DukeRimmer

replace the metal. Quicker way is fiberglass cloth. One way I've seen is aluminum tape, certainly not the best. Remember that removing and replacing rear glass is the safest way to develop your windshield install technique. Good luck.

(nt)

You need to remove the glass for a look see. Post pics.

While there is room to complain about price, it's the quality control that's gone sour. Some times, like rocker mouldings, used is better.

(nt)

Didn't think to look in interior.

here and retain the size. Also don't know where to find this very stiff wire. I was offering to snail mail the pattern on paper, and a length of wire. Bradley, Don't you have a corroded handle? Do you still need more than the spring? Tell me your plan and we'll make it happen.

I found today eight sunroof cranks in my collection. Only two had original springs, and two had been "repaired" using coil springs. I bent up some very stiff wire using two pair of stout needle nose pliers. Amazing how well it worked. If you have a sagging handle,and want to try it, I'll send you a tracing of an original spring, and a length of wire.

(nt)

The hard plastic tool Toby refers to is called a bone by those who use them. They have a place in my tool box, but I prefer screw drivers because the handles make them easier to use. If your screwdrivers are capable of scratching glass, or driving screws, they’re too sharp. The rope installing tube is held at a right angle to the seal and dragged inside around the circumference. The rope slips through the tube and is installed in less than ten seconds if you’re very slow, under three if you hurry. The wiper remover relieves spring tension so the wiper lifts off easily.

I would have one if you were not so far away.

Removal Step1; Remove wipers. Step2; If the rubber shows no trace of cracking, and is not glued down, insert a small screw driver, without scratching the paint, lift up to test for rubber softness and stretch. If your car is a beater like mine and the rubber is soft you can save it by pushing it out from inside the car. Using two very worn screw drivers pull the inner lip of the seal down at the top and push it forward past edge of the car body. Holding that tiny bit of seal past the metal edge, push out another ¼ inch with another worn screw driver. Repeat several times working the top out evenly. Go around both corners and down both sides evenly. Tilt forward and rock until the assembly can be lifted away. You’ll probably need to make the screw drivers because they need to have round corners and no sharp edges. If they still work for screws, they’re too sharp. Please do not scratch paint or tear headliners. OR Step2; Insert utility knife between glass and seal, cut to the lock strip at the top and both sides. Cut til inner rubber and lock strip fall away. You'll then see the edge of glass. Push glass out from inside. Step 3; Clean under seal area without scratching paint. Attach headliner, if loose, with contact cement such as wurth rubber glue. Installation Step1; With the glass face down on a soft bench, stretch the rubber over the glass. Turn over and install the lock strip. Leave the ends of the lock strip protruding from the center of the bottom of the seal. Step2; Insert rope so it exits from the center of the bottom of seal. Bundle the excess ends and tape them to the inside of glass. Tape the top of seal to glass with two strips 2 feet apart. Lube the rear most lip of the seal both inside and out. Step3; Put glass/seal assembly in place using a volunteer, if you must, then send your helpers home. Step to the front of the car and see that the lower corners are centered. Step4; Standing in the doorway, push down on the upper part of assembly with one hand while pulling rope with the other. Pull rope 10”-12” and repeat from the other side. Step to front of car and see that the lower corners are centered. Use the same technique to pull another 12” on each side and check for centering from front of car. While pushing down firmly on top, rope in the lower corners and check for centering from front of car. Step5; You are now finished pushing and will slap the glass into place with glancing blows in the direction you want the glass to move (mostly down). In the end you will have a pleasant little tingle in both palms and all fingers. Standing in front of the open door, slap the glass in with one hand while pulling the rope half way up one side with the other. Repeat from the other side. The lower corners should now look normal from the front of car, and the seal must look seated at the dash as seen from inside the car. If it looks wrong at the dash or if the lower corners are not perfectly centered, start over. Step6; Remove the tape from the top. Slap and rope in one upper corner. The lower portion, and one side of the seal should now look normal from inside the car. Slap and pull in the rest of the seal. See that the inside lip of seal looks normal, and that the outside of upper corners are not bulging. If there is bulging, or the inner lip is not seated completely, start over, making sure you start by fully seating and centering the bottom of the seal. Step7; Cut the lock strip and install the joint cover. Leave plenty of lock strip under the cover to allow for shrinkage. Photos Pic #187; Removal. Pic #137; Worlds most convenient contact adhesive. Pic #138; I use wire pulling lube. The tool on the left is a lock strip installer purchased when I thought the strip was installed last. It hasn’t been used since 1984. At the center is my nylon rope with section of radio antennae for easy installation. It allows you to push the rope in very quickly. The tool at the right is a wiper remover.

