipping if that works. Probably useful for a full resto job maybe this will save you some cash? Cheers. If I get desperate I'll sell one by one but not right now. Thanks.
  3. Sadly sold my 2002 due to the climate / no garage etc. Seemed like it was rusting more than anything! I've got this left - it's in really good condition and has vacuum. Purchased off a member here but didn't install. I was told it worked though. Very clean. Also have the new bolts and washers etc included! LMK if you want it!
  4. Whoa! Amazing job you've done. Nice work!
  5. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe they made a 4 door, at all. Unless it's a different model you're after.
  6. 72_02

    72_02

  7. 72_02

    68-73 nose

    Well, I decided since I may be moving for a few months to get rid of my car, ideally just save all my dollars and then buy one from CA..who knows. A little sad but it went to a good home. In that case, I've decided to let go of the nose panel I drove 4 hours to pickup! $500 - it has minimal rust and no dents or bends, or filler! I believe it's worth the money, and sorry I cannot ship. I am in Brooklyn, but could drive to meet you on Long Island if you're really interested. It's quite an awkward part to transport. 2002AD wanted 900 for a used one. PM me if you'd like pics. It was for sale on here a while back. I was certain I'd use it!
  8. Would it drive to New York no worries? Also, how bad is that frame rail? Just one side? Go through into the floor pan? Such a rare nice looking car.. I am so tempted.
  9. Any idea what sort of cost it may be for the above car? It's still for sale. I may be moving to Vancouver, then back to the US soon.. was thinking about a side trip to Edmonton to snag this bargain. It's a good body on that one.. Would love to hear any info. I noticed that he's selling without bumpers, wondering if it'd cause hassle coming over the border for safety reasons.
  10. http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5938636262.html Open to offers now. It's a little more bodywork than I first imagined. The regulars - rockers and front drivers floor need done, trunk floor in parts, and the inner rear wells. It's a 72 on the title but the VIN I am told by BMW is for a late '71. In case of confusion. I actually have nearly all the metal to replace / repair this stuff, but I'm a horrible welder without a garage. So it's summer driveway repairs for me and it really bugs me I cant fix it easier. Would love to strip down but worried the snow will set in and cause more trouble. This is all the work I've done so far: brake stuff: replaced hard brake lines to calipers from front wheel arches new flexible hoses all round new pads + discs on the front + bleed new wheel bearings suspension stuff: new center track steering rod new ball joints and tie rod ends new genuine control arms new front bushes (tension rod to subframe) engine stuff: new pertronix ignition (also have spare distributor and pertronix) replaced most wiring regarding ignition system - soldered and heat shrink on joints studs and copper nuts on exhaust manifold + new gasket new distributor housing gasket + o ring new radiator - coolant was extremely clean which is a nice sign I then spent 1200 getting the carb rebuilt, tuned, timed. Bloody expensive process, Little Garage in Huntington did a fair job though. Runs a million times better than when I bought the car. The bad: Rust on drivers floor pan - I have a replacement from W+N Rust on both rear wheel towers (I mean when you open the trunk) again, replacement panels from W+N in the box ready to go Driver's rocker will need replaced Passenger door skin needs replaced - have a W+N replacement New Driver's fender in the box from W+N. Clutch doesn't need replaced but the throwout bearing does. I was waiting for summer before I do this job. I paid 3500, sunk about 2500 into it and also have a 1971 nose panel (sorry I will absolutely not sell until the car is gone incase I keep going with the project) and I also have a spare 4 speed gearbox. It'd be a good project if you have a garage! It has a clean title, runs very well, and everything is original and nothing is missing. (Center console comes with car). If I don't sell it I'll just keep going. Maybe my welding will get better and I find a garage. Car in Long Island near Northport. $5000 with all spare parts and new parts I have. Most replacement parts are from FCP euro or are OEM. Body parts from W+N but not OEM. Considering offers! http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/5938636262.html
  11. I have a question re: lines. My car has a single line the entire way from tank to carb - it's the plastic lined 8x13 BMW type. I'm guessing this is 13 outer 8 inner on the sizing? There is no return line. Would no return give me any issues on starvation? I'm thinking of replacing as I have not done since owning the car. Also a new pump.
  12. Snowy (sorry to hijack thread) did you have a single plastic inner/rubber outer hose from tank to inline filter in the engine bay on your car? Do you mind sharing the genuine part number if so? My car has a single line the entire way through which I will replace to try eliminate any air leaks.. BMW site says 32 dollars - this the correct line? Mine says BMW 8x13 on it.
  13. This is a theory but the garage says it's running well, which is right, but as soon as I hit an incline I have the issue. It wouldn't be something as simple as the angle of the fuel tank would it? For example mine is pretty solid on flats and great downhills, even at high rpm, but with a hill it nearly always dies unless I really nurse it. Itll pull strong up to 80mph in 3rd and 4th but the hills, doesn't matter what gear; it'll have trouble.
  14. Guys is there an easy way to remove the wiper pull switch from the dash? i have a '71. cant seem to remove my speedo cable, but when I pulled the instrument cluster out half way, pushed back in, my stalk switch works again! i guess is was a problem with the contacts. Now I'm worried all the gauges are probably only half way plugged in.
  15. My issue has basically gone but I will admit I paid a garage.. I was sick of it. Let's see how long it lasts! New plugs and coil. Tuned carb. Smooth now, very responsive, buuuut it does still feel like the odd misfire or something, cruising isn't ultra smooth. Maybe it's just old. Not sure.
  16. Interested in hearing about your Bronx storage if you're still checking on here! My car lives in LI but I live in Brooklyn.. I don't have a roof for it though. I looked up storage units up there in the Bronx around 100/ month.. true fact? Would be interested in a drive maybe next year when the car is up to scratch!
  17. Epic. There is hope! I currently have 2 coats and never removed seals. Haven't started to strip yet. Next summer.. doing the same as you I think! Or the roller method.
  18. Are you replacing that bearing while you're at it? My spare tranny has play and I'd like to do that before I install in.. curious.
  19. I've always wondered about this. It seems it's still very expensive. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a4354/4320759/ Give Jay a call!
  20. In an attempt to revive this topic and ask - does anyone know of schools on Long Island doing bodywork / rust work? I know it's cheeky but winter is coming, and I know they need project cars... sometimes. Mine isn't all that bad. Any leads?
  21. Following this one. My car did the same thing, after waiting 3 hours for insurance tow truck I got my own and took to Little Garage on LI. I seemed hot around the coil. I have pertronix, new rotor, wires, cap, and pretty good wiring. Interested to see if it's a fuel problem for you! Hope you can fix soon. If the garage gives me an update on my issue soon will post so you can check if its the same. etc.
  22. Harry this made all the difference. Forgot to mention. Bought it a while back, can finally open secondary carb properly and the action is much smoother. Well worth it.
  23. Are the spark plug wires in the correct order? My engine sounded like this after I adjusted my tappets/valves, and it was because I mixed up the plug wires. It also gave a cough of smoke out the carb. Hopefully it's something simple! 1-3-4-2, clockwise i think just googled quickly.
  24. Mate this is epic. Kiwi in the states here and it's awesome to see such a cool project back in the homeland! Gives me some motivation. Been watching your youtube channel - very helpful stuff. I can't weld and have a very swiss cheese style 2002 on my hands. Awesome to follow this one!


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