tires and wheels New member Post? My 2002 and what I need to do... 1st time build

[jmr_1602]

Love the ATS Classics. Wish I still had mine.

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[Stevenc22]

I don't know what you budget is but almost all parts are available and you can order new brakes, steering and suspension and get dirty!

[ATX-RX]

Quick update and shout out to big_lebowski, Ed Zinsmeyer, and Steven at blunt Tech! Steve walked me through exactly what I needed and got all my parts ordered today!!!

[BlueBarchetta]

ATX, welcome to the fun/insanity. Good hookup w/ Steve Blunt. He, other reputable parts sellers, and the '02 community were a big reason for getting my '02 5 years ago...

 

I would prioritize the following...

 - Confirm rust isn't going to turn your ride into a money pit

 - Brakes

 - Brakes

 - Brakes

 - Engine: leaks, etc.

 - Drivetrain

 - Suspension

 - Cosmetics/interior

[zinz]

Steven at blunt Tech! Steve walked me through exactly what I needed and got all my parts ordered today!!!

 

 

What kind of ice cream is he sending? 

 

Ed

[ATX-RX]

 

 

What kind of ice cream is he sending? 

 

Ed

 

I forgot to ask!!!

ATX, welcome to the fun/insanity. Good hookup w/ Steve Blunt. He, other reputable parts sellers, and the '02 community were a big reason for getting my '02 5 years ago...

 

I would prioritize the following...

 - Confirm rust isn't going to turn your ride into a money pit

 - Brakes

 - Brakes

 - Brakes

 - Engine: leaks, etc.

 - Drivetrain

 - Suspension

 - Cosmetics/interior

 

The consensus here (and the shop) suggested that trans, suspension, and brakes are all equally important and should be my priorities. The rust and leak can be taken care of (and will be) at a later date.

[Greg R aka Big_Lebowski]

Quick update and shout out to big_lebowski, Ed Zinsmeyer, and Steven at blunt Tech! Steve walked me through exactly what I needed and got all my parts ordered today!!!

Work it ATX-RX!  Can't wait to see your 02 and am glad to see we've added another 02 to the ATX!!

[ATX-RX]

SO... I got her back yesterday,

 

I replaced the:

shifter bushings

tranny output shaft seal

guibo

Driveshaft center bearing

 

and it was GLORIOUS!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HOWEVER...

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm moving along, going to Oriely's to pick up a few things and the car just DIES. No lights, no indicators, no power-PERIOD. I push her into a parking lot and find a number of things wrong with her:

 

Power at Battery

 

 

Power to Alternator- just twisted together!!!

 

Blinker fuse blown, and WAY too many red fuses!!

 

Vacuum to Dizzy

 

 

 

Never the less I MacGroobered the poor gal together and limped her home. One the trip home I experienced a ton of backfiring on deceleration, and she won't Idle. Once I parked her, I went on to fixing the electrical issues, installing the proper fuses and plugging in that vacuum line. When I go to start her, she starts, idles for 6 seconds beautifully, then falls flat on her face and dies. I just purchased a new dizzy cap, wire set, and plugs, but I really don't know where to go on this.

 

 

Any help is appreciated Gents!

 

 

to End on a teasing good note:

 

Edited October 2, 2015 by ATX-RX

[Buckeye]

Battery positive cable fix can be inexpensive if don't want to replace it altogether.

 

91940164  FUSION Battery Terminals, Straight

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804069

 

for entertainment only

 

[ATX-RX]

Fixed all the wires the moment I got home- trying to figure out why it won't stay idling

[dbmw2002]

Not put a spoiler on your spoiler parade but an exhaust leak can make for a really bad hangover or worse fix it before you drive it. P ER I OD

Not put a spoiler on your spoiler parade but an exhaust leak can make for a really bad hangover or worse fix it before you drive it. P ER I OD

['76mintgrün'02]

Some distributors came with a vacuum retard pod, as opposed to vacuum advance.  (some had both, I think)

Typing in your distributor number into the search window should tell you which type you have. (google in drop down menu)

 

Another test is to take the cap off and suck on the vacuum line and watch which way the points plate rotates.

Clockwise = retard and counter clockwise = advance.  

It will also tell you whether the diaphragm is still intact.

A failed diaphragm is essentially a vacuum leak, when attached to the carburetor.

 

I believe you are better off disconnecting and plugging the line, if it is a retard model.

 

Does your Weber have an idle cut off solenoid?

If they fail, the car will not idle.

You can turn the ignition on and pull the wire off the solenoid, to see if you hear it click when you put the wire back on.

No click = not working.

This is probably not your issue, but I did have trouble with mine sticking and the car would not idle; so I thought I would put it out there.

[Stevenc22]

Lets talk distributor and vacuum.

 

You have a vacuum advance and retard distributor. There are 2 vacuum nipples on the distributor. You should connect vacuum only to the advance nipple and you sould block the retard nipple.

 

Secondly you cannot attach any vacuum source. You need the progressive vacuum source from above the carb throttle butterflies.

 

See pictures.

 

 

[ATX-RX]

Not put a spoiler on your spoiler parade but an exhaust leak can make for a really bad hangover or worse fix it before you drive it. P ER I OD

Not put a spoiler on your spoiler parade but an exhaust leak can make for a really bad hangover or worse fix it before you drive it. P ER I OD

Fixed the exhaust leak after doing everything under the car- but yeah I have had a car that would make me feel a little light headed before thanks to an exhuast leak!

 

Some distributors came with a vacuum retard pod, as opposed to vacuum advance.  (some had both, I think)

Typing in your distributor number into the search window should tell you which type you have. (google in drop down menu)

 

Another test is to take the cap off and suck on the vacuum line and watch which way the points plate rotates.

Clockwise = retard and counter clockwise = advance.  

It will also tell you whether the diaphragm is still intact.

A failed diaphragm is essentially a vacuum leak, when attached to the carburetor.

 

I believe you are better off disconnecting and plugging the line, if it is a retard model.

 

Does your Weber have an idle cut off solenoid?

If they fail, the car will not idle.

You can turn the ignition on and pull the wire off the solenoid, to see if you hear it click when you put the wire back on.

No click = not working.

This is probably not your issue, but I did have trouble with mine sticking and the car would not idle; so I thought I would put it out there.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll take a peak at it. there are 2 unused ports on the Weber so I need to see why and go from there.

 

Lets talk distributor and vacuum.

 

You have a vacuum advance and retard distributor. There are 2 vacuum nipples on the distributor. You should connect vacuum only to the advance nipple and you sould block the retard nipple.

 

Secondly you cannot attach any vacuum source. You need the progressive vacuum source from above the carb throttle butterflies.

 

See pictures.

Thanks for the pics and the easy-to -follow explanation! will look at these things tonight!

[Nuthatch]

This is probably not your issue, but I've seen it a couple of times: Weber choke butterflies stuck in the closed position. The car will start, but will not run for long, with backfiring a side effect. The problem in these cases did not involve the choke linkage, but occurred instead because the choke plates had bonded temporarily to the walls of the carb. If such a thing occurs, the fix is easy: tap one or both plates gently to free the mechanism, then apply a very light coating of grease to the rims of the plates, which will prevent this sort of trouble in the future.