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  1. After my Roundie M20 project, I set my sites on an E28. Found an M535i 200 miles North about a year and a half ago. Trailed it home and it's been sitting since... Finally got some time over the last month or two and began gathering parts at the local pick-n-pulls. Started with the fuel system - replaced tank, pumps, filter, hose, fuel rail, injectors and flushed everything with new fuel. Replaced fuel and main relays then tried starting... no clicky. Pulled the starter, replaced with b35 version - voila!!! From the paperwork I have, car has not been started since 1999 - until last week. So much to do, still figuring out what's next... Here's some pics: Follow the restoration progress on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/willie.makut.bmw
  2. Yes, I found the radiator was not running a little hot. Not sure with the brake booster, never looked into it. The previous engine was blown when I bought it, so I've only driven it with the straight 6 - have nothing to compare it to.
  3. Car's been running great... not too much to report. Drive the car 30 miles round trip to work and back when it's not raining and get her out on the weekends when I can. Next up is a 1985 M535i which I've had for about a year now. Haven't touched it yet - it needs a ton of work...
  4. Nice project - enjoyed reading through all of your posts... Good luck finishing up! Cheers, Chris
  5. Looking for the rear license plate lights for a roundie. Thanks, Chris West Linn, OR cjreents at gmail . com
  6. I run two temp gauges, stock and a VDO unit mounted in the center column. I removed one of the extra "plugs" on the thermostat housing and added a VDO temp sender, then hooked this up directly to the VDO unit. As for the tach, I bought a potentiometer from Radio Shack and a 6cyl tach from Harbor Freight. Soldered the potentiometer onto the back of the tach, then hooked up the Harbor Freight tach to the coil. Turned the engine on and adjusted the potentiometer on the stock tach to output the same reading that was on the 6cyl tach. Rev the engine a few times to make sure it is adjusted properly, then you can remove the Harbor Freight tach, put it back in the box and return it if you're so inclined. Leave the potentiometer hooked up to the stock tach and re-assemble the console - you now have a tach adjusted for 6 cylinders. - Chris
  7. After running the 323i radiator for about a year, it had a tough time cooling the engine in the warmer weather (although it was used and has seen some miles). I recently swapped it out for a brand new Scirocco rad ($65) which has performed flawlessly. Car runs consistently around 185-190 degrees and the fan kicks on around 200. Within a few seconds the temp gauge is right back to the middle. I'm also running a small Setrab oil cooler in front of the radiator and electric fan. - Chris
  8. I too have set of 15" Panasports and have contemplated going to 16" Alpina wheels. The knock off sets that I've heard of are called Kopi and you can find them at this site: http://www.abrahamsmotorsport.com/kopi.html PS: They carry 15" but not 16".
  9. I wish my wife and I could have made the trip this year, looks like it was a blast. Hopefully a trip will be organized again next year...
  10. Here's my post on the Porsche fan motor. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,339944/highlight,/
  11. See the link in my signature... Email if you have questions.
  12. I swapped out the e21 323i radiator for a brand new Scirocco rad that I bought from autohausaz.com for less than $60. I had to cut out a bit more sheet metal to make it fit... then added a new piece of metal to cover the radiator and fan. The Scirocco radiator has two plastic tabs at the bottom of the radiator. I bent a couple pieces of metal then drilled holes for the tabs to rest in: At the top of the radiator there are two slots on each end. Again a couple pieces of metal welded to the cover piece... they slide down into the grooves on the radiator: I used SPAL radiator fan mounts (#30130011) to attach the fan to the radiator.
  13. 1. I had Oil Filter Service (in PDX) make a line, which is basically a break line that I connected to the existing hard line using a coupler. 2. Lokar (bought from Summit Racing).
  14. Not sure yet, just finished installing it last night and haven't had the car warmed up long enough to feed hot coolant through the heater core. I'll keep you posted...
  15. I received the part (# 0130007081) and as near as I can tell it is identical and fits perfectly. Simply had to reverse the rotation of the shaft to spin the fan in the right direction... To view the entire heater box rebuild, go here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,304236/start,30/
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