MichaelP

If you're using the Getrag 265 (the trans outta the M3), it will not (absolutely, positively) fit into the stock tunnel - even if it's the larger 02 automatic tunnel. The width is tight, but it's the height of the tunnel that needs to be enlarged. I doubt if the 265 and the motor will go in together. The nose was off our car when the motor went in, so I'm not too helpful there.

Same boat here. It's a real drag that the Sumitomo HTR doesn't come in that size, considering how many other 13's they offer for that tire. Supposedly, if enough folks indicate demand to Tire Rack, they have some pull with manufacturers. So be sure to mention it if you call. The best tire I've been able to find in 185/70-13 at any price is the Yoko Avid (Tire Rack). I have the V version of them on my e28 and they're ok -- wouldn't want to track them any time soon, but they're sorta sticky and really good in rain. If you find anyting better, please let us know.

Coulda woulda shoulda.. oh well. I've been sixes and sevens on whether to clean up the 6x13 Minilites or the Alpina Borranis first, and the Minilites will be quicker - aside from the brake dust, they're a cinch. The 6x13 Alpinas have some rust that needs help and centercaps are a bitch to source. Next time I head up your way, I'll drag the Alpinas along to 'yer blaster.

Good idea. Forgot about those. I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

Ya, I'm a little leery of easy-off. There's no finish on the inside of the wheel, so the quarter-inch wide strip of thick dust has fastened itself to to the aluminum. So far, I've had more success with number 3 grade steel wool than the Scotch-brite pad. I might gently try a soft brass wire wheel on the grinder.

I'm prepping a set of Minilites for paint and there is a quarter inch or so ring of caked brake dust on the inner rim that resists every effort to remove it. Most of the dust came off with coarse steel wool, but this last ring won't budge. Is there a solvent that will help here?

Best way to get ahold of Steve is to call him. 706-647-1485. I 've never found emailing any parts supplier to very productive.

You might try calling Carl Nelson at LaJolla Independent (www.bimmerdoc.com) and explaining your situation. If he doesn't have a half set laying around, he might split a set for you. Korman (www.kormanfastbmw.com) might do the same thing, but I'm not sure they're carrying STs any more.

http://www.gts-classics.com/seats.html

try looking in the yellow pages under "automobile body shop equip & supplies." That's where the body shops, er.. shop. Leatherique is good and I've had success with SEM dyes.

He posted a few threads on this topic a few months back and it seems he successfully home-brewed a linkage. Here's one thread: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,265802/highlight,solex/ Scottie's in San Jose if that helps.

How 'bout a Berlina?: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/144056182.html Alfa board: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19

The price is damn good.

Those are supposedly nla (as I posted above earlier): http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2554&mospid=47130&btnr=51_3321&hg=51&fg=15 Can't hurt to call around, tho. A pair went for $150 on ebay yesterday: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-2002-EURO-FRONT-BUMPER-GARDS-NEW_W0QQitemZ8047950542QQcategoryZ33640QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem One last option is to go naked. I'm thinking about doing this on my 1602. The bolts are visible, but it looks clean:

TWM list some for the PHH, but the length seems odd. Might be worth giving them a call: http://www.twminduction.com/AirHorn/AirHorn-FR.html

There's small, the early euro ones that are nla (this is a 1600, but the early 2002 were the same). These always seem to appear on early, non-rubbered bumpers: Then there's medium which are still available and probably the ones you found. These always seem to show up on later, rubbered bumpers: and there's large, though I'm pretty fuzzy on when these were introduced where. I've seen them on both rubbered (late) and non-rubbered (early) bumpers:

hey, i can loan you a set of spacers if you want. i think they're ~1/4" or so. they're just sittin' in the basement.

We have a prop rod for the fiberglass hood on the M2 and every time the wind blows with the hood open, watch out! The hood bounces open to its fullest extent, denting the hell out of the kidney grille and then SLAMS shut. It happens so fast that I've been chomped a few times while under there. Track infields get pretty windy. You might design the rod with a flange + jesus clip at the top so it fixes the hood in place while it's open.

size (mm): 4230L x 1590W x 1410H = (in) 167L x 63W x 55H weight (unladen): 990kg = 2183lbs

Using steel inserts for aluminum wheels is a recipe for disaster - or more specifically, galvanic corrosion. Both steel and aluminum are anodic metals (as opposed to noble -- or how corrosive they are in seawater) and are best isolated by plastic or brass (something, anything) whether your building buildings, boats or cars, especially in exterior applications. Over time, the alloys in the metals react to one another (spurred on by salts), ionizing the aluminum and creating a corrosion layer. I'm guessing the aluminum failure in the Octavos is the galvanic stress of the new corrosion layer having nowhere to go but outward. Short story: don't use steel (or some kinds of stainless) and aluminum together without something in between. Here's a handy chart: Galvanic Corrosion Information * The Galvanic Corrosion table is a measure of how dissimilar metals will react in sea water. * Generally, the further apart items are on the table the greater the galvanic corrosion that will result. * The material closest to the anodic end will corrode more rapidly. Noble (Least Corrosive) Platinum Gold Graphite Silver Stainless steel, type 316 (passive) Stainless steel, type 304 (passive) Titanium Stainless steel, type 410 (passive) 7Ni-33Cu alloy 75Ni-16Cr-7Fe alloy (passive) Nickel (passive) Silver solder M-Bronze G-Bronze 70-30 cupro-nickel Silicon bronze Copper Red brass Aluminum bronze Admiralty brass Yellow brass 76Ni-16Cr-7Fe alloy (active) Nickel (active) Naval brass Manganese bronze Muntz metal Tin Lead Stainless steel, type 316 (active) Stainless steel, type 304 (active) Stainless steel, type 410 (active) Cast iron Mild steel Aluminum 2017, 2024, 2117 Cadmium Alclad Aluminum 1100, 3003, 3004, 5052, 6063 Galvanized steel Zinc Magnesium alloys Magnesium Anodic (Most Corrosive)

Even the "premium" sound system in an e28 is pretty awful. I'm trying to figure out with what to replace the one in our 535is. By today's standards the speakers are lousy and by now brittle. You'd do better at Walmart. The head units aren't known for longevity.

John Harvey gets his 15 minutes on page 12 of May's Classic Motorsports as a current reader project. There's a shot of John and his shell, both clad in Colorado. Yay!

Also check the throttle position sensor. Might be a bad master relay?

The guy I bought my 1600 from collected everything neccessary to convert it to a 1600ti (including the ti badge), but then never did the swap. I'm doing the conversion, but will skip the ti badge. Imagine: every time someone starts asking about it being a ti, you'll have to eventually offer that's it's not really a ti, etc. Downer. To add to Jerry's list, I think you need high compression pistons in there too. There's also a bunch of little stuff, like a coolant bypass pipe, tii exhast manifold, etc. Some stuff is easy to get, some hard to find.

057 was superceded by the later 060 due to durability problems of the former. Apparently, UV was breaking the 057 mix down causing it to darken.