MichaelP

Michael Cahsel in Germany usually seems to have lots of that stuff on hand. Expect it to really expensive. Worth it? Depends on how much you value it. Cahsel's website: http://www.cahsel.de/home_e.htm

Funny story: I was at the Lime Rock concours thing a couple of years ago and happened to be scoping out the E9 coupes while the judges were hemming and hawing over them. While looking at Doug Dolan's E9 with an S38 (M5 motor) conversion, I heard one of them remark, "this must have been the M version." I had to turn around and snort in the opposite direction. I mean, Doug's coupe is really convincing, but come on.. A few minutes later, while going over a Golf CSL, one of them asserted, "that steering wheel isn't original. It must be out of a Jag or something." This was a standard CSL issue, three-hole-per-spoke wheel that anyone who has even looked at old BMWs before would know. I had to pipe up in defense of the owner. Who knows what other idiocies these yahoos dreamt up.

It looks like weatherstripping used on E9 coupes along the lower edges of horizontal chrome along the windows (where it meets the body). It was also used along the sharp edge of CSL chrome fender arches. It's very inexpensive and sold in 12 or so foot rolls. I seem to recall it was about 10 bucks. P/N 54 12 9 734 126. Edit: Bill, email me your address and I'll send you a piece to check out -- or I can just bring some to Herndon if you're going.

(nt)

You might want to ask if anyone is heard of the "newbie" before. If you're refrerring to Mario Langston, he's very well known to the E9 crowd and has an excellent reputation. He may be new to this board (though he did post to the 'old' faq board occasionally), but there aren't many folks on this board who have been at this game longer than Mr. Langston. I'd deal with him without reservation.

They're from a 2000C or CS. Those wheels are currently graced with chrome trim rings, but I don't have a photo handy. You can also use 2000CS or Bavaria (E12 Edit: oops, I mean E3, but early e12s came with caps on 14" wheels, too) hubcaps. I bought the steelies from Al Taylor for 10 bucks each.

Here's a shot of the M2 with 14x5's and 195/60-14 Yoko AVS Intermediates. A little wider than they ought to be for the wheels but no rubbing. 195s are sort of a waste on a 5" wheel, as much of the corner of the tire gets rolled sort of vertically and the tire is cupped outward -- but to paraphrase our secretary of defense, sometimes you drive with the tires you have, not the tires you might want or wish to have.

From http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html : SELECTING WIRE SIZES FOR USE IN LAMP CIRCUITS Use only stranded wire, never solid (household type) wire, in automotive applications. Wire gauge selection is crucial to the success of a circuit upgrade. Wire that is too small will create the voltage drop we are trying to avoid. On the other hand, wire that is of too large a gauge can cause mechanical difficulties due to its stiffness, particularly in pop-up ("hidden") headlamp systems. The headlamp power circuit ought to use no less than 14-gauge (2.5 mm2) wire, with 12-gauge (4.0 mm2) being preferable. 10-gauge (5.2 mm2) can be used if bulbs of extremely high wattage are to be used, but it's usually overkill. Be sure to pick a kind that flexes easily if yours is a hidden-headlamp system. Do not fail to use the large wire size on both sides of the headlamp circuit! Voltage drop occurs due to inadequate grounding, too! you will only sabotage your efforts if you run nice, big wires to the feed side of each headlamp, and leave the weepy little factory ground wires in place. Most factory headlamp circuits run the too-thin ground wires to the car body. This is an acceptable ground--barely--on a new car. As a car ages, corrosion and dirt build up and dramatically increase resistance between the car body and the ground side of the vehicle's electrical system. It takes little extra effort to run the new, large ground wires directly to the battery Negative (-) terminal or to the metal housing of the alternator, and this assures proper ground.

See here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/13/32/

Most locksmiths won't be able to fab that kind of key from a lock. Most have trouble even duplicating a key. See photo below. E9 ignitions are really unruly beasts. If you're working in a cramped, dark environment, good luck. Here's an illustrated discussion of the ignition on the e9 board: http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=135&highlight=ignition If you want a whole new ignition + key (you probably do), phone Carl Nelson at LaJolla Independent (http://www.bimmerdoc.com). He's talked lots of coupe owners through this exact problem.

I'm serious. Our 1600 wears all noted items proudly.

and stock springs. And thirteen inch wheels. And MANUAL BUMP!!

It sure sounded like something binding, but everything looked happy when I pulled the CV boots. Thanks for the help anyway...

Had to pop up to Sears for a tool this morning. Geeeeeez, just about everything was on sale. I got overstimulated and had to leave.

Backstory: the loud clicking started when I was driving it around in the hurricane (what was left of it) on Friday, so the roads were swampy. It started clicking/clunking after about 5 miles. Turned it around in the driveway this morning -- clunk clunk clunk. Spent the last couple hours pushing, pulling dissasembling,reassembling -- nothing. Just took my my father-in-law/retired mechanic for a spin to see what he thought. Ran like a top. Natch.

There's some left to right slop when twisting the wheel (non-LSD), but that doesn't seem unusual.

Definately a bad noise. Not sure what's causing it. The clicking/clunking is speed dependent, about once per wheel revolution, and occurs only when car is in gear -- coasting in neutral, it's quiet. Put the rear end on jackstands and ran it it unloaded -- no clicking. Diff is full of clean fluid and the CV boots are in good shape. Universals seem ok, and I replaced the center bearing about 1000 miles ago. Unfortunately, I can't be under the car while I'm driving it. What to look for next?

USA 1600s were designated 1600-2 on the vin tag, with a 1600 badge on the tail through April of 1971 ending at vin 1572930. For the rest of 1971, US vins 1572931 to 1573162 were designated 1602, both on the vin tag and on the rear end. 1972 began 2002 import only.

what do you want to photoshop?

I was getting a little rubbing, but... First, the rear fenders and tail panel are replacements from someone's renovation, and it seems that the arches were biased outward slightly. Second, I was getting a little rubbing on one side so I ground about another 1/8" out of the top of arches. The car in that photo is parked on uneven ground, so the car sits lower than it appears here.

I hope to make it. Things are minute-to-minute these days, but if I'm free I'll see you there.

(nt)

Stock suspension, no rubbing as far as I can tell. The rear arches are ground down about 1/8".

The M3 headers and downpipes are pretty critical to the output of the S14 and fortunately only need a little massaging to clear the framerail. Keeping the x-pipe at the end of the downpipes is a really good idea according to the m3 crowd, but you'll have to remove some pipe ahead of it to leave enough room for the pipe turn to the trans tunnel. From the flange at the backside of the x-pipe you'll need to make a 2-into-1 that makes the turn to the tunnel, and from there, there are 2 basic ways to go. One is to locate the end of the 2-into-1 to accept the 2.25" dia 02 Turbo resonator + muffler, which is still available from BMW for ~$600. It's comparatively pricey, but it's the quietest option - which is still pretty loud. It's not the greatest for flow, though - a 2.5" custom amalgamation using Magnaflow cans will be much less expensive and provide flow more to the S14's liking -- though it will be noisier. Ireland Engineering sells Magnaflows with exhaust hanger tabs already welded on, and Jeff can help with which cans will be most effective. I went the Turbo muffler route several years back, and though it's been ok, I'd go withMagnaflows if I did it again.

You probably could run two DGAVs, since it's really just a matter of cfm (and a DGAV would provide enough air cfm with the secondaries open), but the 2.3L S14 has enough trouble putting torque on the ground at low revs with a whole throttle body per cylinder. It seems like things would be pretty dismal with only the DGAV primaries. It would thrifty around town, though... The motronic harness isn't relly that hard.