Jump to content

DCOE Install (Fuel Supply, Linkage and Jetting Questions)


Beach_Bum

Recommended Posts

I'm nearly finished with my sidedraft install but I'm confused about the fuel lines. I've been following the installation article and it looks like the fuel line from the firewall goes to the fuel pump, then fuel pump to filter to carb with "Tee fitting."

My question is what do I do with the other hose that comes from under the battery area (seen in the upper right of the 1st pic below)? It was connected on the left of the small valve shown in the 2nd pic below.

post-45423-0-58743800-1424013738_thumb.j

post-45423-0-14187000-1424013754_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I would cap it at the tank.  Because if for some reason the cap up front comes off, then a future owner of your car could start a siphon of fuel that uncontrollably dumps fuel all over the City Mill parking lot even after the car is turned off, while they run inside frantically searching for something that they could buy and use as a cap to cover the unexplained gushing of fuel from a mysterious hose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for capping at the tank.

I put mine back in service, to route fuel back to the tank.

When I was under the car putting the pedal box back in I picked at a rusty spot on the steel portion of the return line in question and fuel started leaking out.  If your line is also rusty, it could leak under there as well, if you simply plug it in the engine bay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would cap it at the tank.  Because if for some reason the cap up front comes off, then a future owner of your car could start a siphon of fuel that uncontrollably dumps fuel all over the City Mill parking lot even after the car is turned off, while they run inside frantically searching for something that they could buy and use as a cap to cover the unexplained gushing of fuel from a mysterious hose.

On a side note...while searching for posts on TEP linkage i came across one stating that you're running their kit. Do you happen to have any pics you could share? I'm struggling to get it to work properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On a side note...while searching for posts on TEP linkage i came across one stating that you're running their kit. Do you happen to have any pics you could share? I'm struggling to get it to work properly.

 

Oh, oops, no I don't, and I'm not using the TEP linkage anymore.  After several years I swapped it out for the Redline/IE top mount linkage.  

With the TEP, you just mount the bracket to the brake booster support, and the other to the bottom of a carb.  On the one end the cable goes to the throttle lever at the bottom of the car, and the other goes to the arm on the carb.  I can't remember much more than that.  It will work OKish, but my problem was that it felt like it took too much force, the cable didn't pull that smoothly, and then it just opened all at once.  If you could get the cable nice and straight it'd help, but I couldn't figure out how to get it perfect (not sure if there's a way).  The top mount kit that has spring assist works much more smoothly.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw this on eBay last night.  Seems to be a modification of the standard Ti linkage (which a I run with a very light return spring and I love it) If you haven't decided on a linkage yet, maybe this one interests you?

 

$(KGrHqF,!g0E1fPtSCr7BNbG)NM+zg~~_12.JPG

 

and the eBay listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281504900080?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, oops, no I don't, and I'm not using the TEP linkage anymore. After several years I swapped it out for the Redline/IE top mount linkage.

With the TEP, you just mount the bracket to the brake booster support, and the other to the bottom of a carb. On the one end the cable goes to the throttle lever at the bottom of the car, and the other goes to the arm on the carb. I can't remember much more than that. It will work OKish, but my problem was that it felt like it took too much force, the cable didn't pull that smoothly, and then it just opened all at once. If you could get the cable nice and straight it'd help, but I couldn't figure out how to get it perfect (not sure if there's a way). The top mount kit that has spring assist works much more smoothly.

Yeah that's how I have it mounted, it just doesn't work worth a crap. Just like you said, it takes a lot of force to move the pedal, it's not smooth, and there's no modulation at all.

I'm either going to look imto the pierce top mount kit or the ebay stuff below.

I saw this on eBay last night. Seems to be a modification of the standard Ti linkage (which a I run with a very light return spring and I love it) If you haven't decided on a linkage yet, maybe this one interests you?

$(KGrHqF,!g0E1fPtSCr7BNbG)NM+zg~~_12.JPG

and the eBay listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281504900080?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ed

Thanks Ed. Funny you posted that, as I came across that kit last night as well after searching linkages on here. I almost started a thread to see if anyone had tried it, but fell asleep instead :)

Do you happen to have any pictures of your linkage? Does it mount to the manifold? I'm trying to picture how it works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've installed one of those kits available on ebay. Here's some feedback to consider (based on a sample size of one kit in hand):

 

It's a good design. Yet, I believe there were some questionable choices in materials which had me re-fabricating the down-pull-rod (the diameter of the rod was smaller than stock, resulting in slop/play at the lever arm at the pedal box). Personally, I think the long 'cross' rod could be beefier as well.

 

As of now, I'm (re)building improved versions of that kit one at time as I do installations.... -KB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

KB,

 

From what I can see, I'm with you on the material they chose to make these kits.  Everything seems undersized...leaving too much flex in the linkage.