Put the thing in first; Put the seal around the glass, install the lock strip leaving it hanging out the bottom, install the assembly, cut the strip, install the joint blind. Bobs your uncle.

(nt)

Check the gauge and wireing by watching for full needle movement while grounding and disconnecting the wire at the tank.

Disassemble and clean.

1. e3 visor under '02 visor 2. e21 visors with e3 mirror

Sorry no pics. Let me know when you get the cables. Are you doing seals? Cables are easy, but plenty of room for error when changing seals.

Tinkidz is advising pro contact adhesive for the headliner. My favorite pro in santa cruz is Robert's on Chanticleer. I use wurth rubber glue for sunroof seals. I wrote and saved the following for someone working with seals. Let me know if you have questions about cables. Open the sunroof just enough to grasp the front of the headliner. Pull down till the clips are free of the sunroof and push back a little. Close the sunroof, and slide the headliner all the way back. Remove the four retaining screws, and if you’re worried about adjustment, tape the knurled adjustment nuts in position. Push the front of the slider up, and lift forward and out. Watch the sharp rear corners as they pass the fixed roof to avoid paint damage. Start the front seal at the end, and the rear seal at the center. Mask the roof at the edge of the radius to aid clean up. Use contact adhesive technique, meaning apply glue to both surfaces and allow it to tack before applying seal. It will instantly bond so there's no need to tape it in place. Glue the side of the seal that has the seam. I've seen main (front) seals cut short so the ends are exposed. This will begin to unravel in about ten minutes. It wants to have two sharp bends in the ends so that it terminates 20mm under the roof. There is an indentation in the jamb to accept the ends. The rear seal wants to curve down before ending. When closed you want to see no ends. It's a good idea also to end the rubber insert 4mm short of the felt to allow it to fit more snuggly into the gap, and to glue the ends to prevent unraveling. I like to very tightly tape the ends down and leave to dry over night. This is, again, to get the rear seal into the gap as far as possible. Both seals want to stand 1mm proud of the roof. Some guys refer to the rubber strip glued to the rear of the sliding roof as a seal, but it's a bumper to prevent knocking on rough roads. It does not need replacing until it's cracked. Others think the felt seals should be water tight. They are not. Water intrusion is a result of plugged drains. Your sunroof is very easy to remove and replace, so why bother trying to install felt seals without removal? Installation of the seals on the other hand is not easy. There are many ways to make errors. The glue can be applied so that it’s visible on the seal when the job is done. The masking can get glued in the gap between paint and seal and be hard to remove. I like to remove it immediately to prevent this, but then the glue is still sticky and stringy so it can be messy. The hardest part is locating the curves in the rear corners, especially if you don’t have an original to use as a guide. Sorry I don’t have pics that would make this text more understandable. Best of luck with your project.

I have the know how, the parts, and I'm in Santa Cruz. Cables are so weak you should buy new if you can.

So it sounds like you want a two outlet for the brakes, and a one outlet for the clutch, both with float switches, and an idiot light?

from BMW and MBz. Are you thinking two permanent units or some temporary repair set up?

It removes hard coatings. Rubbery bits like undercoat and thick grease will remain.

When I built my '68, I had no BMW doner, so it got a '77 Audi graft. Also grafting puts the seam where it is accessible from both sides, so you can rust proof it. Much, much better than welds at the drip rails and in the glass seals where they're out of reach and ready to start rusting.

Sandblast will warp the roof, 1/4s, rear panel, and any other place that is sort of flat. Sand is only for drip rails, posts, and other super strong areas. Media blasting is advertisied as not warping panels, but '02 hoods are so close to flat that it's a gamble not worth taking. You should be ok doing the shell only, but be sure it's guaranteed not to warp. Good luck.