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sirius815

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Everything posted by sirius815

  1. That last bolt is definitely a pain in the arse, but luckily I have small hands - not too bad
  2. Do you have a set of washer nozzles? Ben K.
  3. More updates are on the blog page. Got the 56mm radiator in today!
  4. The radiator finally came in - the add said 50mm core, but after purchase, the supplier contacted me saying they only had 56mm cores. So after pondering for a while, I acknowledged the message and decided to go ahead and have them build one with the 56mm core. Wow that sucks deep!! So how does it fit? After sawing off the front ~1/2" off the water pump shaft the sucker fits great! They also fitted me a M14 bung at the outlet for a temp sender/switch. Only downside(s) so far: The drain is a petcock - I wish it was a standard screw/bolt plut and it's a bit dirty on the inside.
  5. Quick question - where'd you get the bracket for the rushpower alternator?
  6. I don't think it really matters - at least if you relay the circuit so that the working current doesn't flow through the switch itself.
  7. I just pulled the pin on one of these and can/will post pictures when it comes in. As for how it performs - that will be quite a bit longer as I'm redoing the front half (ie most) of the engine harness as we speak.
  8. The awesome wife picked up the stud remover while I was at work and it worked like a charm - sort of. The bolt came loose, but is still a little stuck in the cover so I'll tap it out. Thanks for all the help guys! Ben K.
  9. Alrighty - got one out using the double nut method - but I think having the sit with PB blaster all night was a plus. I attempted it on the second one, however I couldn't get the second nut tightened down and began seriously straining the threads. I stopped before I eff'd up the bolt entirely. I then attempted the locking pliers, however the set I have is just a bit too large and won't grip the bolt well. So I'll have to end up getting a stud remover after all just for the sake of attempting to save the oil and head gaskets. I'll keep you guys posted. Ben K.
  10. I do feel that it's the two studs that are holding the cover on. I can see some light through the driver's side portion when I put pressure on the cover. The car is an ex-A/C car so that solves that mystery. I just tried the double nut method with no luck. I'll let them soak in some PB blaster, however I'm not sure how far it will penetrate. I'll likely pick up a Stud Puller/Extractor from Northern Tool tomorrow.
  11. Hi guys. I'm trying to take care of the timing cover gaskets and have a bit of a problem - well two actually. 1) This is my first '02 and when I took the water pump off, I thought nothing of the two studs that are left in the block (through the timing cover) - after looking through many threads, etc...I cannot find any picture or mention of having two studs for the water pump. Even realoem says that 3 90mm M8 bolts are to be used - no studs. This could lead to problem #2 2) The lower timing cover is completely stuck on there. How in the world can I get it off without damaging the head and oil pan gaskets? Thanks, Ben K.
  12. This needs to be sticky'd or put in the FAQ ASAP!! Super write-up - I was looking at getting alternate fan blades as well, but never had time to do so. Thanks a ton!!
  13. Overall - if the car is running - all voltage will be regulated as the alternator + battery form 1 system, however I would connect as close to the battery as possible - which would mean at roughly the ignition switch, or you could splice in at the fuse panel - doesn't really matter. Also, if I remember right, the Voltage gauge only has the one set of leads + and - (well that and the bulb). You can get power for the oil psi gauge there as well. Isn't 0-150 psi a bit wide range - might 0-100psi be better? I only as because in my e36, oil pressure is rarely ever above 60psi (possibly due to sensor location/connection). If the oil system never sees about ~80ish PSI, the 0-100psi sender+gauge would give you the best resolution. @Bill Williams - good to know!
  14. While that may be the top range of the gauge, it isn't most accurate at it's extremes. Mid-range is between ~70-110 degrees C (158-230*F) - perfect! And 24V isn't hard to get. The much better question is - what is the sensor needed for that gauge to function accurately??
  15. Very nicely done and good looking 2002 to boot!
  16. Thanks guys! I'll leave them be then. And yes - RainX is great!
  17. I think the stock BMW alternators (85A) are a common upgrade - I went with a rushpower alternator based on a review from a member here, but haven't even installed it yet. Looks promising though.
  18. I've been looking for options to replace the stock nozzles to something a bit more low profile. I found a small set on ebay from China and one from a vintage ford, however I don't want to pull the trigger on any of these before inquiring here. Thanks, Ben K.
  19. That'd be awesome! Thanks a lot! I'll check my driver's side tonight if I get the chance - I believe it's a goner.
  20. Found a better (much cheaper source) http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exec/product_id/3597/category_id/120/search_year/1980/search_model/9 I would just call to make sure it's in stock. Here's the part number: 61 31 1 356 585
  21. http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=61%2031%201%20356%20585&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googlebase&utm_source=61%2031%201%20356%20585&gclid=CMGRnMu0lrYCFRMZnQodSVYAeg That's the closest one I found - what a price! EDIT: I personally like the pull type better visually - such as from an E12/24
  22. Are you willing to part with those? If so, I'm sure Senna27 will have first dibs - I'll take left overs Ben K.
  23. I am looking for some as well! Albeit not actively.
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