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  1. No worries with a common ground, provided the wire is an appropriate gauge.
  2. Perhaps the good news is that if it sticking that well, it shouldn't be hiding any significant rust.
  3. basics... 1. add fuel stabilizer and top up the fuel tank 2. change oil and filter 3. check coolant... flush and re-fill with fresh coolant if you can't remember the last time you did it. 4. wash the car... paying close attention to the underside and the wheel wells 5. disconnect fuel line from carb and run the engine till carb is dry 6. disconnect the battery 7. cover the car if you want to go the extra mile.... 8. flush brake fluid if not done within the last 24 months (will help prevent internal corrision and seizure of MC, calipers, and wheel cylinders) 9. jack the car and support on blocks
  4. The Mahle OC84 is apparently an equivalent substitution for the standard Mahle OC25. I don't have details on physical dimensions, but I have been told that the OC84 has a higher pressure rating (30 bar I think), and is better suited for the demands of colder climates, where oil pressure may be high on initial startup.
  5. Don't ever mess with half-assed brake lines... it isn't worth the risk! Make sure you flare them properly! You should be able to find a proper bubble flaring tool on Ebay for about $20... or you can just buy a replacement brake line to replace the one with the damaged fitting. You may find that your existing line is too short to redo the flare anyway.... As for the water/coolant question... no problems running regular water for short periods of time... (i.e. a few hours or days). For longer term use, you should use a water/antifreeze mixture , or an additive like Redline Water Wetter that contains wetting agents and anti-corrosives to protect your engine and cooling system.
  6. I'd be interested in the turn signal , high-beam and wiper stalks from the steering column, as well as the related portions of the wiring harness (assuming you don't mind cutting it..)... also the headlamp switch from the dash if Esty doesn't need it. Oh.. and the intermittent wiper relay too! I am hoping to scrounge the required parts to convert my '73 to the updated signal/wiper stalks...
  7. Stated pump octane ratings in Canada are based on the formula (R + M)/2.... presumably just meaning that they take the average of the RON and MON ratings. 94 Octane pump gas is available at Sunoco, but I have not seen higher octane fuel at other stations. Regular gas is 87, and the premium gas at most pumps is 91 octane.
  8. I'm going to need a replacement as well...
  9. You can source all of the fasteners from a BMW dealer, but for most fasteners, you can probably find a local supplier of industrial fasteners in your yellow pages if your auto parts suppliers can't supply the correct items. Another tip... you can use www.realoem.com as a resource to verify the dimensions of most of the fasteners you need.
  10. Other than a bit of gas line antifeeze, no other fuel or oil additives should be neccessary.... As for oil... you probably want to avoid using 20W50 in the winter..... perhaps a 10W40 instead... and you may also want to consider using an oil filter with a high-pressure rating.
  11. I just replaced my rear springs last weekend... and spring compressors were not required!! The procedure does require disconnecting the outer end of each of the axle shafts so that the swing arm can drop lower to allow you to remove the spring, and install the new one. The only difficult parts of the job were dealing with the occasional rusted/seized fastener... be prepared to replace a couple of the allen-headed cap screws securing the axle shafts to the stub axle. Its a bit tedious... but not difficult.
  12. The stock headlight wiring on the early cars (without the relays) is generally considered inadequate... borderline at best. I have personally had to replace burned out headlight switches, high beam dimmer switches, and melted portions of the wiring harness, just running standard halogen sealed beam headlamps. Knowing that these switches are vulnerable, expensive, and may be unobtanium very soon, it seems prudent to install appropriate relays to avoid these problems. Without the relays, there is just too much current flowing through these switch contacts and lengths of light gauge wire. In a worst case scenario... you could also be eliminating a potential fire hazard!
  13. ... in a pinch, you could always add an octane booster additive to regular pump gas, but that would get tiresome (and expensive) fairly quickly for a DD.
  14. I'm no expert, but I would expect that you are looking at premium (high octane) pump gas even with a 9.5:1 CR....
  15. As I slowly work my way through various systems on my '73 2002I am finding a variety of curious things that need attention. The most unusual one so far if the way the carb has been set up. The PO had somehow managed to set up the Weber 32/36 with an open vacuum port! The vacuum port on the intake manifold at the base of the carb (where you would expect the vacuum advance to be attached) had a one inch piece of tube slipped over the fitting.... but it is not plugged, and goes nowhere! The car will not idle if I put a cap on this fitting... so I am presuming I need to reset the "best lean idle" mixture and idle speed according to the normal adjustment procedure after I cap the fitting. Before I change anything ... is there any legitimate reason for the carb to be set up this way? While I am at it, would it be advisable to re-route the vacuum line for the dizzy to this location? The dizzy vacuum line is currently attached to a manifold fitting closer to the #3 and #4 cylinders.
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