sirius815

So I'm back from training and have started painting the engine bay. Rust converter has been applied (I tried to get as much off with sanding as I could) along with the first coats of primer. Tomorrow is sanding and hopefully the last coat of primer. Perhaps paint on Saturday if I have the time - probably Sunday though. Also got a hold of a Stahl Longtube header off a member here - not sure of the tube dimensions though. Ben K.

Progress has been pretty slow. Between school work and teaching my son math, there's been little time. The car's now up on jack stands and the kickpanels don't look pretty - hopefully I can find a competent welder/fabricator... The battery tray is out and the brake master cylinder and booster are on their way out so that I can continue sanding an then doing some of the needed rust covering. The battery tray and crank pulley are going to the powdercoater along with the driver's side headlight bucket for media blasting. After all that, I'll still need to wait on the d@mn timing cover gaskets - without them I won't be able to put the radiator and the alternator in. I can probably slowly get started on wiring things up after the painting's done. Wouldn't want to ruin the brand new wiring In other news, it seems my brother has taken on his own project - a 2002 4.0L Wrangler - stick shift. Maybe I'm starting to rub off on my family members. Ben K.

I've added a references page for little bits and pieces that I've found - just the coil wiring made simple and the wiring for the fuse panel thanks to you guys here at bmw2002faq.com. Additionally, I have added a parts page to try and keep track of everything that I've bought for it along with part numbers and sources. Cheers, Ben K.

After much browsing, I have decided to keep the stock fuse panel it is a bit of a pain to find real estate under the dash and I think keeping the stock look and functionality is a big plus. I will be rewiring/redesignating fuse positions the fuse panel (ie changing fuse designations), but will create a wiring diagram reflecting the changes - a great thing to have when troubleshooting later. The only difficulty of using the stock panel was the lack of a bus bar, so I luckily found this. It should fit underneath the fuse panel fairly well, or I'll place it just below the hole in the engine compartment and run the 8 feeds to the fuse panel. All loads will be relayed using micro relays which can handle loads up to 30 Amps, although 25A units are more readily available. Additionally, the biggest fuse on the stock panel is 16A, so I will be okay. I don't think I will end up using anything over that size and keep all fuses at 16A and consolidating a few loads freeing up two circuits for the addition of fogs lights and the electric fan. I may run two separate relay "boxes" so that I can keep my wire runs shorter. I will just have to find a good location to mount a small box - I don't want the relays exposed. Additionally, I think I may use two firewall/bulkhead connectors (such as this one) to run wiring into the passenger compartment just to clean things up a little bit. I'll have to check on prices for similar ones before making a commitment. Ben K. Sorry the hyperlinks didn't follow through.

Hey guys - quick update: I started a blog @ my2002build.blog.com and of course on here @ http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,979121/#979121 There's been a lot of planning/part buying going on and sadly (well I'm proud to be able to help those in need - it's been nice to put our company's capabilities to good use here in the States instead of overseas) I've been in the NE for Hurricane Sandy Relief efforts for the pasts two weeks so no work has actually been getting done. Ben K.

Today was a well earned day off and while I am not to put hands on, I have been going over the wiring in my head and made quite a few sketches so far, but nothing too concrete as I'm still waiting on the alternator to arrive. The alternator is said to come with the wiring and fuse already so I'll have to see what gauge Rush Power Systems send/recommends. From there, I'll use the same gauge (maybe #4 AWG) and run a ground from the alternator to the engine, from the engine to the chassis, and chassis to battery. The new starter which came in yesterday (I think?) will probably be wired with 4 AWG as well since I'll have it available or go to #2. I will probably do the starter connection at the positive terminal block from an e36 that I'm putting in. I may run the alternator to that block as well. The connection from the battery to that block will be fused (200A) running 1/0AWG. A 4AWG run will be made to the amplifiers in the trunk and to the new fuse panel. A 10AWG run will be for the electric fan up front - it will be relayed (of course) via the temperature sender that I'm putting in. This connection will be directly from the battery bus and not switched so the electric fan can run even if the car is off. I may change this as the switch may not "disable" in an adequate amount of time and end up killing the battery. In this case, I will run a switched wire (probably from the acc bus) to the front for the switch. A tricky part will be whether to relay the acc and ign buses or not. I will have to see what relay scheme I want to create. The whole point is that I no longer want large amounts of current running through the ignition switch. I would rather use a bunch of solid state relays (rated @ 10A) to do my switching and only run the trigger current through the ignition switch. I'm still working on that one.

This is more or less for me to keep track of part numbers and for any of you that’d like to order the same ones. Ambient Temp Gauge w/sensor - A2C53210847-K Oil Psi Gauge (0-150PSI) - A2C53191736-S along with 360-023 sender (7 PSI alarm) Oil Temp Gauge (100-250*F) - A2C53413386-S with 323-099 sender (217+/- alarm) I will be using the black triangular bezel for the gauges (sadly sold separately - A2C53186024-S). Additionally, I am chose these gauges due to having the additional alarm light. The senders were chosen based on the alarm values. I’m comfortable with pressures down to 7 PSI and coolant should be okay up to 222 degrees before doing damage, especially for the oil. I keep a watchful eye on the water temp gauge which from what I read is pretty accurate – it’s probably a more common indicator of imminent danger. If I do end up ever reaching that temp, I’ll add in an oil cooler.

