MichaelP

Start with 87 and listen for detonation (aka pinging or knocking). Detonation is the sound of incomplete or delayed combustion. The higher the octane rating, the slower the fuel burns. Higher octane fuel has more potential energy, but requires greater heat as generated by higher compression. If you hear detonation with 87 octane, try moving up to the next highest octane and see if that helps, though unless your compression is higher than 9.3:1, 87 octane should be optimal.

naaaaaaaaaaaahhhh. C'mon Paul, show some spirit here. INATs are tricky to work on, mostly due to having both electric and water choke, but they're a fine carburetor. I dunno if it was lazy mechanics or a (sub)urban legend, but the whole 'ditch the Zeniths' thing got blown out of proportion years ago. Let's put it this way: if I can tune 'em, they can't be that bad. They're not as much a set-and-forget unit as the DGAV, but there isn't another carb available for the M30 that optimises CFM and fuel use as well as the INAT. All the Webers and Holleys either use too much gas or don't push enough air. That said, it's never crossed my mind to bolt one to an M10. Cool idea, but selecting/sorting the jets would be a big headache as there's no baseline (that I know of) for the M10. I think there were some +/-2 liter cars that used them, such as Opels and Benzes...

I'm not sure where it's from -- our M2's PO had them put together. I thought maybe they were from Summit. Who is Diamond? They're pretty heavy and currently serve as rollers in Matt McGinn's shop. If'n you'd want them, you could have them pretty cheap, though I think they're a different color these days...

13x8 puts you on competition tire turf. Good Year makes an Eagle that's DOT'd and Hoosier has several to choose from as well but you're not supposed to use them on the road.... IIRC Hankook and Cooper make 13" competition tires as well, but I dunno if they're DOT.

Like this? If so, try Pierce Manifolds: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm

Cool. Thanx all! Onward!

I have a good 2 liter motor with a DGAV from a '73 02 at my disposal to swap into our '71 1600. I'm thinking I'll just retain the 1600's Porsche type transmission for ease of swap. Besides having to deal with a difference in chokes (manual to automatic) is there anything else that I should be anticipating? I can't think of anything... FWIW, this would a temporary swap while I rebuild the 1.6 to ti specification.

Dual Solex PHH side drafts with stock air box.

Jet-Hot is a top-notch outfit. If you ask for an estimate from their website, you'll likely get a 10% off coupon. Their Sterling finish is the best deal -- it was $150 to coat a six cylinder M30 Stahl header a couple of years ago. The whole affair took a week, including shipping, and they even called me after blasting it (it was a used header) to ask if I wanted a thin spot/pinhole welded -- and they didn't charge for it. It came back looking like a million bucks.

To add to Old Guy's comments about weight distribution, there's also the concept of 'polar moment.' Think back to high school physics, the ball on a string, centripetal force and inertia. Now, think about where the battery is: ahead of the front wheels. That battery is a 40 pound ball on the end of a string. Newton's first law of motion says that an object at rest tends to stay at rest and an object in motion tends to stay in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force. So, for your 02 vis-a-vis your hood mounted battery, this means: imagine you're driving straight ahead and then you turn the wheel suddenly. The weight of the front of the car resists turning and wants to keep moving in a straight line (ball on a string). Then while you're in the turn, you straighten the wheel in an attempt to go straight ahead. Again, the weight of the front end (transferred to the tires) will resist changing direction. This is Newton's First Law applied. Your turning the wheel is the 'unbalanced force' that is acting upon the character of the car's motion. The object in the car's handling is to reduce the resistance to changing direction, which is accomplished by balancing the weight to all 4 wheels as close to the center of the car as possible. This is why mid-engine cars handle so well. But we don't have a mid-engine car. In fact, we have a car with a 40 pound battery as far away from the center of the car as it could possibly be, out in front of the front wheels. This is Bad. Imagine (hypothetically) if we nailed the battery to a end of 12 foot long 2x12 and then screwed that to the nose of the 02. Then, picture what would happen if, travelling at 60 mph, you turned the wheel hard. Assuming the 40 pound battery didn't snap off the 2x12, it would act as a huge pendulum, transferring tremendous resistance (exponential to its 40 lbs, actually) to the wheels to prevent the front end from turning. This resistance is called Polar Moment. Now imagine that effect on a smaller scale, as it is in your 02. It suggests that getting that lead ballast out of the nose of your car would reduce its polar moment and thus resistance to unbalanced forces acting on it (like turning). Therefore, moving that weight closer to the center of the car, such as over the rear wheels, would improve its handling. And the chicks dig it, too. If you're still with me, read Old Guy's post again.

What Steve says makes sense. It sounds like your trans might have come from a 320is, which had a 4.11 diff. Look at the speedodrive again. It must be geared to match the diff. Try your old speedo gear maybe? You say it looks the same, butcha nevah know... Stupid question, but I'll ask: it's not a cr trans, right?

Late 1600s came with tachometers. My '71 (1572840) did. Dunno when they started into standard production. Also, my rear drums are the same as 2002 drums. It probably became the same as 2002s when the 1600 was changed over to dual circuit brakes. It still didn't come with sway bars, though.

Given enough stash to make up for the missing bits, sure. The only differences from a 2002, besides the motor, that I can think of are (any of these things may have been updated/replaced): * 6 volt if it's an early car * long neck, 4.10:1 differential * mechanical clutch * single circuit, mechanical brakes * no anti-sway bars (though the front frame holes are there to receive fittings) * 6 bolts at output/prop shafts If the owner can come up with the motor, it's worth it to try just for grins. The 1.6L is a different animal from the 2.0L -- a rev-happy little beast that loves to live at the upper limits of rpm.

