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DukeRimmer

Solex
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Everything posted by DukeRimmer

  1. My plan to contribute to the forum is working. Letting the parts go tomorrow without payment. Guidance needed.
  2. I think high on freeway, low in town is inadequate capacity. Small fan would be high in town. Three row radiator core? Pull freeze plugs and clean block?
  3. I've always bench bled all masters. On a really primitive car, like my '57 chev truck, cylinder bleeding is not even needed (if the brake gods are smiling).
  4. Don't remember exact details, but removing smog junk included a small ignition wire harness. I remember having to add a few wires to replace it. Also there was little power gain until the vacuum retard dist. found the dumpster.
  5. Esty tried to teach me to insert quotes, but I still don't get it. She says "clutch is working". So the mystery is how could it work without fluid supply?
  6. It's a joke, right, like "where can I find the vacuum"? If not, Polloelastico knows best, and has a great name. Also I have an extra steel line to clutch master for you if that's missing.
  7. The buyer could name his own price. All you need do is word the sticky and post when payment is received, but no one is posting replies to my idea. Could it be my clumsy wording? Perhaps we need to be reminded of the cost of running the site.
  8. Why no reply to my post in Site Suggestions and Questions? I'd like to do it with some mirrors, but must reply to one post now.
  9. I've never heard the term either, Andy.
  10. parts could be paid for with contribution to this forum? Buyer decides value, Forum rep posts that payment is received, Seller pays postage and sends part.
  11. I found only two types. That one is on my '68 the other is on '74. I have a '67 engine with generator, but the v/c is like my '74. I have a couple of generators on the shelf, indicating other dismantled '67s, but no v/c without lines. Must be very rare.
  12. 1.Front 2.All three equally You should see the center pull down a bit after initial contact of the plastic side bumpers to fender tops. The sides want to be adjusted so that there is no play when you lift the sides in locked position, and you want no side splay while locking. The hood/door gap is much wider than the fender/door gap. A narrow gap here ruins both hood paint and drip rail moulding. The hinges need to hold the hood side mouldings in line with the door and other side mouldings.
  13. Please don't do it. Plastic grills aren't that bad. If you must, change the entire front panel.
  14. Car is chopped for the convenience of my dogs. Never noticed gas smell. Smells like dogs. Also good for hauling lumber.
  15. Mine has two e21 flare joints welded in, no cutting needed for complete removal of entire exhaust. Disclaimer; this driver cares not one whit about performance. It's an econo-car. Solex one barrels rule!
  16. The mounts are soft enough to damage the radiator when braking even when the mounts are new. Everyone should know that, shouldn't have to hear it from an old body guy.
  17. I can't drive, or do much of anything else for the next week due to pacemaker implant. Very boring. The front to back play is adjusted useing what you see in pic numbers 238 and 239. 240 and 241 are the stops that limit up position. 238 also positions the rear upper gap between glass and seal. Best of luck with your project, and feel free to ask more. I've got the time.
  18. I'll send one for free, if used will work for you.
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