MichaelP

Thanks for the replies. Slavs, I have a set of 1600ti, high compression pistons that are somewhat used, but useable. I'm not sure of their provenance, but the stamps read "MAHLE 34/39 0021." The PO of the car sourced them from Schimmer Tuning some years ago. I don't suppose using those pistons would help the deck height issue if using a 2 liter crank? Originally, I had no intention of using a 2 liter crank - it was the mechanic who suggested it. I'm just looking for logical reasons to go with one crank or the other, and the deck height might be the clincher. I'd be perfectly happy with the 1.6 arm. Thanks again.

Hi all. It's been a few years since I've posted, but it's good to be back! I've gotten serious about getting our 3/'71 1600's motor rebuilt and I need to get to back to Korman this week with final decisions, so I'm looking for some input before I jump. The rebuild recipe involves bumping the motor up to street 1600ti spec plus some (40mm DCOE, 292 cam, etc), but what has me confused is what to do about the crank. As a late 1600, it has the 8-bolt crank, and I'd like to maintain the 1600's uniquely cheery willingness to spin up to and live at high rpm. My guy at Korman is recommending a 2 liter crank, but searches through this forum suggest that the added weight of the 8 weight, 2 liter crank (vs 4 on the 1.6 crank), combined with the added stoke length would compromise it's rev-happy nature. The archives say that go-fast 2 liters sometimes substitute a 1.6 crank for this very reason. Am I reading this right? Suggestions?

Thanks. I did fabricate a brass hack for the time being, but it's not a nice snug fit like the proper pin. And I checked my pockets after you mentioned it No luck.

It's been ages since I've posted here, but it's been a difficult day. First the E30 decided it would greet me with a no-start, then the piano blew a wire and then the 1600's carb decided to drown itself in gasoline. OK, fine, I can manage all that, but then my own stupidity kicked in while dealing with the PSIT. Are the planets somewhere they shouldn't be? Executive summary: I lost the PSIT's brass float pin. Does anyone have a spare? I dropped the brass pin that fits into the brass sleeve on the Solex float and after an hour's worth of cigarettes later, I still can't find it. If you don't have a spare, any leads on where to source one? Happy Father's Day.

BMWNA gave dealers the green light a year or so ago to charge whatever they like for parts. It's become pretty silly here, too. Carl Nelson at La Jolla Independent has a never ending special on Mann 059s for $3.50 each. Order a bunch: http://www.bimmerdoc.com/parts.php?car=5

Oops, sorry about listing the trans rather than diff as 3.91 -- I was being robotic and typing what was in the book. I've dug out an old 1600 specific blue parts binder to try to clear up some things. Note that the date on the sheets I'm looking at are 1.11.1967, so we're talking the early 1600-2/ti here. Engine internals for the ti are, as said by others here, limited to the pistons and carbs. Things that you might imagine might be bumped up in spec, such as the crankshaft, exhaust valves, distributor or exhaust manifold are in fact, unchanged. Brakes: It seems that Europe 1600-2s (as of 1.11.67) had the single circuit system with no booster, while the USA 1600-2 and ti were fairly similar: Euro 1600-2: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,34958/ USA 1600-2: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,34957/ 1600-2ti: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,34956/ Anti-sway bars: according to the 1.11.67 parts book, the ti received bars at both front and rear. Look for the tiny "1600-2 ti" text next to the part numbers in the upper right hand part of the page. Also, the trailing arms are noted as being ti-specific, which lends credence to Slavs' note about them being boxed. Sadly, the specification to the part number on the reverse side of the sheet does not say what they are exactly: Front suspension: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,34960/ Rear suspension: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,download/id,34959/

(nt)

(nt)

