engine and drivetrain DCOE Install (Fuel Supply, Linkage and Jetting Questions)

[zinz]

That Pierce linkage looks to be a high quality piece of kit.  Machined links with multiple attachment points, brass Heym joints, stainless rods.  Nice and solid.

 

Sooo... do you need me to drive to Houston so we can mount these bad boys? Spring drives are right around the corner!  Let's roll!

 

Ed

[Kidasters]

Ed.

 

Yes.

 

Let me finish what I'm doing first.  Whole garage is getting renovated.  Electricians are here today putting in plugs, more lights,  and getting it wired for lifts.

 

I spent all morning putting in tubing for compressed air all over the place.  I have 4 taps throughout the garage.  That's really neat.

 

Tile should show up this afternoon, and I'll start laying it tonight/tomorrow.

 

Lifts show up maybe next week/weekend.

 

Then I gotta get all the cars out of storage where they are living now........ the Mini and BMW in North Houston, the Porsche out in Katy and the Ferrari is in mid-town.

 

May.  Show up in May.  We may have time in May........

[zinz]

Sounds like the "Garage Mahal"... Nice!  Lucky you!

 

Don't forget to add beer taps...

 

Ed

[Beach_Bum]

So I'm back from vacation and hoping to get started on the car again this weekend. I never heard back from TEP, but I've decided to go with a bar-style setup a-la Ireland/Pierce. Just have a couple more pieces to order from the local Grainger supply.

 

On a separate note...there was a sensor installed in my OE manifold (number 6 in the diagram below). RealOEM lists it as a temperature switch. The problem for me is that my new manifold doesn't have a place to screw it in, and my 318 divider's holes are too small. I do have the water temp. switch plugged into the 318 divider. But where do I plug this other one? Do I still need it?

 

[Henning]

That's an air temp switch, Bum. Needed for the two barrel DIDTA carb's heating, I think. In europe, only the late 73+ atomics have those.

Nr. 27, between the starter and the alternator:

 

 

Флорида в России??

 

Hen

Edited February 25, 2015 by Henning

[Beach_Bum]

Ok, so no need for it with the sidedrafts. Thanks Hen

[flybmw02]

Nice pull down linkage simple and very few moving parts

Edited March 3, 2015 by flybmw02

[eurotrash]

There are a couple of us who have had fine success with the universal top mount kit.  We did however change out the included linkage arm heim joints for all metal pieces, and then changed again to quick release, for tuning..  I'm just not in to dropping hundreds of dollars on carb linkage. 

 

[73tiiguy]

Beach_Bum:

 

The redline linkage kit is pretty crappy because of the "dual push" design.  How is one going to easily synch the throttles opening? way too much fiddling involved. The Canon manifolds are worse (another story).

 

I ended up using the the redline heim joints, rod, and only one throttle lever arm to end up with a "single push" setup.  You already have the carb intercoupling set, so all you need are the heim joints, rod, and 2 rod lever arms.

 

The one thing I noticed with the spring tensioned synch adjusting screw is that it will back itself out.  I tried some red threadlocker, but the m10 vibrates so much it didnt work.  I eventually removed the spring and used a small nut to lock things down.

 

I'm sure you will get the cable linkage dialed in to your liking - but if not here are the parts I used.

 

Ball socket pushrod

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/75500.100.htm

 

Carb intercoupling kit

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3718.htm

 

Rod arm

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.251.htm

[Beach_Bum]

There are a couple of us who have had fine success with the universal top mount kit.  We did however change out the included linkage arm heim joints for all metal pieces, and then changed again to quick release, for tuning..  I'm just not in to dropping hundreds of dollars on carb linkage. 

 

Thanks man. Yeah, I've been purchasing all metal heim joints from the local Grainger store and have just about everything I need.

 

Where are you doing the quick release at?

 

And how did you attach the linkage to the throttle lever? That's the last thing I need to figure out. I've seen it done with a cable, I've seen it done with a modified stock bar, and I've seen it done with aftermarket bars. I already have the brake booster cable mounting bracket from the TEP kit, so I may try the cable style first.

