looking for the correct weber 32/36

[chrisp]

I'm having carb issues...

[chrisp]

Sorry for the cryptic posting, I kept getting an error message when I would try to post... I have a '74 2002 with the 2 barrel solex. It recently started running terribly. I took off the air cleaner and there is a little tube that ends just above the passenger side barrel... Even with the key off, there is a slow drip of fuel into that barrel. On top of that there is virtually no seal between the air cleaner and the carb. I'd like to just replace the carb and, it seems that, being that it's a 2 barrel solex, I'm better off installing a Weber 32/36. I understand that there is a difference between the DGV, DGAV, and DGEV monikers (One is manual choke, one is water, and one is electric I believe) but, assuming that I can get the choke situation worked out, will they bolt on? Do they share the same base that will match my intake? I'm looking at one of these: http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#!/~/product/category=361512&id=15456403

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

[roadhog0]

That's probably a knock off Weber. Get a used 32/36 with a water choke (if your Solex carb has one already) and jet if for your car then throw it on. You'll love it!

[mattcshark]

The Weber DGV 32/36 will bolt on, but...unless you hog out your manifold, you need to use a 1/4" spacer so the butterfly can open all the way. You will then require the short weber air filter to clear the hood. I'd use a manual choke unless you let your wife or girl friend drive it. Electric choke is the simplest, but in very cold weather it may shut off before you want it too.

You can install an on/off switch on the dash to slow it down if necessary.

[chrisp]

Thanks for your response!

I'm assuming if I currently have water choke, there will be a line from the radiator to the carb?

I'm actually looking at an older unit that was rebuilt by this company. The guy has receipts for the rebuild.

Otherwise, what vehicles should I look for in the junkyard? How do I identify it when I see it?

[chrisp]

Also, I've read a lot about electronic ignitions...

I am pretty sure that I have points. Can you all please confirm that or not?

[FunkyLaneO]

Also, I've read a lot about electronic ignitions...

I am pretty sure that I have points. Can you all please confirm that or not?

You just posted a picture of a set of points so I would say you do have points.

[c.d.iesel]

points yes - and they look about to stop pointing due to the heavy gray

deposit - also i would bet the point cam rubbing block is dry,

and no oil under the rotor - under the felt pad to lubricate

the mechanical advance.

sounds like your ready to read a Repair Manual,

seek out an Owner's handbook. Between those

two mandatory publications you'll learn a pant

load and be on your way to 02

Zen-ness with your new car.

WELCOME to the beginning

[Hans]

I would be buying my carb from a BMW -savvy supplier so you get the right jets, etc.

[chrisp]

Right on guys! I'll keep poking around

[Mike Self]

DGV=manual choke, DGAV=water (the A is for aqua), and DGEV = electric.

The water choke is easiest to install, as the water hoses are already there, leftover from the old Solex carb .

The manual choke is the most controlable (and also the least expensive). Plugging the old water choke hose connections is easy, and adding a manual choke cable isn't difficult, 'cause you can use a cable from an early 02 that had a manual choke. and AFAIK the firewall hole is on all 2002s, covered with a rubber plug on the later US spec cars.

Regardless, any of 'em are better than that old Solex. BTW, the thing that's dribbling is the accelerator pump nozzle. Probably the pump's check valve is stuck or damaged.

cheers

mike

[dbmw2002]

Heres the Webber inside line, go Redline, blunt has great deals and they are the real McCoy, your first link was for fake knockoffs and not worth the savings, 25% more will buy an original new properly set up fuel meterin systym.

Up at the ranch in Gazzele we like to say, buy it right or buy it twice

[dbmw2002]

points yes - and they look about to stop pointing due to the heavy gray

deposit - also i would bet the point cam rubbing block is dry,

and no oil under the rotor - under the felt pad to lubricate

the mechanical advance.

sounds like your ready to read a Repair Manual,

seek out an Owner's handbook. Between those

two mandatory publications you'll learn a pant

load and be on your way to 02

Zen-ness with your new car.

WELCOME to the beginning

BTW Dont forget to mention hes got the bass ackwards points that spin the wrong way, unless u r n New Zealand, a little harder to find and reg suppliers might be stumpified

[chrisp]

Thanks! ... I'll be sure to specify "bassackward" when they ask me which way my points spin =D

By "Blunt" I'm assuming you mean Blunttech.com?

[Napes]

Yes, "Blunt" is in fact http://blunttechclassic.com/?page_id=273

While replacing your carb I'd suggest pricing out new rotor, distributor cap, condenser, and points. The four items are probably less than $30 and will improve the running of your car a bunch. And, as Uncle c.d. said, get yourself, at the very least, a Haynes manual for 2002s to guide you thru the adjustments you need.

Bob Napier