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  1. do you still rebuild the tii time switch    I have a few laying around     Justin      [email protected]

  2. Cars through model year 1976 are welcome. E21 started in MY 1977.
  3. I'll take the blame for the error. I proofread that, and I should have caught the goof. Sorry.
  4. There's another possibility that's not shown in the diagrams so far. The very bottom end of the shaft(s) that come out the bottom of the throttle body has a ball end that fits in a socket. There should be a cup inside that socket. If the cup is missing, that can create enough friction to cause sticking on throttle release. BTDT.
  5. When asking for electrical help, it's good form to tell us the model and year. Your comments about Fuses 5 and 6 suggest you have 12-fuse box through '73. Don't worry that fuses 5 and 6 don't have power. They are wired between the hazard switch and the bulbs, and they have power only during the 'on' part of the on-off flash of the turn signals or hazard lights. Fuse 8 supplies power for the hazard lights; Fuse 12 supplies power for the turn signals. Since your brake lights work, Fuse 12 is good, so that is not the problem with the turn signals. Fuse 1 is not pertinent to the turn signals or hazard lights. Since the four turn signal lights work for the hazard function, the bulbs and wiring to them are all good, and the hazard light fuse (8) is good. The lights you see when the ignition is off are the taillights and front marker lights, not the turn signals. There is a failure mode of the hazard switch where it sits in the wrong place in the off position and prevents the turn signals from working correctly. To check for this, turn the key to run, move the turn signal switch to left or right, then move the hazard button *very slowly* through its full range of travel looking for a spot where the turn signals work. If you find one, your hazard switch has this failure mode. You found the hazard flasher relay. It also serves as the turn signal flasher relay. I believe you will find the problem in the hazard switch, the turn signal switch, or the wiring.
  6. http://www.jameng.com/prices/index.phtml#PM%203713 http://www.jameng.com/products/images/Choke.jpg $49.50
  7. Good price on a handy tool here: http://www.buy.com/prod/non-contact-handheld-infrared-thermometer/q/loc/111/listingid/37031775/210663751.html?adid=17654 An infrared thermometer is a great tool for diagnosing cooling system problems. This is not the most accurate model in the world, but it's a good value at this price.
  8. ... but that's no guarantee the tabs around the battery base of the case will mate with the clamps in the battery tray.
  9. It's not baby-sitting. I pontificate; you do all the work. We all learn from your experience. We thank you.
  10. Strip one end of the jumper wire and stuff in into the back side of the round connector to make a temporary connection to Pin 7. Tie-wrap the jumper wire to the existing wire on Pin 7 if needed to keep the jumper in place. Plug the connector into the cluster. Place the cluster roughly into the installed position. Ground the other end of the jumper wire. (There is no risk of damage when grounding Pin 7.) Better? If the light comes on, the cluster is good, and the fault is in the wiring between the 12-pole connector and the oil pressure switch. If the light stays out, the problem is in the cluster. Disassemble the temp/fuel gauge assembly from the cluster and trace the PCB conductor from Pin 6 to the bulb socket position.
  11. The P.O. painted my trunk interior black. Bad idea. The darkness makes it hard to find things, even with medium-grey carpet. Also, every little scratch in the paint shows. +1 on the trunk side boards.
  12. ... it's simple. Unplug the Interlock Control Unit. Store it in a safe place. At the control unit socket, attach a wire between pin 31 (ground; brown wire) and pin 31b (starter relay ground; brown/black wire). Replace the Starter relay if absent. That should completely bypass the seat belt/starter interlock. The starter should run when you turn the key to start. Try that and post the results, which will depend on what was done with the neutral safety switch wires.
  13. ... although I agree that Jerzy's wiring diagram is interesting. I'm using the U.S. '75 wiring diagram that Bob Murphy dug up in Mobile Tradition or NA a few years back; I got my copy from The tii Register. Is the problem that the oil pressure light does not illuminate? Do the tach, temp gauge, and fuel gauge work? If so, try swapping the bulb twist-in bases between oil pressure and alternator locations. A quick end-to-end test which you probably tried already: Key in run (Fahrt) position. Unplug the wire from the oil pressure switch and touch it to the head or the body. The light should come on. If it does, the switch is bad. Low side test: Key in run position. Attach a jumper wire from a known good ground to pin 7 on the instrument cluster connector. The light should come on. If it doesn't, the problem is within the instrument cluster circuit board that holds the warning lights. Wiring Description: Switched power to the instrument cluster passes through pin 6 in the 12-pole round connector. It arrives at the cluster as a green/white wire which originates at Fuse 12; Fuse 12 also feeds: - 3-pole connector #65 - Service indicator lights #96 - Seat belt interlock module #107 - Speed sensitive relay #26 - Retard relay #28 - Choke relay #33 - Cold start enrichment #27 Fuse 12 is fed from terminal 15 on the ignition switch, which is hot in the run and start positions of the key. Within the instrument cluster, pin 6 feeds the following: - Oil pressure warning light - Fuel gauge - Coolant temperature gauge - Tachometer - Brake fluid warning light Bob: Try these tests and post the results. --Curt
  14. It sucks, but it's not the seller's fault, and it's extra time and trouble for him. It would be nice if he would exchange it, but he has no obligation to do so. Sorry.
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