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2joejoe2

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Everything posted by 2joejoe2

  1. 2joejoe2
    that is just what I am looking for! I searched for a leather one and couldn't find anything
  2. 2joejoe2
    So now that I have the transmission (getrag245) in I am having issues with the console area. I used the IE shift platform with their short shift lever. It actually moves the lever further back in the car than the original lever. When I put on the square rubber shift boot it causes the trans to pop out of gear in second and fourth......its just way too tight. I have read about ppl making the shift hole larger and using the E30 boot. Before try to make some thing work I would like to know what everyone else is doing? Is there an off the shelf fix? I called IE and they suggested bending the lever...not gonna happen.....I actually like the new location.
  3. 2joejoe2
    What are u guys using for shift boots? My rubber boot is too stiff....imagine that
  4. 2joejoe2
    Nice part but it does look a pinch too tight. what happens if you break a mount does it snap off the master or the slave cylinder? maybe its just the angle of the photo you took
  5. 2joejoe2
    when I did mine I used the factory 2002 reservoir. I do recall having to get different grommets for the top of the master cylinder. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/60070-for-e12-brake-master-cylinder-users/
  6. 2joejoe2
    I think I got the trans where I like it. It's about 7mm from the left tunnel trans mount. I was able to flip the slave cylinder with a modified 13mm box wrench. To make the shift tower level I just spaced off the one side with washers....a little gheto I know.
  7. 2joejoe2
    Im guessing an air leak somewhere. make sure all the vac ports on carb and intake are plugged or running to the appropriate place. I have had luck in the past spraying carb cleaner on the intake to check for leaks. Also make sure your choke is not turning on or sticking. I know if the chokes stick on my mikuni carbs the engine revs with no throttle
  8. 2joejoe2
    From reading the link Rob S posted I found out the slave cylinder is supposed to mount with the nipple facing down....... Hopefully I can flip it with the tranny in the car!
  9. 2joejoe2
    From reading the link Rob S posted I found out the slave cylinder is supposed to mount with the nipple facing down....... Hopefully I can flip it with the tranny in the car!
  10. 2joejoe2
    Thanks for all the replies! this info really helps. I am using the U shaped bracket that uses the 4speed mounting tabs. maybe I will go with the other version if I cant enough clearance
  11. 2joejoe2
    As you can see the angle here.
  12. 2joejoe2
    Well if the bottom of the tranny is supposed to be level from right to left then the shift tower bolts will never be level. Stole this pic online....but it's exactly like mine. Tranny wants go to drivers side and you can see the angle in the shift tower
  13. 2joejoe2
    Ok thank mlytle
  14. 2joejoe2
    I made plenty of room for the slave cylinder. It's the rear of the trans that's hitting the drivers side trans mount. ...yes starting with 4speed.
  15. 2joejoe2
    Hi, I finally got around to installing my 5speed getrag 245. I am having some issues with the trans sitting off center in the car. Right now the trans wants to sit against the drivers side tunnel. It actually rubs on the trans mount on the tunnel. if I persuade the tranny over to the passenger side the output shaft and shift tower are off center. toward the passenger side. Is this normal? Also I am having issues with the Ie shift tower. It seems that the two mounting holes on the 245 trans are not the same height from the bottom of the trans up. The mounting hole on the passenger side of the trans is actually a bit lower than the one on the driver side. So, this means the shift tower sits on an angle down toward the passenger side. Is this normal? it drives me nuts. I feel like the IE shift platform should accommodate for this angle.
  16. 2joejoe2
    those are for rebuilding the rear subframe mounts
  17. 2joejoe2
    I'll take it
  18. 2joejoe2
    I was going to say that I would support the car under the frame rails and under the front sub frame before cutting the metal out. This will keep car from sagging
  19. 2joejoe2
    That is the exact write up I referenced when I did mine
  20. 2joejoe2

    bmw wheels

    2joejoe2 replied to m-tuner's topic in Miscellaneous

    How much for rear quarters?
  21. 2joejoe2
    Look at w&n http://wallothnesch.com/ They have really nice patch panels for the a pillars
  22. 2joejoe2
    -5 speed swap - add flex to exhaust - add wide band o2 sensor and add gauge to console - cut out and delete Frankensteined spare tire well -rejet carbs with proper non drilled out jets - install retro sound head unit
  23. 2joejoe2
    16 gauge bent up on a brake..seams to really help
  24. 2joejoe2
    You can order a door pillar patch for that from w&n. I had similar rust and used the patch when doing my car
  25. 2joejoe2
    I ended up finding a local set of mahles dirt cheep so I guess I'm gonna pass on the gold weaves
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