 

Here's what I have:

 

Repro Ti throttle linkage, including the "bridge" piece that attaches between the carbs and has the ball joint that the linkage rod attaches to.

post-42878-0-80418100-1424205289_thumb.j

 

Here is the linkage installed on the Solexes from driver's side

post-42878-0-12289300-1424211108_thumb.j

 

From the passenger side

post-42878-0-04321200-1424211159_thumb.j

 

I did not have the Ti firewall pivot-relocation bracket, so I used a SpryaFlo pivot bearing and some spacer material mounted to the center of the firewall:

post-42878-0-10478800-1424211306_thumb.j

 

Lastly, here's the robust bridge piece that mounts between the carbs from driver's side:

post-42878-0-20754500-1424211462_thumb.j

 

and from the passenger side (note red grease at throttle shafts...they are slightly worn and vacuum leak a tiny bit...the grease solved it)

post-42878-0-62160200-1424211590_thumb.j

 

This is the old-school Ti linkage and some folks have scoffed at it, but I can run a very light throttle return spring that allows for easy heel-toe action for downshifting.  Last year at MidAm, Jack Fahuna kinda frowned at it saying it was not as accurate as a cable linkage for racing (because with one pivot attached to the firewall and one attached to the engine, there is movement induced from the engine flexing in the mounts)  I don't really race, but have never experienced any such affect.  He used the example of being in a turn and needing to keep precise/constant throttle input.... I don't know...

 

The linkage has been very stout, was a snap to install and allowed me to use the OEM throttle rod (though it needed to be reformed to attach to the new firewall location and still clear the bellhousing.) 

 

I recommend it. I bought mine from Connor Elkington at Vintage Autobahn and would buy another one.

 

Ed Z

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've installed one of those kits available on ebay. Here's some feedback to consider (based on a sample size of one kit in hand):

KB, From what I can see, I'm with you on the material they chose to make these kits.  Everything seems undersized...leaving too much flex in the linkage. Ed Z

Thanks to you both for the input and the pictures! I'm running a one piece Korman manifold, and after looking at the pictures I'm not sure this linkage will work. I don't have the opening in the manifold between the carbs and am afraid the linkage will hit.

Unfortunately I found out from Andrew at IE today that the Weber top mount (the same one that Pierce sells) will not work with the Korman manifold either because of the same reason as above. He did shoot me an email with some good ideas though, so it looks like I may have to try and piece something together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, this thread is completely hijacked, but I'll continue... :)

 

I can see the problem you would have with the Korman manifold; being that it's one piece, while the OEM parts are two individual manifolds for each carb.  That center section would likely interfere with the part of the linkage that attaches to the carbs.

 

Korman:

post-42878-0-22023600-1424270504_thumb.j

 

Now...when I was working through this problem two years ago, I spoke with Steve over at Top End and he offered up some solutions to me.  See, I got my carbs used and when they were pulled (from who-knows-where?) they had been using a cable linkage and it had been cut. Moreover, the little attachment anchor at the carb had broken (see pics)

post-42878-0-79117500-1424271531_thumb.j

post-42878-0-36544200-1424271559_thumb.j

 

and here is the simplistic TEP schematic

post-42878-0-47698900-1424271639_thumb.j

 

Because I already had an anchor point attachment on my carbs, I didn't need that big bracket under the carbs that TEP uses (it wouldn't fit the Solexes, anyways).  I sent Steve the pics you see above and he told me he could easily adapt his cable to what I had.  Right about the time he and me were working it all out, I found the repro Ti linkage and went in that direction, instead. 

 

I would start a dialog with Steve at TEP to figure out what's not working on your set up; he was sure willing to help me and I ended up buying nothing from him...so that's my shout out to TEP.

 

...as for your original question... which fuel pump are you going to use? Electric? 90 degree mechanical pump?  ( I went with an original mechanical pump and it has been flawless)

 

Hope the above pics and info is helpful.

 

Ed Z

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would start a dialog with Steve at TEP to figure out what's not working on your set up; he was sure willing to help me and I ended up buying nothing from him...so that's my shout out to TEP.

 

...as for your original question... which fuel pump are you going to use? Electric? 90 degree mechanical pump?  ( I went with an original mechanical pump and it has been flawless)

 

Hope the above pics and info is helpful.

 

Ed Z

 

Thanks again Ed. Yes, I have been meaning to contact Steve at TEP about this, and will most likely do so tonight. I need to ask him if he changed the design of the linkage at the carb because what he sent me is different then every picture I've been able to find online. You can see what I have in the pic below.

 

The piece that holds the cable (pointing downward) is loosely attached to the throttle arm via a ball and cup system which allows it to bend backwards or forwards, and therefor not get a straight pull when the pedal is depressed.

 

I'm using a Bavaria fuel pump (actually a Pierburg for the Bavaria).

 

post-45423-0-77862400-1424276378_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


  • Upcoming Events

×
×
  • Create New...