DukeRimmer

(nt)

Plastic clips go on first. When installing the lock pins in the plastic clips, back up the inside of clip with dolly or other heavy metal tool to prevent flexing sheet metal, especially at the center of door. Metal fasteners are used on the fenders (two bolts), one at the rear of door, one at the front of the front 1/4 moulding, and two at rear 1/4 moulding. You need the metal bolts to keep the door and front 1/4 from sliding fore and aft. Do use plastic nuts to save your paint. To install put the bolts into the mouldings, hook the bottom of moulding over the bottom of plastic clip, push up and in to seat top of moulding. Tighten fender bolts last so you can better see that they're straight. When painting the car, clean the plastic clip holes of all undercoats just before application of the top coat. Too much paint at these holes will crack the finish and invite rust devils.

They don't look great, but improve function.

mark the end attachment points, remove bumper, then drill. Eyeball and mark, don't measure. Good luck.

I have spare carbs, both brands, four speeds, flywheels, pedal units, etc.... all very cheap. Please forgive me for dumping several tons of e3 parts. Had to make room for more '02 stuff.

Parts Front panels, sometimes called nose panels, are all the same in the headlamp area. Headlamp bracket/bucket assemblies are all the same except for right-left differences. Right and left are made from the same parts with the buckets welded at different angles. Adjusters are all on the same side, so it’s good to mark left and right. The difference is not easy to see. The beam retainers all bolt on at the same points. ’67 to early ’72 retainers have a 3mm notch at the top to locate the chrome fillers used with deep bezel grills. Late ’72-’73 retainers have no notch and are silver. ’74-’76 retainers have no notch and are black. ’67-’72 fillers are chrome plated with a pressed square at the top to fit the retaining ring notch. They are not part of the retaining ring. Left and right are not the same. The wider part of the filler goes toward the inside of car. There was originally a rubber filler fitted to the chrome filler, part #63 12 8 650 109. Install If your headlamp assembly is still on the car, loosen the four 5mm nuts that hold it to the front panel until it floats freely. If it’s off the car have a close look at the plastic adjustment nuts. If the adjustment bolts look like they’re not straight, replace the nuts. It’s a good idea to disassemble the unit, run the bolts through a die to clean the threads, and lube the bucket where it contacts the bracket, after cleaning of course. Install the headlamp unit on the front panel but leave it loose. Adjust the beam to point roughly straight ahead. Install the grill. Center the lamp in the headlamp door (bezel) part of the grill. Tighten headlamp retaining nuts. Finish beam adjustment. Now you’re finished except for wishing you had the rubber fillers that clean up the gap left by the chrome fillers, if you’re working with deep grills. This gap between headlamp filler and bezel part of grill should be about the size of your door gaps. If the gaps look real bad after lamps are tightened and beam is adjusted, the problem is bent front panel at the headlamp mounting area. Photos 023 shows deep and shallow headlamp door grills. 023b shows the subtle difference between left and right headlamp bracket/buckets. 023c shows early beam retainer with its filler locating notch, and chrome filler.

Not critical. Deep uses a filler, shallow does not. Same front panel(nose panel), same lamps. I'll post pics of fillers and how they're fastened if interested. IMHO new grills are for cars with new paint. Used grills for daily drivers.

If turn switch to lamp circuits light, turn switch is ok, flasher passes out of car test, and flasher is grounded, then applying power to +49 of flasher should give you signals. Then it's time to work on hazards.

Coil 15, ignition 15, instrument round connector 1. This circuit is one source of power with key in on position. If you're going to start from scratch, there are other such circuits available at the fuse box. Applying power, at the turn switch connector, to the blue and black should turn on the right side lamps, blue and red the left. This would test the switch connector through lamp circuits. Looks like interupted power comes from the flasher through the green and yellow. If that's correct, power to green and yellow should light the lamps with the turn switch.

Most of this info comes from blue binder manual. Wiring diagram of turn switch shows blue and black going to right side lamps and hazard switch. Blue and red to left side lamps and hazard switch. Gray and black, gray and green, yellow and white to light switch. Green to coil, ignition switch, and instruments. Gray and black to #7 fuse. White and blue to #11 fuse. Yellow and white to low beam relay. Green and yellow to flasher. The three four prong relays near the battery are low beam, horns, and high beam. Testing flasher in car; Switch on ignition for a brief period only. Apply test lamp to terminal +49. If test lamp lights, flasher is defective. Testing flasher out of car; Apply 12 volt to +49 terminal, and ground -31 terminal. Connect 2 x 21 watt test lamps to terminal 49a and a 3 watt lamp to terminal C. The lamps should flash.

Both circuits terminate at the lamps which are fed from the turn switch. Turn switch is fed from both the hazard switch and the flasher. Our late hazard switches (we’re talking about your’76, right?) can not be connected incorrectly because of a central spade connector. The flasher and turn switch can not be wrong because of the shape of connectors. The hazard circuit is fed through #2 fuse, the turn circuit is not. Removing the fuse interrupts the hazard but not the turn circuit. Removing the hazard switch or flasher stops both circuits. I hope you have the parts to try replacing hazard switch, flasher, and then the turn switch in that order with known good units.

Hope it'll help. The one on far right is a '67 only. Not sure about the centers.

I knew how, along with the sunroof handle spring.

Once the bench is cleared and paper is laid out it's easy to make two as it is to make one. Yours would be three. Glad to make more for anyone willing to send Steve K a contribution. Instructions are at the top of parts forum. I think this scheme is more attractive to the cash contributor if it's kept simple, so parts contributor should pay shipping.

Make a contribution to this forum, I'll send patterns and pay the shipping.

Sounds like a matter of wrestling bent brackets back into shape. Best of luck!

Do you have the spacer blocks between brackets and bumper? Rubber grommets between ends and fenders?

(nt)

Filler neck fits perfectly on early tanks. I have a spare for $25.00 shipping included. If interested, I'll check fitment to later tank for you. You'll need a new hose, maybe a cap.

(nt)

Front to rear adjustment is made at the six hinge to hood bolts. Front to rear is also affected by the torsion bar adjustments at the top of fenders. Please adjust hood to door gap to match the trunk to 1/4 gap, not the fender to door gap. Pic below shows proper gap and what happens if it's to tight. Hood weight should be lifted mostly by the torsion bars, and there should be no free play when you lift the trailing edges of the hood after it is locked down.

If you're a real perfectionist, you'll need the shorter odo reset knob as well as the lens retainer rings.

Yes you can bend them. You must grip the inside (base) of stalk firmly and allow no movement of the switch body. I used large channel lock plier to hold base, and no tool on the knob end to bend. The switch is brittle plastic and will break with very little pressure. Bend the metal stalk, but no stress on plastic switch body. Good luck and hope you like the results as much as I like my Moto-Lita.

I've been wondering where these wheels came from for ten years, when I took them off a '67 1600. Great bit of trivia.

(nt)