As a rule, it's a bad idea to order from small businesses via the internet. Human contact (the phone) works better. If you can't get through on the phone to 2002AD, leave a message asking Ben Miller (the owner) to call you back asap. Remember to be nice 2002AD won't stiff you, but they have a rep for sometimes spacing stuff out...

Taking the load off the whatever is causing the clicking will make it cease its racket (BTDT). Agreed it's likely the CV joint. I had the same clicking - the frequency of the clicking directly wheel speed related - and it was the CV. When it comes to the hunt for new CVs, they're NLA from BMW (grrr), but Carl Nelson has some as does Jim at Mesa. Maximiliian may have some laying around as well.

As Mike says above, see fourth line down below '02 limousine. Your vin falls between 1500001 and 1550000 for the 1600-02: http://www.bmw-02-club.de/fgnr.htm

Not sure what to do here. I have a set of Solex 40 PHH carbs sitting here on the table for my 1600. They have the correct venturies and jets per the 1600ti (!). I've also found a source for Solex PHH jets (Jaymic), but they're pretty expensive (~$100 for 4 mains, 4 corrector + 4 idle). The question is, do jets go bad? I have no idea how old the jets in the carbs are, though they're very clean, as are the PHHs. In the interest of installing the carbs expeditiously, should I just bite the bullet and order a set, or is it unusual for them to fail? Do particular jets tend to fail more frequently than others -- e.g. do corrector jets tend to fail more than mains, etc?

I know just enough about MS to be a danger to myself and the the public. I've always thought of it as a piggyback system to be wired into an existing loom, but I guess you could build up a new harness with an RF, temp sensor and TPS (bmw?). Ignition would be distributorless wasted spark? Sorry about the timing cover remark - I was wrong. FWIW the blue caps over the injectors indicate that they been serviced or replaced at some point. The throttle body inlets look pretty clean, as does the rest of it. It's a risk, but the mileage is a plus.

Seems to missing a lot of parts: distributor (cam driven - see flange at front of motor) and harness, electrical harness, timing chain/cover, water pump, flywheel, sensors, intake plenum, oil cooler/filter mount, etc. Even if you megasquirt it, you're still going to need all that stuff. Seems you'd need another motor to cannabalize, tho' maybe that's what this one was for....

Here's a shot at it. Riviera is tricky.

Our little guy's first ride home from the hospital was in our '74 02 and he's been riding around in that and our '71 1602 for the past 5 years. Neither cars are DDs, and though 02s aren't the safest cars on the road impactwise, I look at it as a quality of life matter. The '74 has inertia reel lap belts which aren't adjustable, but if you cross both belts though the child seat (5-point, not booster type) to the opposite latch, it nails the seat down tight, with no real need for LATCH. It also puts the kiddo in the middle of the car, which is safest from a side impact perspective. Our 1602 has adjustable, non-inertia type lap belts which can work similar to above or with just one belt (off to one side for an extra passenger) if I really push the child seat down hard by getting in it myself while tightening. Now that our boy is riding in a booster seat that uses regular shoulder belts (no belts associated with the seat), it's problematic. I need to install shoulder belts in back somehow before he can ride in the 02 again.

If you're looking for more torque at the wheels, how 'bout smaller diameter tires? It's cheaper than a special-order diff, and easy to swap back if you don't like it. I'm not smart enough to calculate the difference for torque, but the math for rpms with different tire diameters with the same diff is rpm = (speed x diff ratio x 336) / tire dia assume 50 mph and 23.2" as stock tire diameter (185/70 x 13): (50 x 4.11 x 336) / 23.2 = 2976 rpm If you go to, say, 185/60 x 13s, tire dia is 21.8": (50 x 4.11 x 336) / 21.8 = 3167 rpm If you grok that back through the first equation, you end up with an equivalent of a 4.37:1 ratio by going with a 1.4" smaller dia tire.

There are two posts, ~1 3/16" or 55.5mm on center. the OD of the ring is ~88mm. But... I've never seen the ring seperately. It seems that the rings were made available for the 80mm smooth, enamel roundels that were used on e12,28,24, etc. The only raised letter type roundels I've seen are single piece as in the photos below, though my old 2800CS parts book shows them seperately, so they may well have been available for the raised type as well.

It does sound like an S14, though -- to me anyway... Maybe it's an Italian 2.0L?

To increase oversteer/decrease understeer (copy/paste from Korman's site, http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/thandling.htm ): Front tire pressure = higher Rear tire pressure = lower Front tire width = larger Rear tire width = smaller Front camber = more negative Rear camber = more positive Front springs = softer Rear springs = stiffer Front anti-sway bar = softer Rear anti-sway bar = stiffer Free fixes: Check your tire pressures and try different ones. If it's cranked all the way up the rod, relax the tightness of the front anti-sway. Vice-versa for the rear. Money oriented fixes: Sounds like your front anti-sway and springs are too stiff relative to the rear-- OR -- if you're not using front camber plates (fixed or adjustable) with that setup, you should. They'll go towards solving the understeer issue and improve turn-in as well. I'd try the latter with fixed plates (if this is for the street), as you can keep your stock strut bearings, and thereby, the fillings in your teeth.