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2joejoe2

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Everything posted by 2joejoe2

  1. I know this is far fetched... I've been wanting to get my hands on a cartech blow through turbo set up for a long time. I know there are a few around...maybe someone has one just collecting dust on a shelf! ...I dunno...just putting it out there
  2. Hm.... the engine will probably still sit straight in the car because the rear tranny mount is forcing it to. Also if both sides are out the same amount the front subframe is most likely sitting square in the car...the dif mount also has enough play to account for the engine being more forward. You maybe did it this way.......I have heard that you can take pretty accurate frame measurements using a plumb-bob center of each point and transferring the marks to tape on the floor...you then pull the car out an measure the tick marks on the tape If it were my car I would take it to a frame shop and have them confirm the measurements. I would think it would be pretty easy to mess up by 5mm even using the plumb-bob method
  3. The car will still drive straight just one wheel will be more forward than the other lol! did you measure at the chassis alignment points? There is an image in the post below that shows were to take the measurements
  4. Im running exip 15x7 et25 mesh wheels. I got them from Ebay germany for 400$. They fit well but I had to roll my finders at my current ride height The quality seems good. The style inst necessarily my first choice but the price was right
  5. While it does look like the PO did a decent job... I don't see that plate adding much strength to the point that typically cracks which, in my case was just above the top of the plate. I would still weld some 3mm plate to the steering box side of the mount. and maybe some along the sides of the mount for good measure.
  6. How about the plate bracket that IE sells for roundies http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-body-chassis/02plateholder.html
  7. lots of discussion/ argument on this. I went with dave varco from Aardvark Racing he makes all of his 5spd swap drive shafts to the same length (it fits perfect) Others like to put the car together and measure exact length. there is good logic for both ways of doing it.
  8. YES!!! i wanted to buy a set but I couldnt find a set that was in my price range.
  9. So......if you are willing to get crafty you can modify the 5sp shift knob....takes a bit of work.....pull off the aluminum damped portion of the lever....this involves a lot prying and swearing. Then get some .75 aluminum stock...drill one end to slide over the steel portion of of the 5 speed lever....drill and tap the side for some set screws to keep it from spinning. then turn down the other side and thread it to 15X1.5mm (thread size for bmw screw on shift knobs)....I can snag some pics of my set up if you are interested
  10. I believe the stepped ones are from an early 02 and the strait ones are from the later 02s......or it might be the oposite....in any case the earlier CVs look different than the later ones, but they do fit the same.....this I do know
  11. I have found that the welds on top off the shock towers very quite a bit..... I would try to find a way to mount it on the trunk floor. Or maybe shim it up with some .125 or .25 stock ...but either way find a way to support the battery portion so its not just hanging there.
  12. If you flip your sub frame mounts you will probably be good. Only reason Im doing the camber mods is because Im going pretty low and I had to pull out the sub frame to mod my trailing arms for coil overs....so why not.
  13. Yeah thats a little intense for a street car.....and I dont feel like replacing rod ends every couple years.. I think I am going to weld on the camber tabs then install the trailing arm. I will adjust the camber to 3/4 of the way up its travel range and then I will see how misaligned the outer trailing arm mounts are. The inside of the outer mount should be a little high....So I will weld that tab a little higher than the hole factory hole.....I am trying to achieve a straight line from the inside trailing arm mounts to the outside mounts the 3/4 of the way up on the camber is kind of arbitrary but its approximately were I think I will be adjusting my camber to Pictures to follow.
  14. John.....I've wondered about that....the misalignment between the two pivot points does have to put a bit of stress on the bushings as well as the control arms
  15. So, Toby are you saying that you made yours so that the large eccentric washer is keyed to spin with the bolt?
  16. So, I'm rebuilding my rear suspension I ordered the IE rear camber and toe kit.....IE uses a BMW style bolt for the toe kit (bottom) and a custom bolt (top) for the camber kit.......... On the OEM style bolt the eccentric washer turns with the eccentric bolt.....While on the camber kit the eccentric washer is not keyed to turn with the bolt... I see this as a big problem. I was expecting the washer to have a D shaped hole with a flat spot milled in the bolt to keep the eccentric washer in alignment with the eccentric bolt. for a hundred bucks I would expect something a little better.....should of made my own. Is this normal? If so how do you get the the washer and the bolt lined up? I would call IE but they are closed and I want to know what you guys think
  17. Your Phone back-feeding onto the cars 12v system is pretty much impossible. Most 12v to USB adapters have built in diodes to prevent this. Also it is hard to back feed through the 12v to 5 volt dc regulator. However There is a possibility that if the your Aux 12 volt had died the phone could be powering the Usb adapters internal passive components such as the internal regulator's voltage set point resistors and possibly the status LED. the linked website shows a basic elcheapo usb adaptor schematic http://www.next.gr/circuits/usb-car-charger-adapter-circuit-design-l25306.html I am thinking from what you said you may have an intermittent "switched" power wire coming from the ignition.....I had this issue it turned out to be a loose female spade connector on the ignition switch.
  18. I've been tossing around the Idea of building my own budget ish rear coil overs using a sleeve kit like this http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Performance/049/ALL64143/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000858937&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-224375369591:pla-190198847111&ref=paid&brand=&channel=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQiAl4TGBRDhgvmikdHPsdABEiQAtBcc8BZjUxRbtefzhZPEBLpmpIWbjqHIWCkBWkfmwLyBTqIaAoYg8P8HAQ I would have to turn a groove in the shock body for the cir-clip I Know the lotus guys do it http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f91/bilstein-coil-over-sleeve-kit-41211/index2.html has anyone here done this? I have my car at ~ 2.5 in lower than stock would I need to get shorter shocks......Ive heard about the mustang Fox body rear shocks being used in the rear... Thoughts?
  19. Thanks for the reply Toby, I ended up getting the rear pinion race out with the baffle in place....When tearing the diff apart it looked like the front pinion bearing was not getting enough oil...it was pretty burnt Im wondering if removing the baffle would help oil flow to the front bearing.?
  20. Im rebuilding my E21 LSD (new bearings and seals) .......I noticed in Ace Andrew's write up that he removes/ destroys the pinion baffle in order to remove the rear pinion race....I don't see anywhere in the write up him replacing it. Is it necessary? From what I have seen on Maximilian the part isn't even available so, I don't want to destroy it if it is needed
  21. Ok thanks for the input guys... Im an engineer so, I have the tendency to way over think things. lol
  22. hey I'm in the process of swapping over to the VW rear disc set up. I got the recommended vw mk1 golf. My worry is that the center bore of the disc hat is bigger than the Bmw 2002 hub center portion.....meaning that its the suds that keep this thing aligned. Should I be concerned by this? I was thinking I could turn down the hubs precisely fit into the rotor hat.........................am I overthinking this?
  23. Sweet!! I have the maturity of 12 year old so I think its awesome!
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