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mattcshark

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Everything posted by mattcshark

  1. mattcshark
    Thanks for the replies. I'll try to get some pics together. I need to do some detailing first. Somebody left a note on the car the other day, asking if it was for sale. I contacted him, he wants a restoration project...that's good, but I told him I'd have to think about the price. I was hoping he would make an offer, but he put the ball in my court. Part of me just doesn't want to let it go, at least not for peanuts. Don't want to scare away someone who will take care of this car either.
  2. mattcshark
    I've had a 1975 2002 for over 15 years now. Although she's been a weekly driver, Restoration has been stalled and with family pressures I think I need to sell her to someone who will give this car the attention it deserves. Problem is, I don't have a clue what price to ask. Here's some details. The car is in fair shape. The Good: Runs great rebuilt head Petronix ignition 4 speed (converted from automatic Stahl header 2 barrel Weber upgraded starter and alternator new steering linkage original 13" bottle cap wheels Original Recaro seats The Bad: Burns a little oil minor oil leaks Faded Red paint some minor dents some lower panel rust out some floor panel rust on drivers side spare tire tub issues holes in all seats bad carpet bad heater core cracked dash bad highbeam switch cracks in signal lenses Missing trunk panels etc. I've seen estimates of $5000 to $7500 for a 2002 in fair condition. Can I really expect to get that? I'm in Western Washington. I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanks
  3. mattcshark
    That seems like what's going on, although I'd never heard of such a thing.. How could that happen. Oil contamination generally has the opposite affect. Clutch was a bit grabby when cold. Did have a nasty radiator failure that sprayed alot of antifreeze everywhere awhile back. Could antifreeze do it? Will try bumping it loose.
  4. mattcshark
    My 1975 2002 has a clutch issue with the stock 4 speed. After sitting for a few weeks The clutch does not function. All the hydraulics are working and are fairly new. The clutch lever on the tranny moves it's full travel, but no clutch at all, cannot ingage a gear while the engine is running. In the weeks proceding the failure, I would sometimes have a little difficulty getting the clutch to function early in the morning, I surmized this was probably due to air in the line, after a few pumps it would work just fine. When I parked the car last, everything was funtioning normally. It isn't the hydraulics or air in the line, because all the levers are moving to full travel. What's going on?
  5. mattcshark
    I've machined the stock intake to perfectly fit a 32/36 or a 38/38. There seems to be enough thread on the stud holes to mill off some material. Just wondering if the spacer/insulator is a must or not. Unlike the Canon, I left the ports seperated. Is there an advantage to the open flange of the Canon?
  6. mattcshark
    Been running a Weber 32/36 DGV for many years on my 75 2002. I've been very happy with it. I've always been not so thrilled with the fact that you need to run the short Weber filter with it or you have hood clearance issues. I just finished machining out a second intake manifold to properly fit the carb without a spacer. Now I've been told you need to run a spacer to prevent fuel boiling and vapor lock issues. If that's true, has anyone tried shaving the flange down on the intake manifold by say 3/8" to achieve more clearance?
  7. mattcshark
    The Weber DGV 32/36 will bolt on, but...unless you hog out your manifold, you need to use a 1/4" spacer so the butterfly can open all the way. You will then require the short weber air filter to clear the hood. I'd use a manual choke unless you let your wife or girl friend drive it. Electric choke is the simplest, but in very cold weather it may shut off before you want it too. You can install an on/off switch on the dash to slow it down if necessary.
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