 

Beach_Bum:

 

The redline linkage kit is pretty crappy because of the "dual push" design.  How is one going to easily synch the throttles opening? way too much fiddling involved. The Canon manifolds are worse (another story).

 

I ended up using the the redline heim joints, rod, and only one throttle lever arm to end up with a "single push" setup.  You already have the carb intercoupling set, so all you need are the heim joints, rod, and 2 rod lever arms.

 

The one thing I noticed with the spring tensioned synch adjusting screw is that it will back itself out.  I tried some red threadlocker, but the m10 vibrates so much it didnt work.  I eventually removed the spring and used a small nut to lock things down.

 

I'm sure you will get the cable linkage dialed in to your liking - but if not here are the parts I used.

 

Ball socket pushrod

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/75500.100.htm

 

Carb intercoupling kit

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3718.htm

 

Rod arm

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.251.htm

 

Thanks for the info. Since I already had the extended throttle arm from the TEP kit, I was going to try your method first and see how I liked it. I'll also use your advice and install a nut instead of the spring on the adjusting screw.

 

I received the same rod arms from Pierce last week. Instead of using the ball sockets, I'm going to use small heim joints to attach the throttle arm, similar to eurotrash's pic above.

[eurotrash]

I drilled out the last hole on the throttle arm so it will accept the stock linkage rod connection.  It works fine.  Tuning the linkage for WOT is the trick, and my only negative critique on the arm design is that the throttle arm could be longer to help get WOT easier.  There may be an individual arm available that is longer, I just haven't remembered to look for it on Pierce's site..

 

The quick release is on one end of the linkage rods to the butterfly shafts.  After sync-ing the carbs with the rod disconnected, I then adjust them for length and reconnect.

Edited February 27, 2015 by eurotrash

[Emyers]

My answer to the linkage issue.  Extended the arm off the main actuator rod.  Works a treat.

Earl

[zinz]

Simple and easy solution, Earl.

 

Doesn't the cable to your starter chokes interfere with the center actuating rod (in bottom right picture) ?

 

and which manifolds are those?

 

Ed Z

[73tiiguy]

Thanks man. Yeah, I've been purchasing all metal heim joints from the local Grainger store and have just about everything I need.

 

Where are you doing the quick release at?

 

And how did you attach the linkage to the throttle lever? That's the last thing I need to figure out. I've seen it done with a cable, I've seen it done with a modified stock bar, and I've seen it done with aftermarket bars. I already have the brake booster cable mounting bracket from the TEP kit, so I may try the cable style first.

 

 

Thanks for the info. Since I already had the extended throttle arm from the TEP kit, I was going to try your method first and see how I liked it. I'll also use your advice and install a nut instead of the spring on the adjusting screw.

 

I received the same rod arms from Pierce last week. Instead of using the ball sockets, I'm going to use small heim joints to attach the throttle arm, similar to eurotrash's pic above.

 

 

Try the heim joint rod lever to throttle, I just found them a bit fiddly.  If you overtighten the locking nuts things can bind.  I found that if you leave them a bit loose allows for some play, which allows the carb throttles to rotate and return to their idle positions.

[73tiiguy]

The beauty of using a single "push/pull" with carb intercoupler is you don't have to do any measuring of rod arm links   You simply need to adjust the throw of the rod arm to allow full range of motion i.e. idle / WOT.  Then  turn the intercouple screw in our out to adjust carb throttle synch.

 

I think the reason the Redline Canon set up is a dual push is because their manifold is a two piece design.  This means that your carbs will not be exactly square with one another, thus the need for adjustable dual push arm rods.

 

But if it's working for you, happy motoring!!

I drilled out the last hole on the throttle arm so it will accept the stock linkage rod connection.  It works fine.  Tuning the linkage for WOT is the trick, and my only negative critique on the arm design is that the throttle arm could be longer to help get WOT easier.  There may be an individual arm available that is longer, I just haven't remembered to look for it on Pierce's site..

 

The quick release is on one end of the linkage rods to the butterfly shafts.  After sync-ing the carbs with the rod disconnected, I then adjust them for length and reconnect.