Guys. I took a better look at my cool wiring and realized I have a resistance wire rather than a separate resister so there’s only 2 connections to the coil. Based on this is the red coil correct for this setup?
If I’m not mistaken the deceleration valve was indeed a pollution reduction item. So if all of the parts are missing I assume plugging open ports and tuning properly should result in a good running engine.
I bought several items from them. I had an issue with the strut bearing assemblies I purchased, bearings fell out of the assemblies. He sent replacement BMW units even before I returned the defective parts. Great service and good communication.
Had the same condition with mine. Can’t remember what I used to strip the goo but once clean I sanded the surface and flocked the inside. It looks like new and wears well. No more owners manual stuck to the glove box.
The reason I haven’t painted my car is the dents and dings. Nothing bad just a really nice 20 footer. If I invest 10large in paint I may think differently. The only time it’s sits is the NE winters.
It certainly looks repairable especially the nonstructural panels. I had a couple areas of rust repaired by a reputable restoration shop because I am not a competent welder either. The job was done right but $$$. I agree with others. If you're selling the car let the new owner deal with the repairs.
I had similar issues when I first got my 74. I checked and chased the issue and finally pulled all the vacuum related hoses and replaced with new and verified that all were plumbed correctly. No issues since.
When I rebuilt mine I only used new brake fluid as the lubricant. The key is to be sure that the piston is absolutely aligned with the bore. There isn't much clearance and if it is not aligned could bind when trying to insert.