Hi Nick. Long time. I see/hear conflicting accounts of the differences between the 1600 and the ti, so I'll just quote chapter and verse from the Mobile Traditions 'Orange Book'. From the specs section at the back of the volume, differences are: Engine: 9.5:1 compression (bore + stroke unchanged w/ use of piano tops) 105 bhp (vs 85) Dual Solex PHH carburettors Transmission: 3.90:1 (vs. 4.10 in 1600) Electrical: 490W three phase Alternator (vs 250W direct current until 1967, then same as ti) 12V Bosch W 200 T 30 spark plugs Brakes and suspension specs indicate no changes, but in the book's text (p. 42), it says about the 1600ti, "The car already had sporting characteristics, and had added torsion bar stabilizers fitted to both axles." I've read elsewhere that the ti only received an anti-sway bar up front. That sounds a little weird, so I'd go with MT on this one. The book also states in regard to the 1600ti that (p. 42) "The brake system with front mounted discs was given power assistance." The 1600ti parts that I got along with my 1600 included a tii-sized brake booster. I always just assumed it was a tii booster, but since the 1600 booster doesn't clear the side drafts and the ti long preceded the tii, I suppose it was a true ti part. There are other bits and pieces required to go the ti route, including a hard cooling line to re-route to the heater box, the intake can, and the linkages to the carbs. I know I'm forgetting some items here. On the outside of the car, the only differences were the black grilles per the later 2002s. Oh, and the badges.

Ohhhh, those bolts. Didn't catch the RS reference. They do shine up quick, though. Let's say, two minutes per bolt, tops, including mounting in the drill (uhh, carry the one). That's 4 hours, right? One hour per night for 4 nights? Your wife will never notice you're gone.

Not sure if it will work for your bolts, but in a related vein, I shined up some stainless carriage bolts by putting them in a drill and spinning them against 0000 steel wool with some rubbing compound. Zymol HD will also work in lieu of the polishing compound. They've stayed shiny for a couple of years now.

Bought this one on ebay for the 1602. The older roundel style suggests it was an aftermarket knob for an NK car. It's a screw-on.

From late last summer, I think.

HMS Motorsport sells a hitch for the X5 (and a lot of other BMWs as well) rated for 5000 pounds for less than 200 bucks. Apparently it's made by "Curt Trailer Hitches." See: http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/exterior/trailer-hitch/curt-hitches/#1952

Looks great! I have a similar set of NK steelies that I hope to deal with in a similar manner. a few questions, tho': are you sure those are E30 caps? E21 maybe? Are they fitted to the steel hub flange or kept in place by the lug nuts? And where'd you get the rings? I want..

I spent a few months trying to find correct .740" shank nuts in the States and came up empty. I ended up getting them imported for 6 bucks a nut from the US Minilite distributor, who used to be Main Street Motorsports in Milford CT. However, a google search shows that the distributor is now in Ohio somewhere: http://www.minilitewheels.us/ It appears they don't carry the old style "sport" wheels, which is what I'm guessing you have:

I bought mine in good condition but in need of refinishing for $250. The Wurth lacquer and clear were about another 100. My time to strip + refinish, about 10 hours, maybe. New center caps from Minilite were 12 bucks each. The killer was the lugnuts. Minilites are lugcentric and require flat shouldered nuts that precisely fit the lug bores. I spent a couple of months trying to source correctly sized nuts in the US -- unsuccessfully -- and finally resorted to importing correct nuts from Minilite thru the US distributor for about 100 bucks. Ouch.

+1 for Wheelsamerica. I had an Alpina wheel with a pretty nasty, 3-inch long dent repaired and painted at their flat rate ($125 IIRC). Excellent work, one week turnaround and it balanced out pretty well with no runout on the balancing machine. You might want to call to find out how things work for clearcoated (spun?) wheels. The damage to the Alpina was at 2 o'clock in this shot:

Someone had to do it.

Cheese.

(nt)

Windshields still available new from BMW MT, but they're 700 bucks by the time you've paid tax. The rear windscreen is a bit more. Worse, the front is remarkably difficult to install and easily broken, even by pros. Do not buy aftermarket -- they leak. On the other hand, you can still get them from folks who are parting coupes. Same goes for interior parts (or just about anything else) -- be patient and wait until a parts car comes along. See http://www.e9coupe.com .

We have 185/70-13 T4s on our 1600 and I like them well enough. I don't mean to damn them with faint praise, but I wish there was a better alternative at that size. I didn't want to go wider for the Sumis. I had both Avid V4s (basically the same as T4s, but V rated) and Sumi HTRs on our '87 535is and while the Sumis had a stiffer side wall, were more responsive in L to R transitions, and had a harder rubber compound that tended to maintain better grip when warm, the Avids were much better in the wet. The Avids lasted a bit longer as well on a car with lots of torque and negative camber that tended to burn up rear tires. Edit: also, I saw on another forum that Tire Rack is having a clearance sale on the Avid T4. Not sure if that means they'll be discontinued after that if it matters...

Sorry, I should be clearer. I meant S38 equipped cars (E28, E34).