Jump to content

rstclark

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,022

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rstclark

  1. rstclark
    You need a good radiator to climb mountains when it’s 113 Guess you picked the right car for the job
  2. rstclark
    I really like the "Florida" car on the end Is it a 1600 ? Maybe a 1969 ?
  3. rstclark
    I also have rear door cards in black for late model pretty nice condition but not your color I can take them to Dave Varco for him to recover in the matching material and have him ship to you Looking for say $100
  4. rstclark
    I have a set of late seats 1976 complete that work with all plastics etc. But they are in California and shipping may be a killer. Can offer for $200 plus whatever shipping may be Will supply photos if your interested Rob
  5. rstclark
    You're not likely to find one already shortened Suggest you just find a 4 speed drive shaft and have it modified -- shortened and balanced locally for your exact needs
  6. rstclark
    2002s have been bringing pretty big prices on BAT and his year Of course they are quality cars for the most part . Iocally in California there seems to be a flood of 76’s at prices that seem high for even out of state where there are no smog requirements. Try to find a decent 75 or older for less than $ 10k and it’s slim pickings My impression is that prices are not falling but hollding steady Personnaly I think there is good reason to own appreciating assets and BMW 2002s fit the bill
  7. rstclark
    Perfect with the radar speed signs
  8. rstclark
    Had my speedo redone by NH Speedo and calibrated for rear end and tires. As I recall they asked me to flag the speedo cable and count the revolutions for 50 feet Easy to do. Just tape off 50 foot distance on the street and try it a few times to get a good average of the counts.
  9. rstclark
    Scoob So glad to hear of another 02er becoming aware of the virtues of vacuum advance Regarding the “why” I posted a response that describes the how and why in generic terms on page 21 of this thread I won’t go into it here just look it up. Vacuum advance seems to be under appreciated or completely unappreciated by the majority of gearheads. Go back to page 21 and see if the post gives you an overall concept understanding . Regarding getting a bunch of vacuum readings and trying to calculate a vacuum MAP, just take some of the settings in the early postings around page 4 or 5 and start from there. If you have the 123 tune with two curves, set a base on curve 1 then make changes to the vacuum curve on curve 2. Butt dyno each curve till you find the one that works best in you car. The vacuum curve is less critical then the mechanical curve I believe but it is an essential complement to get rid of bogs and hesitation Some people fight with carb jetting and carb tuning when the problem is really proper ignition timing using a combination of mechanical and advance curves It sounds like you are already in the ballpark. Good luck with your testing
  10. rstclark
    PS I have a 240 without mechanical speedo drive that I will sell cheap
  11. rstclark
    There has been one on San Diego Craigslist for some time now but the guy is asking $950 There may be more than one right now but again they are high priced Maybe worth a look
  12. rstclark
    Relax Drive it ! The old adage holds true “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it “
  13. rstclark
    Dick IMHO CD's prescription is a little fat for a stock motor especially on the secondary side. but then the old saying is "a fat motor is a happy motor" up to a point I think I would just start with the original jets and airs and emulsion tubes Then adjust after running it a little to solve any and bogs or stumbles. For my slightly modified motor with 9.5:1 pistons, 284 cam and shorty headers I'm happy with the following: P Idle 65, P Main 150, P Air Corrector 170 S Idle 55, S Main 145, S Air Corrector 160 Emulsion Tubes are F-50 This is probably a little rich for a stock motor but you could reduce the jets one setting at a time to see how your car performs My 2 cents
  14. rstclark
    If you have ever had a strut tube break loose while driving , trust me,you will take all precautions necessary to see that it doesn't happen again. Both of my cars have locktite and safety wire. Could be a safety overkill. It's like wearing a belt and suspenders but I'm pretty confident that the cars are safe The plyers and the wire are inexpensive. Once you get the hang of it you might safety wire all the rest of the suspension too
  15. rstclark
    Check your PM
  16. rstclark
    Yes I bought one. Its installed in the car, but since I live at the coast I've never completed it with dryer and electrical connections So cant say how well it works. The bracket fit fine The compressor was a Chinese knock off of a Denso wobble plate type. The condenser and fan were most likely Chinese too. The hoses need to be cut and crimped While I don't have operating experience, I expect it will be better than the original air conditioning when it was new Maybe I'll finish it this Summer if I get totally bored.
  17. rstclark
    yes should have marked it as sold
  18. rstclark
    Yeah the printout shows 8.6 degrees of caster Without any specific knowledge about the dynamics of alignment I would assume that caster is the least critical setting. For our cars, neither camber or caster are adjustable They are determined by where the the three top strut bolts mount to the body under the hood If the frame or unibody are bent or out of original placement then the camber and caster will not align to specs I’m going to use KMack adjustable top plates that allow the location of the top of the strut to be moveable giving the ability to adjust both camber and caster Most adjustable plates only adjust for camber particularly for track cars Makes me think that caster is not that critical, but again I have only limited appreciation alignment and the effects of changing the geometry of a front end
  19. rstclark
    John from you post it looks like the stock caster recommendation is 4 degrees Is that what your car has been running?
  20. rstclark
    Jeff thanks for your comments and suggestion about marking the KMack plates just to confirm. Max caster is in the 2 degree range ?
  21. rstclark
    Thanks Toby I will use your recommendations as a starting point. Not really trying for anything spectacular, but just trying to get both sides equal so the front end will center and drive straight As it is now, after Turing hard into a parking space the car wants to pull in that direction. At a dead stop if I crank the wheel in the opposite direction it will drive without any pull When the car is on the ground with weight on it, The tie rod hits the header slightly on the rack it clears but I don’t think it’s sticking or causing the pull after a hard crank either right or left Any ideas about what causes this ? Its a nuisance
  22. rstclark
    After rebuilding the front sub-frame,on my 74 base model the alignment shop says they can't get the camber and caster within specs The car is running IE Stage one springs and roll bars if that makes any difference. The wheel tire combo is 14x6 with 195x65x14s I have acquired pair of K Mack camber and caster adjustable plates to try to set the car within specifications. The question is , What are the stock settings for camber, caster and toe in ? The alignment shop computer prints the results as an E-21, making me wonder if they have the complete specs. This is a street car, no autocross, no track, so I believe the stock set up would be fine. Does anyone have experience or recommendations for tweeking the camber and toe in for the street ? The car is not going to be a daily driver and I consider all season 14 inch tires inexpensive, so a little abnormal tread wear is acceptable if there is an improvement in handling
  23. rstclark
    Sander check you PM
  24. rstclark
    Check you PM
  25. rstclark
    Do you still have the K-Mack adjustable camber/caster plates ? I would be interested
×
×
  • Create New...