engine and drivetrain No money to tune, Going it my own. Weber DCOE40-32's Schrick 292

[2002Scoob]

Does anyone have a photo of a head with the retainers and rocker locks properly installed?? It would be amazingly helpful to compare notes and confirm what was done right or wrong.

 

And, I know I say 'thanks' allot, but... Thanks. I appreciate the helpfulness, knowledge, and feedback this forum provides. 

[2002Scoob]

Never mind, I see exactly what you mean... The retainers have a relief cut into them that covers the retention clips, and on that rocker arm it is installed backwards. Got it. Man..... Frustrating. I was hoping it wouldn't mean removing the head.

Correct- you can see the relief.

Incorrect.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TobyB]

He's fired.

 

And given what he's charged, I'd do a partial chargeback on my card just to get even.  But I'm a bastard.

 

And I tend to trust people less the more they say they know what they're doing-

most of the good ones don't bring that up at all, except maybe anecdotally when

you're asking about details- "yeah, I've had a few do that, but I figured out that if I blah blah blah, it prevents that"

 

t

 

Edited July 29, 2016 by TobyB

[donkbike]

For all that money I would have expected to at least have the hardware clean, the head bolt washers look like they were just wiped off.

[2002Scoob]

3 minutes ago, donkbike said:

For all that money I would have expected to at least have the hardware clean, the head bolt washers look like they were just wiped off.

 

Hah, I did the assembly, so that's my fault. In my defense, I did clean the hell outa' the shafts and threads with brake cleaner before lightly coating them in oil for assembly

[2002Scoob]

46 minutes ago, TobyB said:

He's fired.

 

And given what he's charged, I'd do a partial chargeback on my card just to get even.  But I'm a bastard.

 

And I tend to trust people less the more they say they know what they're doing-

most of the good ones don't bring that up at all, except maybe anecdotally when

you're asking about details- "yeah, I've had a few do that, but I figured out that if I blah blah blah, it prevents that"

 

t

 

 

No, I very much believe he owes me a partial refund. 

 

IF he does touch the car again, I feel it is fair to not only fix the problem and re-assemble the vehicle back to its current state. But also refund me to a cost that is closer to the original budget.

 

There's no reason now to have paid a premium for work that has to be fixed 3 times over. 

[donkbike]

btw love Freiburg, my father was from there, still have family there and in Eichstetten

['76mintgrün'02]

 

I would not let him work on it again

 

[ray_]

25 minutes ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

 

I would not let him work on it again

 

 

 

Yeah. 2 strikes, he's out. And a refund of anything that needs to be replaced to renew the head to the state it was supposed to be in now, after it is redone (AGAIN!). And at least half his labor fee refunded. Or maybe all. He delivered no satisfaction; I think an argument could be made for a full refund.

You might threaten legal action if he balks, or a letter from a lawyer anyway...

 

Good luck,

[2002Scoob]

Hi all,

 

So, I'm just going through checking out this guy's work further, and had a few questions- check out the following Vid-

 

 

 

I did a bit of Googling, but couldn't find a solid number listed as to what should acceptable side-to-side play/ clearance between the rocker arms and Ireland Engineering rocker locks. I found one post describing I.E. recommending 2 thousands needed, which seems pretty minimal. Does anyone know this?

 

It appears the rockers all have varied level of gap clearance, I'm going to go back out and roll the car in-gear and check out each rocker individually. 

 

Trying to identify all short-cuts or sloppiness present, there's several "Seriously?" things that I've noticed and came across when assembling the motor-

 

One being that I supplied him with a complete set of brand new Exhaust studs with copper nuts, and a brand new set of intake studs with the thin 11mm brass nuts for him to install on the head. 

 

I guess he assumed only 2 exhaust studs were worth his time to replace, and used the intake studs to do so instead of the supplied exhaust studs. I had to do the removal and replacement of all the studs myself after taking receipt of the heads.

This is after I replaced all the studs and moved the two intake studs to where they belonged.

 

 

This is one of many things that I'd expect should have been done as a part to rationalizing his expensive workmanship that ended up just being sloppy. Hardware that I would have expected could or should be replaced, like eccentrics with flat-spots, might need to be replaced, buy weren't... stuff like that.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 31, 2016 by 2002Scoob

[2002Scoob]

Ooo! How about this one.

That's a .026 (.66mm) feeler gauge on the #4 cylinder exhaust valve. Christ almighty

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ray_]

What on earth is going on with that eccentric??

[TobyB]

And since we're looking at things like that, #1 intake's face isn't too pretty, either.

 

But I wouldn't expect the valves to be lashed- typically, you leave them loose for assembly,

then lash after torquing up the head.

 

Did you pay him to cc the head?

 

t

 

[2002Scoob]

5 hours ago, TobyB said:

And since we're looking at things like that, #1 intake's face isn't too pretty, either.

 

But I wouldn't expect the valves to be lashed- typically, you leave them loose for assembly,

then lash after torquing up the head.

 

Did you pay him to cc the head?

 

t

 

 

CC meaning Compression Check? No, that wasn't done. 

 

I guess it would make sense to leave the valve adjustment for after being torqued down.

But in his invoice it lists " Einstellen Ventilspiel 0.2mm kalt"

 

Which translates to "adjust valve play .2mm cold", So, I would expect him to replicate his efforts again properly after he rebuilt the second time. And, if he lists it in his invoice that it has been done, but doesn't do it properly, and I fire up the motor with a bunch of loose valves...

Valve.tiffValve.tiff

 

I've just decided to stop looking at the damn thing because it just bums me out more the more I look the more the sloppy work is evident. I'm going to have another shop look it over and give a repair estimate, make a time-line from the beginning of the project, document all written requests, and contact a lawyer.

Edited August 1, 2016 by 2002Scoob

[zinz]

cc'ing the combustion chambers is to measure the volume of each to insure uniformity from one cylinder to another. Several ways to do it, but typically with a piece of plexiglass and a graduated cylinder or syringe. 

 

 

From The Google...

 

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0611-cylinder-head-volumes/

 

Ed