body and interior Tii Clock Repair Revelations

[Swiss 2002Tii]

On ‎2‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 11:24 PM, Swiss 2002Tii said:

So... I applied power to the clock and thunk, tic, tic, tic...It works!  Don't know why it wasn't operational, must have been a bad connector contact, although I checked the cable and all wires.  Maybe ground connection was not good enough.

Upon further inspection, my clock's solder joint was corroded, but intact.  The clock wasn't working because of a poor connection through these crimp connectors... 

The dealer had spliced the clock wiring onto the tacho harness.  The reason I solder and heat shrink or solder and spade lug every connection!

 

 

My thanks to Trieu for the proper 3-pin connector to make a separate harness for the clock!

 

[Einspritz]

so, where did you source the 3 pin connector?

Those don't look the same.

 

Thanks

[PaulTWinterton]

2 hours ago, ray_ said:

I'm not certain internal grounds are a big issue. I'd say the positive pixies going thru the contact points are a bigger issue, in my experience.  Maybe your experience differs.

 

I should have said: I used "The Clock Works" to service my tii clock.  THEY said that the clock-to-case grounding was an issue.  I experienced a well-running clock until it was back in its case.  It stopped running but the fuse didn't blow.  So I deduced that without a ground no power was circulating to run the clock or break the fuse.  

 

We have concluded that the fuse, points and movement friction are the reasons that the clocks quit.  What we have never discussed is the electrical side of the clock.  I have next to no knowledge of things electrical.  But MAYBE some clocks have electrical parts that might need to be replaced. If the sub-parts even exist any longer.  Actuator thingie?  Coil?  Resistors?

 

Thoughts and expertise please. 

 

 

 

[Tsingtao_1903]

48 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

I experienced a well-running clock until it was back in its case.  It stopped running but the fuse didn't blow.

In this case, if the two contact points were not touching each other to complete the circuit when the clock stopped running, then, the ground had nothing to do with it.  The reason for the clock stopping must be mechanical.  If the two contact points were touching, then, one of several things could be the reason:  The two contact points were so oxidized that they no longer conductive and not making a circuit, or, grounding, actuator thingie, coil, resistors....

 

I always run these clocks on a power supply for at least two weeks, sometimes three.  About 20% will stop in two-three days after oiling and servicing, another 15% or so will stop in the second week.  If the clock stops, then, start back at the beginning.

Edited March 22, 2018 by Tsingtao_1903

[zinz]

and a little something from this morning's AutoWeek...

 

http://autoweek.com/article/car-life/car-clock-week-1976-bmw-2002-vdo

 

 

[Einspritz]

I'll see your 2002 clock and raise you a '69 1600 taken from my car in '73.

 

Anyone know what it is worth?

[John_in_VA]

1 hour ago, Einspritz said:

I'll see your 2002 clock and raise you a '69 1600 taken from my car in '73.

Anyone know what it is worth?

 

EBay will determine its value!  Search for completed auctions.

[irdave]

Ray will give you a 20, shipped, for sure.

 

And now, with a little sewing machine oil because I couldn't find any clock oil locally,  I've got TICK TICK TICK CLICK TICK TICK TICK!

 

Thanks everyone.  I plan on leaving it on the work bench for a little bit to make sure it keeps running, but it's going now.

[ray_]

I've not seen anyone on the internet suggest sewing machine oil. Hope it works well for you.

 

Clock oil is available on Amazon for about  $20,000 / gallon. 

 

But you can by 3 drops for $10.

 

Cheers,

[irdave]

Sewing machine oiled clockola is clicking along for a smooth 24 hours now.  I set the time to see if it's keeping it well.  It was only like $9 for 50cc- cheap by comparison....