Well guys, I decided this morning to start up a blog documenting what will be going on with our new 2002 - http://my2002build.blog.com/ I will try to keep this updated as well. Ben K. So this is the official start to our 1973 BMW 2002 build. I’m hoping to keep things updated with progress, part numbers, and other great infos. BMW2002FAQ.com has been a huge point of reference for me so far and I encourage those interested in 2002s and other vintage BMWs to go and check it out – lots of great people on the there with a wealth of knowledge and parts galore! Scarlet was purchases through ebay (doh!) in the hopes of getting a nice daily driver for the missus and save on some gas from her VW Touareg V8. A few many thousand later, along with way too many phone calls to the shipping company, and some nice chats with the seller, she finally arrived – with a drained battery during a down pour! Let the problems begin… Scarlet has her issues: no heater fan, no high beam, no windshield washer, leaking timing covers, incredibly dirty engine bay, leaky driver’s side kickpanel, three small rust holes on the passenger side floor board, and a cracking handbrake mount, left over old A/C parts, a rats nest or wiring, an amount of zipties that will make your cringe, the odometer doesn’t work, the front seats need some help…and the engine fan decided to eat the radiator! The decision was made to just completely (well almost) do her up with lots of new goodies! Here’s the plan: New timing gaskets, clean engine bay, clean up the engine bay wiring harness, rewire most of the car, fix ALL the broken things, get rid of the HID lowbeams, add some vibration damping and sound insulation under the carpet, put in a new stereo, add fancy gauges, new engine mounts, transmission mounts, shifter linkage and stuff… That should just about do it! Planning the future… I guess a more detailed plan is in order Engine modifications will remain few, but the engine compartment will be gone through thoroughly: – Overall cleaning/de-greasing – New timing cover gaskets – New spark plugs (NGK BP6ES – 7333 gaped to ~.026) – complete – New spark plug wires (8mm Silicons from Ireland Engineering) – Keep the previous owners Bosch Blue coil* (9220081083 or 02211190271) – Remove smog equipment – New alternator (150A from Rush Power Systems – they also supply the needed bracket) – E36 Positive Terminal Post – Littelfuse Fuse Holder 298900 (3x to protect fuse panel, amplifiers, and battery) – Tie together chassis grounds (probably with 8 gauge – don’t trust the old connections) – New starter (I think it’s from a S14 – Bosch SR441X from Summit Racing) – Put on new engine, alternator, and chassis grounds (O AWG) – Replace all the old crusty wiring and reroute to look pretty – Remove mechanical fan and replace with 12″ electric pusher fan – Install a thermostatic switch from an E36 – it has ~164 and 195 degree outputs (use IEs adapter) – Replace the radiator (PO had an E21 radiator installed – I have a “new” tested E21 rad ready to go in with better mounts to boot – New waterpump and thermostat – Neolites H4 headlights with Ceramic Connectors – Rewire foglights The interior will get a few add-ons: – Rebuild cluster – Redo the center console – Add VDO Onyx gauges (Oil PSI, Oil Temp, and maybe outside temp?) – Add a wideband gauge (will likely go in the glove box and used for tuning only) – Subaru Legacy center cubby – Pioneer DEH-80PRS headunit – Zapco 360.4 and 1100.1 DC Reference Amps – 2x MB Quart 12s – PWE302 (the wife said to save money use the ones I already had sitting in the closet ) – Usher 7″ midbassers (not sure of the install yet) – New fuse box – Relay cluster (might go PLC controlled) – Add in some rare BMW foglight switch (not sure which one yet) I think that’s about everything. I may have missed some things but that should do it. *The blue coil has an internal resistor so the stock external one (whether the ceramic type or the hidden “in-wire” type) is not required. Some say the “Black”/stock coil with resistor and startup bypass circuit is better for more spark energy during startup, but I haven’t experienced any problems with just the “Blue” coil.

If you have good spark - and obviously you're getting air - fuel is the last thing. 1) check your timing with a timing light (not that I have experience in that) 2) check the gap on your plugs and make sure the plugs are in good condition and 3) make sure your carb is tuned correctly - what carb do you have? I want to say that there is a tuning guide here on the FAQs.

Run a wire to the coil for power (switched power that is) then run a wire to the dizzy and to the tach. I can't remember the exact numbers - hold on.. found this the other day since I'm doing the same thing - http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,349023/highlight,/sid,b98d0b73ab1120147b3e501b822df260/ EDIT: If you are running a "blue" coil you can/should omit the relay and resistor wiring.

Guess I'll have to order a 911 motor. Thanks for trying though!

Well guys - the blower is dead. I'll be getting another from a generous forum member. That'll be fun. In the mean time, it seems that I have a good 'ol lower timing cover leak, which I first feared might have been a head gasket. What do you guys think? Also - I believe that I can get rid of this as it no longer has any vacuum lines attached to it: One more thing - any thoughts on where this wire could go? The air temp sensor for the cold start is hooked up (between cyl 3&4 intake runners) - the electrical connection is connected to the carb as visible in the picture. So where could this go? Maybe the old dashpot? I think I may have answered my own question here Thanks guys! Ben K. EDIT: Last thing - is the vacuum line for the timing adv/retard supposed to be connected directly to the intake or is it supposed to get connected to the Weber 32/36 carb? I've heard both?

Hey guys - anybody have a trunk lock and key? My car didn't come with the d@mn key!! Thanks, Ben K.

So I did more digging about the blower motor. Is this really a negatively switched system? A wiring diagram I found shows the fan switch supplied with +12V, followed by switching and sending the voltage to the appropriate resistor for each fan speed, then to ground after the motor. What I have found on my car is that the fan switch seems to be switching AFTER the motor. IE - the motor receives the +12V and the switch grounds out which ever resistor goes to the speed currently selected. Seems odd to me to do it that way, but it should work. Additionally, the blower motor does receive 12V on the green/brown wire. I believe however that the motor is indeed blown - I'll have to go back and double check again another day - my head hurts from laying upside down in the car and resting my head on the transmission tunnel. Cheers, Ben K.

I have yet to do a long highway driver, however I don't feel that it's too terrible. Right now there is zero insulation underneath the carpet, so I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for sharing!